Rain & no glass in doors for gutted car
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Cincinnati
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Rain & no glass in doors for gutted car
So, if I gut a car and remove the glass in the door because of a nascar style cage in the door, what are my choices for dealing with weather between days at the track?
--plastic window inserts, which I heard are not great
--park car under tent
--reload car in enclosed trailer each night
--anything else?
Of course this doesn't solve my problems with transportation, given that I have an open trailer.....
--plastic window inserts, which I heard are not great
--park car under tent
--reload car in enclosed trailer each night
--anything else?
Of course this doesn't solve my problems with transportation, given that I have an open trailer.....
#2
Rennlist Member
Asking Mooty as we speak about covering windowless if towing when rain. Let u know. If a 2 dayer I just remove my qr steering and e-disconnect and any data acquisition or lap timing device off my car. Wo mooty's advice I say thick guage tarp cut to wee bit over window dimensions and tape it down if rain is in the equation. Never had a problem leaving it overnite at the track as long as portable stuff(data/laptimer) are removed. Mike
#5
I am only installing NASCAR bar on drivers side so only removing drivers window. I purchased a sheet of scratch resistant polycarbonate 24 inches x 36 inches x 1/8 inch thick (McMaster Carr). Then traced the OEM window. Then I inserted into the original window gap making sure to push into upper trim. I am fabricating a bracket to secure the bottom (yet to complete this). Fitment is pretty good so far. I will secure bracket inside the door so that if I park the car it will not be as easy to enter the car without key or FOB. I also have an open trailer and this is what my shop suggested. If I do not figure out the bracket they will complete and I will post pictures once all is done.
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#8
Racer
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Location: Cincinnati
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Any tips on stripping the car yourself?
#9
Rennlist Member
I am only installing NASCAR bar on drivers side so only removing drivers window. I purchased a sheet of scratch resistant polycarbonate 24 inches x 36 inches x 1/8 inch thick (McMaster Carr). Then traced the OEM window. Then I inserted into the original window gap making sure to push into upper trim. I am fabricating a bracket to secure the bottom (yet to complete this). Fitment is pretty good so far. I will secure bracket inside the door so that if I park the car it will not be as easy to enter the car without key or FOB. I also have an open trailer and this is what my shop suggested. If I do not figure out the bracket they will complete and I will post pictures once all is done.
#11
It is not the cost of doing the passenger side rather losing the ability to close up the window to protect from the elements. Stripping was pretty easy, take your time. I used silver sharpie to mark the backside with general description. I was lucky to sell to someone local who wanted to change interior color to black. Once you remove the stuff takes up a lot of space. Taking car in next week for cage. Some pictures including window with protective film.
Steve
Steve
#14
Looking at supporting at bottom. To remove loosen support unbolt and slide out entire polycarbonate window. To close the door just tuck top into rubber guides. This is what shop explained to me. I have seen others with enclosed trailer with simple hole in two places at bottom of window with bolt that sits on bottom rubber rail. This is ok for at the track but I need something to hold in place when open trailering. Hope this makes sense.
Steve
Steve