jellonailer

Whats the trick to get camber to 8? I'm at 9 and can't get anymore out of it, shims or no shims.

Is this when the strut needs to be turned? Or should I search this site for the answer that been posted before. Thx

cfjan

Do you mean the caster??

996FLT6

Rotate struts plus shims. Mike

jellonailer

Duh, yes, caster. Sorry. Title fixed

NXI20

You have 2 options:

1) Install the RSR-style adjustable thrust arms; GMG make a nice version

http://www.gmgracing.com/store/index...hrust-arm.html

2) Press out the factory bushes in the bottom arm & install adjustable solid bushes. This is a good first step if you want to save money. The 2 products below are basically identical & I can't explain why there is such a massive price difference...

http://www.gmgracing.com/store/index...shing-kit.html
http://rss.rpmware.com/rss/rss_suspe.../i-498439.aspx

I've used all 3 of these products & for $100, I'd just go with the RSS pucks as an easy solution to allow castor adjustment.

The solid pucks & the RSR thrust arm are an awesome combination if you want to run slicks though.

Number54

How exactly is this done? Remove top bolts, then rotate clockwise/counterclockwise? Does the shock have to come out for the job?

My alignment settings are okay but too many shims and I am rubbing in front with just 235s. I'm tempted to rotate and shim less just to eliminate the rubbing.

Thanks.

cfjan

The RSS for $100 is for 1 only, I assume, while the other brand = a set of 4..

If you have 9 degree caster, and does not have major rubbing, that is probably fine.. more stability.

jellonailer

Number54 - Thats exactly the issue.

Serge944

More caster is preferable. Personally, I'll take a little rubbing in exchange for better performance.

Eventually the liners will be "rubbed in" and you won't hear it anymore.

Number54

^^^ I rub the metal inside part of the fender. Makes nice shreds at the side of the tire.

powdrhound

One very easy solution is to flip your LCAs from side to side on your car and then use the off center hole on the LCA for your thrust arm. In other words, install your LCAs so that the off center hole is pointing towards the front of the car and bolt your thrust arm there. This effectively makes your thrust arm longer "pushing" your LCA back and thus reduces your caster. My bet is that you added shims and have your thrust arm mounted on center of your LCA.

Here is a picture of the right LCA mounted on the left side of the car and bolting the thrust arm to the forward off center hole. I'm running 7mm of shims per side.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/87731073@N06/9179302910/http://www.flickr.com/photos/87731073@N06/9179302910/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/87731073@N06/, on Flickr

NXI20

The RSS page does say "Set of 4"

NXI20

You need to remove the top mount, remove the 3 studs and refit them 120 degrees further round the mount. This will allow you to go from about 2 degrees to over 4 degrees of camber without shims. You can't go below about 2 degrees with the top mounts set like this.

v12man

Shock does not have to come out completely - top only - but you must undo the sway bar and drop the wheel down as far as possible - it is pretty tight to get the top mount out completely, and you may have to compress the spring a bit too.

You need to press out the 3 bolts and move them to the other holes in the mount - vice and socket as a press works fine.

You should be able to get stock caster and about -3degees per side with no shims after rotating the mounts.

cfjan

Probably meant, you will need 4 of them for your car..

If it is $100 for a set of 4, that would be very cheap then.. I'd be really surprised.. !

I have the ones from Tarett Engineering, and they are $125 EACH!

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...5#ITEM_3046675