Lwfw worth it on gt2
03-19-2013, 08:41 PM
#33
Hi guys, a quick update on this. I decided to go with the 996cup/gt2 Rs/Rs 4.0 super light flywheel. I have all the parts now and will be fitting it to the engine soon.
I'll report my findings as soon as my car is done and back together hopefully in time for mid may.
I'll report my findings as soon as my car is done and back together hopefully in time for mid may.
03-20-2013, 09:11 AM
#35
Three Wheelin'
03-20-2013, 06:28 PM
#36
03-26-2013, 09:23 AM
#37
Instructor
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
GT2rainge - I have fitted a lwfw in my 997 gt2 and has been running for the past 2 years and my car is has about 51km and most of the time has been spirited driving and on track (about 30km on the lwfw). I wanted to fit the 964/4.0 lwfw which is about 8lbs but that wasnt recommended from sachs for some reason which i cant recall to be honest and i also never fitted the gt3 crank pully as i was told it was unnecessary from my tuner as its only recommended for high revving cars. You may want to look into that.
The benefits for the lwfw was really noticeable and i highly recommended it for track use. Keep us posted after fitting your lwfw.
Thanks
The benefits for the lwfw was really noticeable and i highly recommended it for track use. Keep us posted after fitting your lwfw.
Thanks
03-26-2013, 03:11 PM
#38
Race Car
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: With A Manual Transmission
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I have run a true cup car clutch (5.5") and flywheel in my car for just under the last year 996 Turbo. The problem with the really light clutches is that since a lot on the Turbo cars is run off of vacuum/boost pressure, the car tries to keep the system pressurized to reduce lag. The result is that the car/ecu is not comfortable with rapid drops in RPMS.
I had all kinds of misfire codes, but that was due to the crank sensor not seeing the teeth on the flywheel because they are so small (smaller than the street cars), and then also issues with the car stalling when clutching in if there was not an immediate blip. We tried a hole in the throttle body to help the system bleed pressure fast enough to keep up, but the car read that as a boost leak and wouldn't run, so we had to put the old one back in.
The good thing about my car is that as long as it drives and doesn't hurt the car, I don't care, because the cup clutch is FAST and my car is track only. If you drive on the street, you may encounter these issues. Turbo cars do not like rapid drops in RPMS.
I have since added inlet pipes which let the car breathe better and the stall issue has gone away, but it occasionally idles a bit rough and still throws some misfire codes (again, different flywheel)
If you encounter any of these problems, maybe this will help. I think you will be fine, and if not, helping the car breathe better should alleviate any issues you may encounter.
I had all kinds of misfire codes, but that was due to the crank sensor not seeing the teeth on the flywheel because they are so small (smaller than the street cars), and then also issues with the car stalling when clutching in if there was not an immediate blip. We tried a hole in the throttle body to help the system bleed pressure fast enough to keep up, but the car read that as a boost leak and wouldn't run, so we had to put the old one back in.
The good thing about my car is that as long as it drives and doesn't hurt the car, I don't care, because the cup clutch is FAST and my car is track only. If you drive on the street, you may encounter these issues. Turbo cars do not like rapid drops in RPMS.
I have since added inlet pipes which let the car breathe better and the stall issue has gone away, but it occasionally idles a bit rough and still throws some misfire codes (again, different flywheel)
If you encounter any of these problems, maybe this will help. I think you will be fine, and if not, helping the car breathe better should alleviate any issues you may encounter.
06-20-2013, 07:32 PM
#39
Hi guys, a small update on this. I've only just come to fit these parts and have noticed a problem with the crank pulley and wondered if anyone else has come across this.
The 996 Rs light pulley is smaller in diameter than my stock 996 gt2 pulley and also the locating dowl pin is a lot smaller on the Rs pulley.
I can only think this is due to my car having a different crank than a gt3 but don't know for sure.
My only fix I can see for this is to push out the pins and enlarge the hole on the Rs pulley to accept my original pulley pin but I'm not 100% sure this will work. I'm also unsure as to what effect the smaller pulley will have on the alternator and power steering pump.
Any advice and experience on this is greatly appreciated.
Neil
The 996 Rs light pulley is smaller in diameter than my stock 996 gt2 pulley and also the locating dowl pin is a lot smaller on the Rs pulley.
I can only think this is due to my car having a different crank than a gt3 but don't know for sure.
My only fix I can see for this is to push out the pins and enlarge the hole on the Rs pulley to accept my original pulley pin but I'm not 100% sure this will work. I'm also unsure as to what effect the smaller pulley will have on the alternator and power steering pump.
Any advice and experience on this is greatly appreciated.
Neil
06-20-2013, 09:03 PM
#41
I have the standard gt 2 pulley off my car, but there isn't a lightweight pulley version available to match the lwfw i have and the advice I've had is that its needed instead of a standard pulley. Apparantly there has been problems with standard pulleys coming loose on some cars with lwfw
