FS: '01 Porsche 996TT, Arctic Silver, 45K mi, GT2 Conv, UMW, Motons (>$35k in mods)
07-28-2012, 01:13 PM
#16
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Location: Austin, TX
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How much rwhp does a car like this make? Is it a good usable hp w/ no lag, etc...
Are they reliable modified as such?
And am I losing my mind or do you have 2 different kinds of wheels mounted up per side?
What size are those wheels and tires?
Thx.
Are they reliable modified as such?
And am I losing my mind or do you have 2 different kinds of wheels mounted up per side?
What size are those wheels and tires?
Thx.
07-30-2012, 07:37 PM
#17
See below.
Thanks! I know knucklehead is a very appropriate word! I don't know why we all spend so much damn money on these things...guess it keeps us sane 
And yes, definitely running different Fikse's on the left and right
How much rwhp does a car like this make? Is it a good usable hp w/ no lag, etc...
So on the power approximation, I would say that it is anywhere between 500-550 hp at the wheels and 550-600 hp at the crank. I have never had it on the dyno but have done quite a bit of research on this set up and that is about the range guys are putting down. A couple experienced drivers, with sensitive butt dynos, also felt that was a very reasonable estimate. MiKelly, who is pretty active on RL, used to have essentially the identical setup on his old Turbo. He put down 510hp and 532 ft-lbs to the wheels BEFORE going to UMW software, 5 bar FPR, and wastegate springs, all of which my car has. So I'm pretty confident my car puts down at least that much but in all likelihood, probably a bit more. You could PM him and see if he ever dyno'd it again after adding some of those supporting mods. Bottom line is the car is scary fast depending on what you've driven / ridden in before. It easily breaks the tires loose when you roll onto the boost in 2nd and sometimes 3rd. I personally don't think there is a better turbo setup for these cars if your goal is a good all around driver / track car. Yes, of course you can make more power (and alot more if you want to get crazy 
), but you get substantially more turbo lag and the power output / boost is like an on / off switch.
Are they reliable modified as such?
With a turbo setup such as they are just as reliable as stock in my opinion. To be honest I am pretty surprised with how reliable this car has been. Aside from wear and tear items such as brakes and tires, I really haven't had any other issues with the car aside from a front wheel bearing going bad and the voltage regulator in the alternator dying.
And am I losing my mind or do you have 2 different kinds of wheels mounted up per side?
Nope, you are not losing your mind
They are Fikse FM10s on one side and Fikse FM5s on the other. They are 3-piece wheels so they have the same barrels / lips side to side but just have different centers. Weight and offset are the same on both sides so there aren't any negative side effects in terms of handling.
What size are those wheels and tires?
Front are 18x9.5 with 245 Falkens and rear are 18x12 with 315 Falkens.
And yes, definitely running different Fikse's on the left and right
So on the power approximation, I would say that it is anywhere between 500-550 hp at the wheels and 550-600 hp at the crank. I have never had it on the dyno but have done quite a bit of research on this set up and that is about the range guys are putting down. A couple experienced drivers, with sensitive butt dynos
, also felt that was a very reasonable estimate. MiKelly, who is pretty active on RL, used to have essentially the identical setup on his old Turbo. He put down 510hp and 532 ft-lbs to the wheels BEFORE going to UMW software, 5 bar FPR, and wastegate springs, all of which my car has. So I'm pretty confident my car puts down at least that much but in all likelihood, probably a bit more. You could PM him and see if he ever dyno'd it again after adding some of those supporting mods. Bottom line is the car is scary fast depending on what you've driven / ridden in before. It easily breaks the tires loose when you roll onto the boost in 2nd and sometimes 3rd. I personally don't think there is a better turbo setup for these cars if your goal is a good all around driver / track car. Yes, of course you can make more power (and alot more if you want to get crazy ), but you get substantially more turbo lag and the power output / boost is like an on / off switch. Are they reliable modified as such?
With a turbo setup such as they are just as reliable as stock in my opinion. To be honest I am pretty surprised with how reliable this car has been. Aside from wear and tear items such as brakes and tires, I really haven't had any other issues with the car aside from a front wheel bearing going bad and the voltage regulator in the alternator dying.
And am I losing my mind or do you have 2 different kinds of wheels mounted up per side?
Nope, you are not losing your mind
They are Fikse FM10s on one side and Fikse FM5s on the other. They are 3-piece wheels so they have the same barrels / lips side to side but just have different centers. Weight and offset are the same on both sides so there aren't any negative side effects in terms of handling. What size are those wheels and tires?
Front are 18x9.5 with 245 Falkens and rear are 18x12 with 315 Falkens.
