PFC 01,06,or 08?
02-13-2012, 09:05 AM
#32
Race Car
06's and 08's intrigue me. If they really last as long as you guys state I can very well justify their cost. However I know a couple people who have run them on different platforms and didn't particularly care for the lack of bite that the pad has. Can anyone comment a little more on bite characteristics of them? PFC states they bite nearly as hard as 01's but real world accounts state otherwise.
02-13-2012, 09:28 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
06's bite about 90% as hard as the 01's, and modulate just as well. And frankly, this is better, because most drivers tend to over-brake with 01's anyway because they bite so hard. Plus the 06's last way longer & are much more benign to rotors. 08's are very close to 06's in bite, don't modulate quite as well (IMO), but last even longer.
02-13-2012, 04:04 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Intrigued as well.... I was running Pagid 19s/29s up front, and 15s in the back. Love the modulatio, but hated the bedding (dangerous on country roads!)
With PFCs, sounds like 06 up front and 01 in the back will be good for the 996 GT3. Correct?
What are you guys doing for rotors? I have been buying cup rotors for years... Should I look at Cayenne rotors up front, or even PFCs? Alcons were all the rage a few years back... I dunno...
Thanks,
-Blake
With PFCs, sounds like 06 up front and 01 in the back will be good for the 996 GT3. Correct?
What are you guys doing for rotors? I have been buying cup rotors for years... Should I look at Cayenne rotors up front, or even PFCs? Alcons were all the rage a few years back... I dunno...
Thanks,
-Blake
04-08-2012, 01:13 PM
#38
Racer
01's all the way around with stoptech slotted up front and 7GT3 350mm drilled in the rear. Great set up and could stop a freight train if needed and I find modulation and release are sooooo easy with them. I agree that for most, the 06 front and 01 rear might be the best for all. For very capable drivers, 01 at all 4 corners gives you the best possible braking ability IMO.
04-09-2012, 01:03 AM
#39
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I currently run Pagid Blacks on my 944S2 and am convinced that I never seem to bed them in correctly.
I'm thinking of trying out PFC 97 (the only PFC pads available for my car) but would like to avoid replacing the rotors unless I have to as they're plenty thick.
Can I just remove the Pagids and pop in the PFCs, or is there something else I'd need to do?
Thanks.
Karl.
I'm thinking of trying out PFC 97 (the only PFC pads available for my car) but would like to avoid replacing the rotors unless I have to as they're plenty thick.
Can I just remove the Pagids and pop in the PFCs, or is there something else I'd need to do?
Thanks.
Karl.
Last edited by wjk_glynn; 04-09-2012 at 02:01 AM.
04-09-2012, 02:08 AM
#40
Racer
You will want to "clean" the rotors off before you make that kind of change. Those two materials will have a bit of a conflict and it is always best not to mix the materials from one pad to another. If your rotors are anywhere close to needing to be replaced, that is best. Otherwise, consider a resurfacing...or at least a deep scrubbing.
04-09-2012, 11:38 AM
#41
Drifting
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cary NC
Posts: 3,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Regardless of capability (cracka, pleeze), the 01s will stop a dump truck, and IME chew up rotors; choose your fluid accordingly.
I disagree; the cold track pads with easily scrape off any other existing pad material, but don't take my word for it.
(link)
(link)
Bedding New Performance Friction Brake Pads
Motorsport
If the discs were previously being used with Performance Friction pads, then the bedding procedure will be achieved quickly with new PFC pads. If the discs were previously bedded using a different manufacturer's pads then the process will take slightly longer. Again, with brake cooling ducts open and fully functional, perform the following procedures.
On the first lap, perform several snubs with progressively higher pedal pressure and braking force and from higher speeds. You will feel the effectiveness of the brakes increase with each successive brake application. This should take 6 to 10 snubs per lap and is usually completed in one or two laps. If non-PFC friction materials were previously run on the discs then this procedure could take as many as three to five laps. This is because the non-PFC friction material transfer layer must first be cleaned from the disc and then a fresh layer must be imparted to the disc.
Running additional laps is the best way to accomplish the new transfer layer and, due to the higher surface temperatures, will assure a complete removal of the old friction materials from the disc. Braking effectiveness should be excellent at this point and the car can be driven normally.
NOTE: Sanding/machine grinding the discs will not decrease the bedding time. Whenever new Performance Friction pads are installed, the pads require very little cool down time. Usually the time spent taking tyre temperatures and a debriefing with the driver is sufficient.
Motorsport
If the discs were previously being used with Performance Friction pads, then the bedding procedure will be achieved quickly with new PFC pads. If the discs were previously bedded using a different manufacturer's pads then the process will take slightly longer. Again, with brake cooling ducts open and fully functional, perform the following procedures.
On the first lap, perform several snubs with progressively higher pedal pressure and braking force and from higher speeds. You will feel the effectiveness of the brakes increase with each successive brake application. This should take 6 to 10 snubs per lap and is usually completed in one or two laps. If non-PFC friction materials were previously run on the discs then this procedure could take as many as three to five laps. This is because the non-PFC friction material transfer layer must first be cleaned from the disc and then a fresh layer must be imparted to the disc.
Running additional laps is the best way to accomplish the new transfer layer and, due to the higher surface temperatures, will assure a complete removal of the old friction materials from the disc. Braking effectiveness should be excellent at this point and the car can be driven normally.
NOTE: Sanding/machine grinding the discs will not decrease the bedding time. Whenever new Performance Friction pads are installed, the pads require very little cool down time. Usually the time spent taking tyre temperatures and a debriefing with the driver is sufficient.
04-10-2012, 12:59 AM
#42
Rennlist Member
Trust me on this
PFC 08
You know how many track miles Trakcar and I have on them
Good all the way to the backing plate.....same feel
These pads were on my car for a 2:20 at Sebring and the only indication they were gone was the terrible squeal during warm up laps
Pagid is garbage, once you run 08 you will be hooked for life
I have stock
PFC 08
You know how many track miles Trakcar and I have on them
Good all the way to the backing plate.....same feel
These pads were on my car for a 2:20 at Sebring and the only indication they were gone was the terrible squeal during warm up laps
Pagid is garbage, once you run 08 you will be hooked for life
I have stock
04-10-2012, 01:52 AM
#44
Racer
Regardless of capability (cracka, pleeze), the 01s will stop a dump truck, and IME chew up rotors; choose your fluid accordingly.
I disagree; the cold track pads with easily scrape off any other existing pad material, but don't take my word for it.
(link)
I disagree; the cold track pads with easily scrape off any other existing pad material, but don't take my word for it.
(link)
Probably the old school in me that just likes it that way. I like a new surface for a new pad unless the compounds are identical.
I see that they say what they are saying based on time it takes to bed them in and that the time is no different from a sanded surface. I was more or less talking about two different pads. Regardless, I have never had an issue or failure as both surfaces have no other contaminants on them. I guess it's an old habit.
As my dad used to say, "It's a dumb mother f-er that doesn't learn something new every day."
04-14-2012, 04:07 PM
#45
Instructor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hampshire & London, UK
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi All,
someone asked a question about 01s on different platforms...well, I switched from Pagids to 01s on fronts and kept RS-19 on rears. I only do 10x trackdays per annum...the 01s are going well in yr-2 with 5mm left from new of 17mm. They are SUPERB in stopping and modulation on my car...which is a front engine AWD Audi TT-RS modified to over 400PS and it is heavier than a GT3RS.
Only complain with 01s was wheel dust however not an issue as it is easy to clean off with Billberry.
For me they are the only pads for a track car - when the RS-19 rears eventually die they will be replaced with 01s also.
someone asked a question about 01s on different platforms...well, I switched from Pagids to 01s on fronts and kept RS-19 on rears. I only do 10x trackdays per annum...the 01s are going well in yr-2 with 5mm left from new of 17mm. They are SUPERB in stopping and modulation on my car...which is a front engine AWD Audi TT-RS modified to over 400PS and it is heavier than a GT3RS.
Only complain with 01s was wheel dust however not an issue as it is easy to clean off with Billberry.
For me they are the only pads for a track car - when the RS-19 rears eventually die they will be replaced with 01s also.