Need Spring Rate Recommendations
12-13-2011, 05:00 PM
#18
Drifting
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AFTERMARKET & MOTORSPORTS HEADQUARTERS - WEST
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA. 92064
1-858-386-5900
Just called and spoke to Bilstein in CA where the revalve & rebuild work gets done. They tuned me on to the download page. (link)
These are all PDFs.
Also just verified cost; $65 rebuild & revalve per shock; $75 rebuild & revalve per strut.
HTH anyone else considering.
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA. 92064
1-858-386-5900
Just called and spoke to Bilstein in CA where the revalve & rebuild work gets done. They tuned me on to the download page. (link)
These are all PDFs.
- Valving Manual - Page 1 to 10
- Valving Manual - Page 11 to 20
- Valving Manual - Page 21 to 30
- Valving Manual - Page 31 to 40
- Valving Manual - Page 41 to 50
- Valving Manual - Page 51 to 60
- Valving Manual - Page 61 to 70
- Valving Manual - Page 71 to 78
- Repair Order Instruction Sheet
Also just verified cost; $65 rebuild & revalve per shock; $75 rebuild & revalve per strut.
HTH anyone else considering.
12-13-2011, 09:15 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
AFTERMARKET & MOTORSPORTS HEADQUARTERS - WEST
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA. 92064
1-858-386-5900
Just called and spoke to Bilstein in CA where the revalve & rebuild work gets done. ....
Also just verified cost; $65 rebuild & revalve per shock; $75 rebuild & revalve per strut.
HTH anyone else considering.
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA. 92064
1-858-386-5900
Just called and spoke to Bilstein in CA where the revalve & rebuild work gets done. ....
Also just verified cost; $65 rebuild & revalve per shock; $75 rebuild & revalve per strut.
HTH anyone else considering.
12-13-2011, 09:22 PM
#21
Took about 4 weeks for mine... But winter is here anyway... I believe they have some sort of expedited service, but I'm frugal! Don't forget to request dyno sheet. Got mine afterwards via email as a PDF. Asked them to use 3200# (actual empty weight is 3167) and 38/62% f/r for valving.
12-13-2011, 10:47 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
VBob:
"Zero rate is the best thing to do as FFaust stated. For mostly track car with the other suspension mods, it is your best way to go."
FFaust:
"I would say 0# tenders, just to keep everything lined up when un-weighted. Otherwise, it gets too complicated for my tiny brain"
1+
"Zero rate is the best thing to do as FFaust stated. For mostly track car with the other suspension mods, it is your best way to go."
FFaust:
"I would say 0# tenders, just to keep everything lined up when un-weighted. Otherwise, it gets too complicated for my tiny brain"
1+
Last edited by KOAN; 12-13-2011 at 11:03 PM. Reason: compulsive
12-13-2011, 10:47 PM
#24
- I think you just answered your own question.
- 600/800 will be a huge improvement, especially with all the RSS stuff.
I'm currently at 620/900
- I use Swift Springs and Tenders
- 45#s in the Front
- 168#s in the Rear
I went with a sort of hybrid approach
- the 100 split crowd + the euro 700 split KW Suspension crowd
- the one thing I really like about the 900# rear spring is I feel it helps hold up the rear of the car and that helps everything
- the current KW Suspension NRing setup is 400/1100 for what it's worth
- 600/800 will be a huge improvement, especially with all the RSS stuff.
I'm currently at 620/900
- I use Swift Springs and Tenders
- 45#s in the Front
- 168#s in the Rear
I went with a sort of hybrid approach
- the 100 split crowd + the euro 700 split KW Suspension crowd
- the one thing I really like about the 900# rear spring is I feel it helps hold up the rear of the car and that helps everything
- the current KW Suspension NRing setup is 400/1100 for what it's worth
12-14-2011, 11:59 PM
#25
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- I think you just answered your own question.
- 600/800 will be a huge improvement, especially with all the RSS stuff.
I'm currently at 620/900
- I use Swift Springs and Tenders
- 45#s in the Front
- 168#s in the Rear
I went with a sort of hybrid approach
- the 100 split crowd + the euro 700 split KW Suspension crowd
- the one thing I really like about the 900# rear spring is I feel it helps hold up the rear of the car and that helps everything
- the current KW Suspension NRing setup is 400/1100 for what it's worth
- 600/800 will be a huge improvement, especially with all the RSS stuff.
I'm currently at 620/900
- I use Swift Springs and Tenders
- 45#s in the Front
- 168#s in the Rear
I went with a sort of hybrid approach
- the 100 split crowd + the euro 700 split KW Suspension crowd
- the one thing I really like about the 900# rear spring is I feel it helps hold up the rear of the car and that helps everything
- the current KW Suspension NRing setup is 400/1100 for what it's worth
12-15-2011, 09:25 AM
#28
Race Car
My old C2 had rates of 450/900. You'd think oversteer city right? Didn't turn as well as my current setup with 600/750 on the GT3.
Some of that has to be due to valving in the shocks. The C2 had the same bilstein damper as the GT3 just revalved to H&R specs to match the springs.
I'm still not sure I've got the JRZ 3-way's totally figured out yet but they sure are nice to play with and make larger changes in the car's behavior than I thought they could / would. I sometimes think they are slowing down my learning curve with this car because I can't leave well enough alone and always want to tinker.
Some of that has to be due to valving in the shocks. The C2 had the same bilstein damper as the GT3 just revalved to H&R specs to match the springs.
I'm still not sure I've got the JRZ 3-way's totally figured out yet but they sure are nice to play with and make larger changes in the car's behavior than I thought they could / would. I sometimes think they are slowing down my learning curve with this car because I can't leave well enough alone and always want to tinker.
12-15-2011, 10:52 AM
#29
Nordschleife Master
12-15-2011, 10:19 PM
#30
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