CanyonBlaster

My tech has had this issue 2x. He sets the aligment and after a few miles the car looses the settings, steering wheel goes haywire and car is unstable. Last time it turned out to be the right rear toe. Control arm moves.

What do I need to do? Is the tech at fault or is the part at fault?
what are the parts to cure/end this issue for good??

Thank U!

runet

Common problem.
Here is the fix:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...%20arms%20only

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...%30%35%2Don%29

There are other brands making toe link arms as well.

LVDell

locking plate kit isn't going to solve that issue. the stock arm and eccentric are 100% stable if torqued properly. And we are talking about street driving with very little load leaving the shop after an alignment. Track I could understand but there is a different between losing your setting and bump steer.

What setting was lost the time before? same right rear toe?

There are a host of issues that could be at play. Stripped bolts. Improper torque settings. hardware failure. etc, etc, etc.

Which control arm are you referring to? In the rear, there are several.

In this situation I would place more of the blame on the tech as he should have been able to tell you what is causing the problem and suggest the proper replacement.

If I was the tech (I just play one on tv) I would have had you come back to the shop immediately and not let the car leave the facility until I diagnosed the problem that led to the alignment not holding.

It's difficult to tell you which items are contributing to the toe issue (or the previous issue) without actually seeing what is contributing to it.

SH || NC

Moreover, if you buy anything made by Tarrett just buy directly from Tarrett.

http://www.tarett.com/

996FLT6

Seems coincidental that u had an issue with bearings and hub on the same side on your other post. Has the hub/ bearings been done already? Mike

spare tire

The rear toe is famous for slipping out of alignment. The eccentric bolf could have been overtorqued and streatched or undertorqued by your tech OR the prevous owner's mechanic. For track use most just buy adjustable toe links and locking plates and never worry again. You can torque the existing stock links harder and hope... or buy a new set of camming bolts from Porsche and hope that it was a streatched bolt and the new ones will solve the problem for a while. If the mechanic regularly works on race cars, then he should be able to give you this same advice

You can also crawl under your car after the alignment is done and paint a stripe on the bolt to see if it has moved. If you feel some weird handleing, then check for bolt movement.

CanyonBlaster

Thanks very much gents!

Turns out (hopefully...) the issue is my subframe where the ecentrics "seat" is a bit is shallowed out from so many alignments and won't hold them....we went with the Tarrettt bits. They are coming overnight.

fingers crossed...

BTW - I already have the GMG toe links from PO....

LVDell

When you say you went with the tarret bits, what bits exactly? You say you already have the GMG toe arms.

AudiOn19s

Sounds like the tech was trying to use the stock eccentric to set toe not the adjustable arm that's already on the car???

When the adjustable arms are installed on the car the eccentric should be set on the small portion of the lobe (sorry i couldn't come up with a better description). Once in that position there's a good bit it can move without effecting toe at all and it's not very likely to move at all to begin with as the adjustment is all the way in.

Locking plates are a good move none the less but it soudns like if he would have left the adjuster on the eccentric all the way in and used the adjustable arms you wouldn't be having this problem. He'll be forced to use the arms once the locking plates are on the car though.

Andy

CanyonBlaster

Thanks for the replies.

I do have upgraded toe links. I do believe my tech is aware of how to do this job. He is a P car hot shoe 911 racer and the shop owner, and he is getting advice from the best GT3 and Cup car tech in Colorado.

I believe the issue is that the ecentric is just unable to really set securely within my subframe there as it is just "buggered" a bit (perhaps from heavy use - lots of alignments - it does look different than the other side - looks a little mangled, etc..), and it won't hold the ecentric in position.

Hopefully the Tarett locking plates will solve issue. Only the right side is buggered and has been moving, but we are applyng the locking plates to both sides proactively.

much thanks for the help

CanyonBlaster

(overdue) UPDATE:

The tarrett locking plates solved this problem!
Thank you for the help guys.

M3EvoBR

hum .... I never felt the need for locking plates. I constantly hear people installing them. I don't see Cup cars using them, and they don't loose their alignment after one weekend (unless contact happens)
As long as you have the right parts, and the job done correctly you won't need them. Get rid of the eccentric.

AllanJ

...I think that's the key here. Cup cars aren't going to be aligned by a tech who doesn't know how to do this properly. Cars the general public gets will see all kinds of "techs" and damage can be done. Locking plates can help compensate for past butchery.

M3EvoBR

those are my thoughts too.

BealeAss

Mine is also out of whack too, just had it aligned like 3k miles ago. Am I lucky to get that much mileage or is that about right before it goes outta whack again?