Best mods for $5K - installed!
#17
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Already have the Euro seats, and light weight battery.
If a new exhaust, which one? Most that I looked at don't save much weight nor promise power increase. The obvious exception is Design Tek, which is not available here, has fairy tale claims for power gains, and probably won't fit in the budget.
Those that have gone the re-valve re-spring route - is it better to install solid mounts at the same time?
If a new exhaust, which one? Most that I looked at don't save much weight nor promise power increase. The obvious exception is Design Tek, which is not available here, has fairy tale claims for power gains, and probably won't fit in the budget.
Those that have gone the re-valve re-spring route - is it better to install solid mounts at the same time?
#18
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As for as exhaust its gotta be the Europipe. Combine the Europipe with GIAC ECU programming (the GIAC programming was designed to work with the Europipe) and you may see respectable gains. Plus without a doubt you lose the weight. You could do both of those well under budget / installed.
#19
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Since he is getting dangerously close to making me look slow :sure:
+996
#20
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Thanks for all the great input!
Coaching is coming. I've got two great candidates.
Back to the car mods - Europipe is about $5K installed. So it's either it or suspension upgrades...Which route is better? Just changing the mufflers for Fabspeed or GMG is much less money. Anybody done that?
What's the easiest way to shed some weight without stripping the interior?
Coaching is coming. I've got two great candidates.
Back to the car mods - Europipe is about $5K installed. So it's either it or suspension upgrades...Which route is better? Just changing the mufflers for Fabspeed or GMG is much less money. Anybody done that?
What's the easiest way to shed some weight without stripping the interior?
#22
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So let me summarize:
*ALL safety equipment (harness/cage, fire bottle, HANS seat)
*proper alignment and corner balance
*race pads (Pagid/PFC/etc.) and race brake fluid (SRF/ATE/Motul/etc.)
*LWFW
*Regearing for most frequented track
*Motons or revalve
*rear toe links
*cup shifter
*new LSD (Guards)
*dedicated track wheels/tires
*upgrade exhaust for 1) more hp, 2) reduce weight, and 3) better sound
*reduce weight!!!! (carpets, center console, etc.)
I'd also add:
*replace all rubber bushings
*front screens to protect the radiators
*weld the pressure-fitted coolant fittings
*Rennline accelerator pedal for easier heel/toe
Now what would be very cool is if someone could ballpark price each of the above line-items!
-Blake
*ALL safety equipment (harness/cage, fire bottle, HANS seat)
*proper alignment and corner balance
*race pads (Pagid/PFC/etc.) and race brake fluid (SRF/ATE/Motul/etc.)
*LWFW
*Regearing for most frequented track
*Motons or revalve
*rear toe links
*cup shifter
*new LSD (Guards)
*dedicated track wheels/tires
*upgrade exhaust for 1) more hp, 2) reduce weight, and 3) better sound
*reduce weight!!!! (carpets, center console, etc.)
I'd also add:
*replace all rubber bushings
*front screens to protect the radiators
*weld the pressure-fitted coolant fittings
*Rennline accelerator pedal for easier heel/toe
Now what would be very cool is if someone could ballpark price each of the above line-items!
-Blake
#23
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If u want to have a real seat of your pants feel the r/p or shorter gears or both is what u looking for. Other then coaching everything falls in comparison to feel. Dyno numbers on Trq vs stock and shorter r/p etc is dramatic. I have copans 4.0 r/p and Trq number is at 313 vs stock r/p on same dynojet is 273-278. Cons- increased wear/lower top speed(191 to 178) and 1st gear pretty useless. But if u track- worth while upgrade. Mike
#24
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So let me summarize:
*ALL safety equipment (harness/cage, fire bottle, HANS seat)
*proper alignment and corner balance
*race pads (Pagid/PFC/etc.) and race brake fluid (SRF/ATE/Motul/etc.)
*LWFW
*Regearing for most frequented track
*Motons or revalve
*rear toe links
*cup shifter
*new LSD (Guards)
*dedicated track wheels/tires
*upgrade exhaust for 1) more hp, 2) reduce weight, and 3) better sound
*reduce weight!!!! (carpets, center console, etc.)
I'd also add:
*replace all rubber bushings
*front screens to protect the radiators
*weld the pressure-fitted coolant fittings
*Rennline accelerator pedal for easier heel/toe
Now what would be very cool is if someone could ballpark price each of the above line-items!
-Blake
*ALL safety equipment (harness/cage, fire bottle, HANS seat)
*proper alignment and corner balance
*race pads (Pagid/PFC/etc.) and race brake fluid (SRF/ATE/Motul/etc.)
*LWFW
*Regearing for most frequented track
*Motons or revalve
*rear toe links
*cup shifter
*new LSD (Guards)
*dedicated track wheels/tires
*upgrade exhaust for 1) more hp, 2) reduce weight, and 3) better sound
*reduce weight!!!! (carpets, center console, etc.)
I'd also add:
*replace all rubber bushings
*front screens to protect the radiators
*weld the pressure-fitted coolant fittings
*Rennline accelerator pedal for easier heel/toe
Now what would be very cool is if someone could ballpark price each of the above line-items!
-Blake
To the list we need to add:
*Firmer springs if re-valving the Bilsteins
* ECU re-flash if changing the exhaust
#26
Do you want lighter weight and increased sound? If so, get the exhaust.
Is the stock suspension holding you back? If so, upgrade your suspension.
What kinds of times are you turning at the track?
Battery & bolt down, exhaust, wheels, brakes - all bolt on.
#27
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Do you want lighter weight and increased sound? If so, get the exhaust.
Is the stock suspension holding you back? If so, upgrade your suspension.
What kinds of times are you turning at the track?
#28
Nordschleife Master
1) Decide what you want/need to improve. You don't seem to feel any shortcomings, so the generic list is a good place to start
2) Suspension, get rid of rubber: Monoball toe link (+ bump steer kit if really low), dog bones, 4 X lower control arms and thrust bushings - Certainly fits in the "capital improvement" category. If you are running sticky rubber, this is where you should spend your $$
3) LWFW + gearing (if appropriate to your use) + LSD
Just did my first track day on the GT3, coming from a 997S. Car has full cup suspension + all the other goodies. My driving is no where near the top, but the ONE thing I did notice above all was the LSD. Just blew me away how the car hooks up if it gets upset/bumped around mid-corner. I really feel it's a safety feature.
2) Suspension, get rid of rubber: Monoball toe link (+ bump steer kit if really low), dog bones, 4 X lower control arms and thrust bushings - Certainly fits in the "capital improvement" category. If you are running sticky rubber, this is where you should spend your $$
3) LWFW + gearing (if appropriate to your use) + LSD
Just did my first track day on the GT3, coming from a 997S. Car has full cup suspension + all the other goodies. My driving is no where near the top, but the ONE thing I did notice above all was the LSD. Just blew me away how the car hooks up if it gets upset/bumped around mid-corner. I really feel it's a safety feature.
#29
i too went from 997s to gt3 last august...car had soft bad shocks...best i did at sebring first day before a racer friend told me the car was unsafe was 231..changed springs and added jrz pros with ext canisters and did 228 next day..226 following day...night and day with shocks...my car had only 13k miles when i bought it so i would say at least revalve...estimates i have read for revalve and lsd sent to guard (i did that already too) is less than 5k so my vote would be lsd and revalve shocks....
i have used john dean and chris hall for coaches..both great..
ps john dean took my car out last month to tune the suspension and found loose bolts and sway bar resting on control arm in front...but still first lap of the morning with brand new nittos (greasy) was 223 at sebring...so coaching is up there on my recommendations...the car is awsome..hope to see you out there...i run with pboc, chin and pca......i'm the token asian guy with black 996 gt3 ...
mike
i have used john dean and chris hall for coaches..both great..
ps john dean took my car out last month to tune the suspension and found loose bolts and sway bar resting on control arm in front...but still first lap of the morning with brand new nittos (greasy) was 223 at sebring...so coaching is up there on my recommendations...the car is awsome..hope to see you out there...i run with pboc, chin and pca......i'm the token asian guy with black 996 gt3 ...
mike
#30
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Mike, I am running mostly with PBOC, hanging with the Foreign affairs guys. I will be there for the May event (3 days), would love to meet you if make it.
You are making a strong argument for suspension work before exhaust etc.. Do you remember the specs for your springs? Did you change any other suspension pieces other than the JRZ?
You are making a strong argument for suspension work before exhaust etc.. Do you remember the specs for your springs? Did you change any other suspension pieces other than the JRZ?