GT3 sway bar settings
#17
Nordschleife Master
NT01 wins all categories except 1.
Predictability NT01
Control NT01
Less Temperamental (Temp and Pressure) NT01
HC's NT01
Price NT01
Lap Time MPSC
In my opinion, the step up from NT01 is not MPSC, it is R6.
Predictability NT01
Control NT01
Less Temperamental (Temp and Pressure) NT01
HC's NT01
Price NT01
Lap Time MPSC
In my opinion, the step up from NT01 is not MPSC, it is R6.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dell, re the Nittos - I see they don't come in the stock 295/30-18 - do you run the 315's with no problem? Do you stick with 235 up front or run the 245's?
#19
Nordschleife Master
Correct, the 315 in the rear is what you run. In the front you can run the 235 or the 245. The 245 will give slight rubbing at full lock in the paddock.
#22
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I want to dig this thread back up from 5 years ago.
I'm heading back to the track next weekend and in thinking about the way my GT3 performs on track, I am pretty happy with everything, except traction on corner exit. Whilst it's not undrivable, a lot of patience is required with throttle application (a technique that I feel I have honed in my 18 months of track use in this car). I feel I'm not experiencing that magical drive off the corner that other GT3 owners talk about. My car also has a cup final drive, however its suspension settings have remained more or less the same since this was fitted.
To get to to the point, I have adjustable sway bars and 2-way adjustable dampers at my disposal. I am confident changing the sway bar, but am reluctant to fiddle with the dampers, given I don't know exactly what I'm doing in that department (and incremental changes in rebound or compression are probably more difficult to quantify for an amateur). I am also running R-compounds and have the appropriate wheel alignment settings for these. Would softening the rear bar a notch or 2 be an effective change to better manage the traction issue on corner exits or do I need to get busy with the damper settings?
I'm heading back to the track next weekend and in thinking about the way my GT3 performs on track, I am pretty happy with everything, except traction on corner exit. Whilst it's not undrivable, a lot of patience is required with throttle application (a technique that I feel I have honed in my 18 months of track use in this car). I feel I'm not experiencing that magical drive off the corner that other GT3 owners talk about. My car also has a cup final drive, however its suspension settings have remained more or less the same since this was fitted.
To get to to the point, I have adjustable sway bars and 2-way adjustable dampers at my disposal. I am confident changing the sway bar, but am reluctant to fiddle with the dampers, given I don't know exactly what I'm doing in that department (and incremental changes in rebound or compression are probably more difficult to quantify for an amateur). I am also running R-compounds and have the appropriate wheel alignment settings for these. Would softening the rear bar a notch or 2 be an effective change to better manage the traction issue on corner exits or do I need to get busy with the damper settings?
#23
Pro
You can fine tune the handling of your car with other parameters as well. here is a list of things you can do. Since you did not go into any detail as to what the car is doing, your set up, etc. this is the best I can do.
Formatting sucks, but you will figure it out.
Fromhttp://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...ybar_setup.htm
PARAMETER. TO INCREASE UNDERSTEER TO INCREASE OVERSTEER
Front Tire Pressure Lower Higher
Rear Tire Pressure Higher Lower
Front Tire Width Smaller Larger
Rear Tire Width Larger Smaller
Front Camber More Positive More Negative
Rear Camber More Negative More Positive
Front Springs Stiffer Softer
Rear Springs Softer Stiffer
Front Sway Bar Stiffer Softer
Rear Sway Bar Softer Stiffer
Formatting sucks, but you will figure it out.
Fromhttp://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...ybar_setup.htm
PARAMETER. TO INCREASE UNDERSTEER TO INCREASE OVERSTEER
Front Tire Pressure Lower Higher
Rear Tire Pressure Higher Lower
Front Tire Width Smaller Larger
Rear Tire Width Larger Smaller
Front Camber More Positive More Negative
Rear Camber More Negative More Positive
Front Springs Stiffer Softer
Rear Springs Softer Stiffer
Front Sway Bar Stiffer Softer
Rear Sway Bar Softer Stiffer
#24
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You can fine tune the handling of your car with other parameters as well. here is a list of things you can do. Since you did not go into any detail as to what the car is doing, your set up, etc. this is the best I can do.
Formatting sucks, but you will figure it out.
Fromhttp://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...ybar_setup.htm
PARAMETER. TO INCREASE UNDERSTEER TO INCREASE OVERSTEER
Front Tire Pressure Lower Higher
Rear Tire Pressure Higher Lower
Front Tire Width Smaller Larger
Rear Tire Width Larger Smaller
Front Camber More Positive More Negative
Rear Camber More Negative More Positive
Front Springs Stiffer Softer
Rear Springs Softer Stiffer
Front Sway Bar Stiffer Softer
Rear Sway Bar Softer Stiffer
Formatting sucks, but you will figure it out.
Fromhttp://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...ybar_setup.htm
PARAMETER. TO INCREASE UNDERSTEER TO INCREASE OVERSTEER
Front Tire Pressure Lower Higher
Rear Tire Pressure Higher Lower
Front Tire Width Smaller Larger
Rear Tire Width Larger Smaller
Front Camber More Positive More Negative
Rear Camber More Negative More Positive
Front Springs Stiffer Softer
Rear Springs Softer Stiffer
Front Sway Bar Stiffer Softer
Rear Sway Bar Softer Stiffer
#25
Race Car
Thanks for posting. I believe I have experimented with tyre pressures (and tyre sizes) to the point where the car is as good as its going to be without touching anything else. Its handling is fairly well balanced, maybe a little on the nose and tyre wear is even. The thing is does most consistently is power on oversteer on corner exit. It's fun but I feel its robbing me of some tenths. I figure this table is stating that sway bars are the last thing to play with?
There's no harm in changing the rear bar...these things are adjustable so that we can tinker with them and if you don't like it you can put it right back.
Personally what I'd suggest in your situation if you like everything else the car is doing except corner exit I'd do the following.
First, try taking a couple clicks of compression out of the rear shocks. It'll allow more weight transfer to the rear of the car when on the throttle and possibly help. This is going to be a small help not a big help. If these are really long sweepers and not shorter corners you might want to also take a click of rebound out of the rear to allow it to squat longer before returning to the neutral position of the shock.
THEN go softer on the rear bar. or play around with a combo of both. I like a really soft rear bar on my car but it's just personal preference.
#26
Racer
There's no harm in changing the rear bar...these things are adjustable so that we can tinker with them and if you don't like it you can put it right back.
Personally what I'd suggest in your situation if you like everything else the car is doing except corner exit I'd do the following.
First, try taking a couple clicks of compression out of the rear shocks. It'll allow more weight transfer to the rear of the car when on the throttle and possibly help. This is going to be a small help not a big help. If these are really long sweepers and not shorter corners you might want to also take a click of rebound out of the rear to allow it to squat longer before returning to the neutral position of the shock.
THEN go softer on the rear bar. or play around with a combo of both. I like a really soft rear bar on my car but it's just personal preference.
Personally what I'd suggest in your situation if you like everything else the car is doing except corner exit I'd do the following.
First, try taking a couple clicks of compression out of the rear shocks. It'll allow more weight transfer to the rear of the car when on the throttle and possibly help. This is going to be a small help not a big help. If these are really long sweepers and not shorter corners you might want to also take a click of rebound out of the rear to allow it to squat longer before returning to the neutral position of the shock.
THEN go softer on the rear bar. or play around with a combo of both. I like a really soft rear bar on my car but it's just personal preference.
#27
Race Car
I'm reading along and you lost me on rebound.. when you say "click of rebound out" does this mean increase rebound rate to achieve the longer squat? I'm all caught up in semantics here when comparing to compression (that one's clear to me) as it seems like "rebound" and "rebound rate" might be treated as opposite and be causing my confusion... also I don't get to turn ***** so no practical experience Thanks
Shock tuning is a black art to some. Not everyone agrees on ways to fix handling issues even though there's basic theory to doing it. On a double adjustable shock most will tell you to set the rebound where it makes the car happiest from a traction perspective (no bouncing, etc) and then do all of the tuning with compression. Other theories disagree. I try these days just to use compression for fine tuning but sometimes still twist both ***** depending on the situation. Might not always be the right move but it's easy to put back.
#28
Racer
I mean decrease rebound rate. Rebound is going to be the rate at which the shock returns to neutral from it's compressed stated. I'd very much try just the compression first and then maybe add the rebound second. with both you're allowing it to compress more quickly and then slowing the rate of return to neutral effectively leaving weight on that corner of the car longer. With compression only you're moving weight to that corner more quickly than before but it's not necessarily staying there longer.
Shock tuning is a black art to some. Not everyone agrees on ways to fix handling issues even though there's basic theory to doing it. On a double adjustable shock most will tell you to set the rebound where it makes the car happiest from a traction perspective (no bouncing, etc) and then do all of the tuning with compression. Other theories disagree. I try these days just to use compression for fine tuning but sometimes still twist both ***** depending on the situation. Might not always be the right move but it's easy to put back.
Shock tuning is a black art to some. Not everyone agrees on ways to fix handling issues even though there's basic theory to doing it. On a double adjustable shock most will tell you to set the rebound where it makes the car happiest from a traction perspective (no bouncing, etc) and then do all of the tuning with compression. Other theories disagree. I try these days just to use compression for fine tuning but sometimes still twist both ***** depending on the situation. Might not always be the right move but it's easy to put back.
#29
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I mean decrease rebound rate. Rebound is going to be the rate at which the shock returns to neutral from it's compressed stated. I'd very much try just the compression first and then maybe add the rebound second. with both you're allowing it to compress more quickly and then slowing the rate of return to neutral effectively leaving weight on that corner of the car longer. With compression only you're moving weight to that corner more quickly than before but it's not necessarily staying there longer.
Shock tuning is a black art to some. Not everyone agrees on ways to fix handling issues even though there's basic theory to doing it. On a double adjustable shock most will tell you to set the rebound where it makes the car happiest from a traction perspective (no bouncing, etc) and then do all of the tuning with compression. Other theories disagree. I try these days just to use compression for fine tuning but sometimes still twist both ***** depending on the situation. Might not always be the right move but it's easy to put back.
Shock tuning is a black art to some. Not everyone agrees on ways to fix handling issues even though there's basic theory to doing it. On a double adjustable shock most will tell you to set the rebound where it makes the car happiest from a traction perspective (no bouncing, etc) and then do all of the tuning with compression. Other theories disagree. I try these days just to use compression for fine tuning but sometimes still twist both ***** depending on the situation. Might not always be the right move but it's easy to put back.
For the sake of this discussion, is it fair to rule out the ARBs completely when searching for longitudinal grip? Thinking about the way a car exits a corner, when accelerating there are still unequal levels of grip at the rear tyres due to some lateral influence. ARB settings could alter this?
#30
Racer
Makes perfect sense, thanks for the advice! I need to actually look at how and where my dampers are adjusted as i've never checked since owning the car. It's looking like rain on Sunday when im at the track so it may not be worth altering the "baseline" if that's the case, will see how I go.
For the sake of this discussion, is it fair to rule out the ARBs completely when searching for longitudinal grip? Thinking about the way a car exits a corner, when accelerating there are still unequal levels of grip at the rear tyres due to some lateral influence. ARB settings could alter this?
For the sake of this discussion, is it fair to rule out the ARBs completely when searching for longitudinal grip? Thinking about the way a car exits a corner, when accelerating there are still unequal levels of grip at the rear tyres due to some lateral influence. ARB settings could alter this?