settings for sway bars
03-21-2011, 09:57 PM
#32
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Interesting as during my last event last year my car swapped ends in Monticello NY. Going through fast esses at full throttle when it just broke loose when I was turning toasted right - loading left side. The nut could have come off before that point? Or I'm just a bad driver. Could be the latter but I watched video last night there was no other reason the car should have snapped. Lesson here is for everyone to check things well, since only you have the most motivation to be safe and not your mechanic. Thanks to all for your input and documents!
03-21-2011, 09:59 PM
#33
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Appreciate the responses. Put the tires back and left sway unconnected. Will buy tomorrow from dealer- thanks for P/N. Probably will pay $10 bucks for 40 cent nuts. Just like the dealer charged me $50 for spacers last year when I asked for alignment. What a mistake. FYI, I have stock GT3 suspension, front sway maxed while rear to lowest / soft setting. Also cor balanced by Dan Jacobs recently so the car's pretty low to the ground...
Will consider upgrades later in the year.
Will consider upgrades later in the year.
I hate the iPad for changing words....
03-21-2011, 11:50 PM
#34
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Interesting as during my last event last year my car swapped ends in Monticello NY. Going through fast esses at full throttle when it just broke loose when I was turning toasted right - loading left side. The nut could have come off before that point? Or I'm just a bad driver. Could be the latter but I watched video last night there was no other reason the car should have snapped. Lesson here is for everyone to check things well, since only you have the most motivation to be safe and not your mechanic. Thanks to all for your input and documents!
03-22-2011, 10:09 PM
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The was my last event. So I never took off wheels until last weekend. I do drive every 3-4 weeks on the road when the roads are dry and salt free but never push as the State Troopers in NJ are like flaggers- they see everything and can ruin your day easily. But I did not the car was loose coming on and off highway ramps.
03-30-2011, 08:54 AM
#37
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03-30-2011, 08:31 PM
#39
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I must be deaf.... Brought car to shop for new MPSCs and had them look at the droplink and sway connection. They figured it only came off recently based light score marks inside the rim. But I'll never really know for sure. We attached the new Porsche bolt prescribed for the issue which is supposed to be impossible to back out on its own. Regardless after any track run, I'll be feeling for the sway connection by hand to be sure!
03-31-2011, 06:12 PM
#40
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Archimedes (talking about the principle of the lever), said: "Give me the place to stand, and I shall move the earth" : )
So gents for one more time, when you pick the hole away from the bar then you go soft, close to the bar is hard.
And below is the picture version that will end this "debate" for ever.
Now if you want to talk about the perfect settings that is another matter..
IMO the sway bars of the 6GT3 have a nice size and are well balanced F&R and also provide enough adjust ability to cover all personal driving styles, suspension upgrades, etc.
So gents for one more time, when you pick the hole away from the bar then you go soft, close to the bar is hard.
And below is the picture version that will end this "debate" for ever.
Now if you want to talk about the perfect settings that is another matter..
IMO the sway bars of the 6GT3 have a nice size and are well balanced F&R and also provide enough adjust ability to cover all personal driving styles, suspension upgrades, etc.
BTW, VERY nice video posted on here recently of Mike Levitas of TPC explaining why running stiffer front bars on the new wider-track RS' is a benefit >> wider track = more grip = better turn-in = less push => allows to stiffen up the front sway so that it can do more work.
Oh what the heck, here is a re-post it's so good (good stuff is in the first 2 minutes):
Oh what the heck, here is a re-post it's so good (good stuff is in the first 2 minutes):
In any case, I think you need to experiment to find the right setting for "you" and your setup, at a given track. A lot of fast 6GT3 drivers around here are running full soft in the front and full stiff in the rear with certain setups.
Still a lot to learn so I really appreciate the info in threads like these.
03-31-2011, 08:28 PM
#41
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03-31-2011, 08:57 PM
#42
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I think full soft front and full stiff rear is a dangerous combination even at Laguna which requires lots of turn-in. I agree that folks should experiment, just be carefull with that setup as your rear end will be very, very loose.....
04-01-2011, 01:05 AM
#43
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IIRC the factory shipped the GT3 1 notch from full stiff in the front and 1 notch from full soft in the rear. This was clearly set up to predominantly understeer. So (as I believe someone earlier mentioned) starting there abouts and incrementally adjusting the sways to your liking is not a bad approach in my book.
10-29-2013, 07:44 PM
#44
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Timely thread. Just ended my 15-day track season at MMP in Utah this past Saturday, and was able to shed 6 seconds off my "outer" track config time by season's end... (Don't lift!!!)
I jacked the car up to clean out the rubber worms before winter storage, and finally looked at my set-up:
FRONT = ONE from FULL STIFF (1 of 4)
REAR = ONE from FULL SOFT (3 of 4)
I moved to the wide Nitto NT-01s this season... I plan to play around with the sway setting next season...
-B
I jacked the car up to clean out the rubber worms before winter storage, and finally looked at my set-up:
FRONT = ONE from FULL STIFF (1 of 4)
REAR = ONE from FULL SOFT (3 of 4)
I moved to the wide Nitto NT-01s this season... I plan to play around with the sway setting next season...
-B
