FFaust

Thanks for the diagram John, nice illustration of the FACTS.

I don't think that there is any debate, there is simply a disconnect between these FACTS and the OP's mechanic's statement of what he did, "moved front sway bar links to rear most position to achieve full stiff"

Again, OP should look under the car and verify for himself and not rely on what is written on the invoice.

BTW, VERY nice video posted on here recently of Mike Levitas of TPC explaining why running stiffer front bars on the new wider-track RS' is a benefit >> wider track = more grip = better turn-in = less push => allows to stiffen up the front sway so that it can do more work.

Oh what the heck, here is a re-post it's so good (good stuff is in the first 2 minutes):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3b6uz...embedded#at=66

jrgordonsenior

Listen to his description, the others are muddled. His bar is in the full stiff position in his photo.

Side bar: tighten the bolts very firmly. I've had them wiggle their way loose and messing up the threads in the process and making it impossible to remove the nut. Then you have to sawzall them off and install new bolts if you have them. I've seen this happen way too often at the track so I now carry high grade spare bolts & nuts just for the drop links. I lent one out last weekend at Spring Mountain....

va122

I've had that happen too to my front, the nut came loose and wiggled it's way off. Talk about oversteer

rkirshner

thanks i do understand now
so i looked under the car
the mechanic got it backwards exactly opposite of what i requested
thanks to all

FFaust

Interesting. You stated that it was a very reputable certified P dealer, so maybe he simply misunderstood your request.

Did you by any chance tell him that you wanted to reduce understeer?

911SLOW

From now Francois is officially Rennlist's translator for incompetent dealers : )

Congrats! : )

FFaust

911SLOW

Come on F. I am paying you a compliment, it was a good catch..

I failed to translate the phrase "moved front sway bar links to rear most position" correctly, I believed that rear most was in relation to the bar.. : )

joe1973

I was reading this post searching for the answer. Flushed brakes this morning for April 1 DE at Lime Rock. Ten found front left drop link was just dangling... Not connected to sway. nut must have fallen off somehow. I had a few nuts in my toolbox incl M10 - three diff thread sizes 1, 1.25, 1.5 and none fit. Help as my car's left on jack stands tonight!

FFaust

Of course John, no worries, just teasing.

Thanks

FFaust

P/N is 999 084 624 09, Hexagon Nut M10

Probably not the info you need if you are looking through your tool box, but at least you can call around in the am to check for stock.

Maybe thread is damaged from when this all came apart and that's why you aren't able to use whats in your box??

Good luck.

jrgordonsenior

Why? You can most certainly drive the car, I just wouldn't go racing.....

joe1973

Appreciate the responses. Put the tires back and left sway unconnected. Will buy tomorrow from dealer- thanks for P/N. Probably will pay $10 bucks for 40 cent nuts. Just like the dealer charged me $50 for spacers last year when I asked for alignment. What a mistake. FYI, I have stock GT3 suspension, front sway maxed while rear to lowest / soft setting. Also cor balanced by Dan Jacobs recently so the car's pretty low to the ground...
Will consider upgrades later in the year.

rkirshner

thanks i believe what i learned is that a mechanic who works on porsches is different than a mechanic who tunes for the track . i will speak to him today but my guess is that sway bar adjustments are not something he does frequently. i wonder now if i didnt catch the error what i would have felt at the track.
ok onto my next 2 projects just bought racekeeper (in the process of installing)and will buy my first trailer this week (i think open featherlite )

911SLOW

they do that..