How loud?
02-26-2011, 11:53 AM
#61
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Should be a little better than a 997 GT3/RS /.1 We'll see. I hope I can hang with 997 GT3 .2. Cornering should be much more composed.
The biggest difference I found with a functioning LSD was stability under hard, downhill braking. The tail doesn't wag anymore. It's rock solid. Powering out of the corner is much better too.
I'd do that before exhaust in a heartbeat.
997 GT3 RS .2 has more power, revised suspension and better gearing. Equal driver it should pull away as the suspension is better than 996 & 997 GT3/RS .1. Jim in his 997 GT3 RS .2 is as fast as Bruce's 996 GT3 Cup. Sick huh?
Motons and lack of rubber should help a lot. With revised gearing Perry was a 2:10 at Calabogie. Bruce in stock 996 GT3 was 2:17. Big difference. Perry's shocks were revalved Bilsteins. Not 2 Way adjustable Motons with 15 ranges of adjustment on rebound and compression. He also had a Cup gearbox though. Mine is stock.
I'm trying to keep the car interesting. I love the car but the stock suspension is too soft. Now it should be much better although street driving will suck. Now I can run slicks if I so choose. That's 2-3 sec. a lap.
Next is R&P and revised gearing.
I'm excited to try it out in April.
You gotta go to the Glen. You'd love it.
The biggest difference I found with a functioning LSD was stability under hard, downhill braking. The tail doesn't wag anymore. It's rock solid. Powering out of the corner is much better too.
I'd do that before exhaust in a heartbeat.
997 GT3 RS .2 has more power, revised suspension and better gearing. Equal driver it should pull away as the suspension is better than 996 & 997 GT3/RS .1. Jim in his 997 GT3 RS .2 is as fast as Bruce's 996 GT3 Cup. Sick huh?
Motons and lack of rubber should help a lot. With revised gearing Perry was a 2:10 at Calabogie. Bruce in stock 996 GT3 was 2:17. Big difference. Perry's shocks were revalved Bilsteins. Not 2 Way adjustable Motons with 15 ranges of adjustment on rebound and compression. He also had a Cup gearbox though. Mine is stock.
I'm trying to keep the car interesting. I love the car but the stock suspension is too soft. Now it should be much better although street driving will suck. Now I can run slicks if I so choose. That's 2-3 sec. a lap.
Next is R&P and revised gearing.
I'm excited to try it out in April.
You gotta go to the Glen. You'd love it.
i was gridded next to a 6 cup in a club race. when green drops, he flew by me like i was in neutral. it wasn't driver skill, we were both lined up side by side from rolling start and i had the better start. easily 2 sec on a 1.5m in track, if not more.
02-26-2011, 02:13 PM
#66
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Costs like 2600 when I bought mine. Get it installed at the same time as the lsd. If you don't have the LWFW you should do that as well. They'll be in there anyway. Free labor .
02-26-2011, 04:49 PM
#67
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02-26-2011, 05:09 PM
#68
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Doing just R & P turns our local track (Tremblant ) from a 2, 3 , 4 gear track into a 3, 4, 5 track. Net result is zero. R & P and short gears is the only way to go or buy a cup trans..
02-26-2011, 05:55 PM
#70
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Club LSD, R&P plus gears with assorted bearings and steel synchros.... and your looking at ~12-13k for the parts, all in (tx and delivery) at your door. Installation is on top of this.
Don't ask how I know.......
Agreed, just adding an R&P isn't the sol'n....
Of course while your in there Chris (R&M), you really need to add LWFW and clutch....
Bottom line... It's a vicious cycle!!
Don't ask how I know.......
Agreed, just adding an R&P isn't the sol'n....
Of course while your in there Chris (R&M), you really need to add LWFW and clutch....
Bottom line... It's a vicious cycle!!
02-26-2011, 05:59 PM
#71
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the cup gear box makes a HUUUUUUUUUUGE difference.
i was gridded next to a 6 cup in a club race. when green drops, he flew by me like i was in neutral. it wasn't driver skill, we were both lined up side by side from rolling start and i had the better start. easily 2 sec on a 1.5m in track, if not more.
i was gridded next to a 6 cup in a club race. when green drops, he flew by me like i was in neutral. it wasn't driver skill, we were both lined up side by side from rolling start and i had the better start. easily 2 sec on a 1.5m in track, if not more.
In straight line performance the R&P plays a major role even without altered gears. oem ones are too long!
On the other hand oem gear spacing is ok for most tracks. Surely not ideal but adequate. (even Porsche did just an RP and only added a new 6th for economy and acceptable cruising to the 10RS)
But as with most things alike, this is a game of compromise..
If you have an unlimited budget of course the best way is to address both issues RP and regearing to match your specific track..
(even if you buy the cup gearbox you still have options regarding ratios.)
If I did all over again and for my usage and budget I would do the RP and just pick a better set of 3 4 5 and move oem 5 to 6.
02-26-2011, 06:27 PM
#72
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Club LSD, R&P plus gears with assorted bearings and steel synchros.... and your looking at ~12-13k for the parts, all in (tx and delivery) at your door. Installation is on top of this.
Don't ask how I know.......
Agreed, just adding an R&P isn't the sol'n....
Of course while your in there Chris (R&M), you really need to add LWFW and clutch....
Bottom line... It's a vicious cycle!!
Don't ask how I know.......
Agreed, just adding an R&P isn't the sol'n....
Of course while your in there Chris (R&M), you really need to add LWFW and clutch....
Bottom line... It's a vicious cycle!!
