85Gold

I don't think I ever got all the dirt out of the car. That is the 1 time I could have sure used a closed helmet with the visor down.

Peter

FFaust

Did I hear duct tape?

http://www.oddee.com/item_96822.aspx

http://thezac.com/ducttape/

http://www.octanecreative.com/ductta...ten/index.html

There's even a duct tape nation forum.

http://www.ducttapenation.net/index....ic=112.msg355/

Wow, I could go on all day. Had no idea.

996FLT6

U can unscrew them but it's dependent what loctite u use. I don't remember which loctite I used. Mike

AllanJ

Probably blue.
Red loctite isn't meant to come apart easily.

jrgordonsenior

If you adjust your bars for different conditions you don't want Locktite. Just check the nuts occasionally....

mooty

u beat me.

AllanJ

lol!

serickson

I just replaced both my sway bar nuts during my toe link replacement. I applied blue locktite plus lock washer on each side. I never realized that the sway bar link has an opposing nut next to the inside of the swaybar. I am thinking that this is possibly why they come loose because if you tighten the outer nut and not hold the inner nut you may just be turning the stud and not properly securing. I have never seen anyone mention this.

jrgordonsenior

You're talking about the bolt that slides thru the bottom of the drop link into an adjustment hole in the sway bar right? It's a bolt not a nut and you couldn't possibly tighten it without holding onto the bolt head. Bolt head is 17mm, sway bar nut is 15mm. You can tighten the living crap out of them and they still work they're way loose. Double nut them or try one of those nuts with a nylon insert but Locktie makes a easy adjustment a whole lot tougher.....

FFaust

If it's that much of an issue (no personal experience here), then self-locking nut or castellated nut + cotter pin.

85Gold

You all are over engineering this problem. Loctite is not needed or wanted. Get a 10mm nut and lock washer and apply to drop link. I have used this system for over 25,000 miles and never had 1 come loose. I can reach under the car with out jacking or putting on blocks and change the setting in less than 60 secs per side. Works real nice for a quick easy change @ AutoX depending on surface and then change back to a less aggressive setting for the street or track

Peter

Stepansy

OK, I've got the clatter when going over bumps and can feel it thru the steering wheel, so I'd like to check the sway bar nuts...only has 2400 miles. But my 2010 has got a bunch of aero plastic on the bottom. How much of that do I have to remove to get at the sway bar - how easy is it?

996FLT6

Just jack up car no need to remove ne liners to get to swaybar nuts/bolts. Mike

spare tire

You lucky if they only were loose. If you do not pay attention to it the nut will be gone and then it is a trip to the store for an $.65 cent item

Stepansy

OK, I poked my head in there and I can indeed see the drop link connection to the sway bar. Looks like the 2010 GT3 uses a 16 mm nut? Of course I've only got odd sizes in my tool box, so it's off to the store for me.

Anyone know what the torque is for the 2010 model?