Shorter Final Drive?
09-27-2010, 11:34 AM
#31
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The problem with the R&P is that it doesn't solve the problem of the VERY long gearing of the car. The only way to fix that is to change out the gears. Changing first and second is cost prohibited b/c they are fused to the shaft. However, you can change 3-6. The easiest way (and most cost effective) is to replace 3-5 and move 5th to 6th.
However, the only true way to fix EVERYTHING is to do both R&P and gears. But if you have to choose one, it's a no brainer that regearing is the better choice.
However, the only true way to fix EVERYTHING is to do both R&P and gears. But if you have to choose one, it's a no brainer that regearing is the better choice.
but do both RP and regear, you will end up with cup car box.
you need to dump main shaft, get new 1-5, at the point, might as well get new 6 since you already emptied the bank. just put it on credit now.
GT now has some options that provide more ratio vs oem.
i know dell knows it, but for the slightly less crazy GT3 drivers, no matter which gear set you choose, unless you only do one track, they are somewhat a compromise. so do something reasonable, dont go empty your bank. (ok,i am trying to convince myself...)
if i were to do it. i probably just do 3-5 and put 5 to 6. most nor cal track wont need 6th gear anyways. 140-150mph if you are realy really good.
09-27-2010, 11:36 AM
#32
Nordschleife Master
With my final gearing the top speed was in the low 170s. I would NEVER be able to get to that. Have clipped 160 a couple times but there was no way I would see anything higher.
If I had it to do all over again, I would have committed myself to an asylum.
If I had it to do all over again, I would have committed myself to an asylum.
09-27-2010, 12:44 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
My former car has just the 4.0 ring and pinion and stock gears and it was night and day better on the track vs stock... sure first is unusable but really just a pit gear anyway. In my mind, this is absolutely worth doing.
As Dell and others mentioned... there are "better" ways to do it but also more costly. I would not let the "better ways to do it" scare me away from just doing the ring and pinion. Ring and pinion alone is worth doing, IMHO.
Guard has a nice 8:33 ring and pinion as previously mentioned... I just did that, GT LSD and 1-4 gears... left 5th and 6th stock... top speed on the gear chart is now 170 which I will never see on the tracks that I go to.
As Dell and others mentioned... there are "better" ways to do it but also more costly. I would not let the "better ways to do it" scare me away from just doing the ring and pinion. Ring and pinion alone is worth doing, IMHO.
Guard has a nice 8:33 ring and pinion as previously mentioned... I just did that, GT LSD and 1-4 gears... left 5th and 6th stock... top speed on the gear chart is now 170 which I will never see on the tracks that I go to.
09-27-2010, 12:46 PM
#35
Nordschleife Master
I've been told PMNA is currently selling 4.0 r/p sets for about 20% off their usual price, which is about the same as that link posted in the first post of this thread. Just be sure you've got a meticulous mechanic installing it. I recently got a call from one of my customers who bought one of these discounted 4.0's and he had to send one back because it was out of spec. This is not meant as me bagging on Porsche. This is just a comment with respect to this is not a DIY or simple install. This particular instance the backside runout of the ring gear was 4/10,000th across 90 degrees rotation of the gear. There was a warp in the ring gear. He sent it back and got a good one. Most average mechanics would have missed that, installed it, and you'd have a new ring and pinion that howls like a mother. I also mention it so that you guys know you don't have to go overseas to get the decent price. You can get it here from Porsche Motorspors, assuming your installer has an account.
That said, I am with Mooty. If the budget only allows gears or the ring and pinion I will suggest the gears every time. It costs less because of the labor. They last longer, in general. Just be aware that if you go with a super short 3rd gear, it will have an abbreviated lifespan. There's always trade offs with this sort of thing. Every step you take to making your street car more of a track car compromises durability in the name of performance. It's just the nature of the beast.
That said, I am with Mooty. If the budget only allows gears or the ring and pinion I will suggest the gears every time. It costs less because of the labor. They last longer, in general. Just be aware that if you go with a super short 3rd gear, it will have an abbreviated lifespan. There's always trade offs with this sort of thing. Every step you take to making your street car more of a track car compromises durability in the name of performance. It's just the nature of the beast.
09-27-2010, 12:57 PM
#36
Race Director
Thread Starter
I've been told PMNA is currently selling 4.0 r/p sets for about 20% off their usual price, which is about the same as that link posted in the first post of this thread. Just be sure you've got a meticulous mechanic installing it. I recently got a call from one of my customers who bought one of these discounted 4.0's and he had to send one back because it was out of spec. This is not meant as me bagging on Porsche. This is just a comment with respect to this is not a DIY or simple install. This particular instance the backside runout of the ring gear was 4/10,000th across 90 degrees rotation of the gear. There was a warp in the ring gear. He sent it back and got a good one. Most average mechanics would have missed that, installed it, and you'd have a new ring and pinion that howls like a mother. I also mention it so that you guys know you don't have to go overseas to get the decent price. You can get it here from Porsche Motorspors, assuming your installer has an account.
That said, I am with Mooty. If the budget only allows gears or the ring and pinion I will suggest the gears every time. It costs less because of the labor. They last longer, in general. Just be aware that if you go with a super short 3rd gear, it will have an abbreviated lifespan. There's always trade offs with this sort of thing. Every step you take to making your street car more of a track car compromises durability in the name of performance. It's just the nature of the beast.
That said, I am with Mooty. If the budget only allows gears or the ring and pinion I will suggest the gears every time. It costs less because of the labor. They last longer, in general. Just be aware that if you go with a super short 3rd gear, it will have an abbreviated lifespan. There's always trade offs with this sort of thing. Every step you take to making your street car more of a track car compromises durability in the name of performance. It's just the nature of the beast.
My car is 99% track. I have other cars I drive on the street.
BTW, I tried the GT2 LSD you sold me last weekend for the first time and stability under braking is 100% better and safer. It's dead straight where before I had a tail wiggle. Powering out of corners is also much better. I can't tell you how pleased I am.
09-27-2010, 01:00 PM
#37
Nordschleife Master
Chris,
I am glad you like the LSD.
I'm gonna wait for PJS to come along and post to this thread. If I tell you what to do, I am selling you something. If a customer comes and tells you what he's done, it's firsthand testimonial.
I am glad you like the LSD.
I'm gonna wait for PJS to come along and post to this thread. If I tell you what to do, I am selling you something. If a customer comes and tells you what he's done, it's firsthand testimonial.
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changster123 (04-08-2024)
09-27-2010, 01:05 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
Just for thread reference, here are a couple pics of the 8:33 R and P that GT has
09-27-2010, 01:13 PM
#42
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I have the R&P with LWFW.
Only thing I do differently is to change the gear oil more frequently.
I guess that with a specific track in mind re-gearing together with R&P would be ideal but for most places stock gear spacing is adequate.
It also transforms the cars straight line performance from a dead start.
Installation of R&P is tricky, imagine that it covers a lot pages in the manual.
Interestingly Porsche decided to lower gears (who have quite similar spacing with the 6) on the 2.RS with the use of R&P and only altered 6th gear.
John
Only thing I do differently is to change the gear oil more frequently.
I guess that with a specific track in mind re-gearing together with R&P would be ideal but for most places stock gear spacing is adequate.
It also transforms the cars straight line performance from a dead start.
Installation of R&P is tricky, imagine that it covers a lot pages in the manual.
Interestingly Porsche decided to lower gears (who have quite similar spacing with the 6) on the 2.RS with the use of R&P and only altered 6th gear.
John
09-27-2010, 01:20 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
I missed the above "waiting for me" post...
Chris -- having done only the ring and pinion in my 996-3, this time around I wanted to do another ring and pinion...
Called Matt as I heard about the 8:33 and why it was better... also wanted a new LSD as the factory one is garbage for my uses (similar to yours)
Well... needless to say, I went all the way... 8:33, diff, and gears 1-4...
I did not arrive at this set up quickly... Matt was very patient and we talked through my uses etc. After several gear charts were produced and I was wearing Matt thin with all of the questions etc... I decided that the attached gear chart was the right solution for me. The rev drops are very good and I did not see a need to change 5th and 6th just for the sake of changing them all so to speak and I mainly use 6th only on the highway (although I do not street drive the car very often) and the factory gears are quiter than the guard gears but also not as strong.
So take a look at the attached gear chart and know that this is what I chose specifically for ME... but that I am sure Matt can walk you through the same discussion etc.
oh... and pleased as punch by the way
And Matt is a very nice guy that does not bs you which I appreciate.
Chris -- having done only the ring and pinion in my 996-3, this time around I wanted to do another ring and pinion...
Called Matt as I heard about the 8:33 and why it was better... also wanted a new LSD as the factory one is garbage for my uses (similar to yours)
Well... needless to say, I went all the way... 8:33, diff, and gears 1-4...
I did not arrive at this set up quickly... Matt was very patient and we talked through my uses etc. After several gear charts were produced and I was wearing Matt thin with all of the questions etc... I decided that the attached gear chart was the right solution for me. The rev drops are very good and I did not see a need to change 5th and 6th just for the sake of changing them all so to speak and I mainly use 6th only on the highway (although I do not street drive the car very often) and the factory gears are quiter than the guard gears but also not as strong.
So take a look at the attached gear chart and know that this is what I chose specifically for ME... but that I am sure Matt can walk you through the same discussion etc.
oh... and pleased as punch by the way
And Matt is a very nice guy that does not bs you which I appreciate.
09-27-2010, 04:42 PM
#44
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cup car gear box??>?
sure. but it's way way $$$$
sure. but it's way way $$$$
