easier? The car is at Cup Car ride height according to Kelly-Moss Motorsports who aligned/corner balanced it.

The trailer is pretty low profile:



Tried once without the splitter and there was NO way the front bumper was clearing. So, I bought these race ramps:








I cant' imagine finding longer ramps or a more flat way to load.

The car loads fine without the front splitter. But, I can't load it with the splitter on. I don't really want to mess with putting it on and taking it off at the track.

Any bright ideas? I must be missing something obvious.

 

Where is the splitter hitting? That area where your metal ramps join the trailer with the diamond plate mini ramps looks like a potential problem area.

 

Jack up the tongue raising the front of the trailer.

This will lower the back end decreasing your angle of approach.

 

Get small ramps for your trailer rig mounted in the rear to give trailer a steeper angle. I think u only need like 4-6 inches ramp height. Mike

 

Put some wood planking on the metal ramps, make sure it sits on the silver lips that come off the main trailer.

 

Winner. +1

 

It clears that part. It seems that it hits once the bumper starts to go up the dovetail.

I think using the tongue jack to raise the front more might work.

I'm going to try that first.

Thanks for all the responses.

I'll try these ideas.

 

Instead of jacking or trying to lower the tongue wheel, just drive the back wheels of your tow vehicle up onto a short piece of 2 x 10. drive up on wood, load car, pull forward, put the wood in the trailer for unloading.

 

Wow, the name of the trailer says it all

 

LOL - seriously, what a PITA.

I'll get it figured out. I miss loading my other track car (E36 BMW) - put ramps on, drive up, tie down, done.

 

Had an open trailer for 2 years- did not like it. Last straw was when I was winching my 6- the wire snapped car rolled down the ramp. Thank god my friend was there to yank the ebrake it woulda went into a ditch. Mike

 

I don't like that solution. If the jack fails the car rolls forward into the back of the tow vehicle.

I like placing thick enough plywood on the metal ramps.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

+1 but for a different reason.

If the splitter is hitting the dovetail then I can't see how lifting the front of the trailer would help. It might make the problem worse because now the dovetail will be at an even steeper angle.

(normally, lifting the front of the trailer via a jack or backing up the tow rig on ramps will help if the deck height is too high and your ramps are too short - but this situation seems to be different because of the metal ramp hook up design)

I'd probably make an upside down "U" from wood to fit over the metal ramps or other style to help make the wood stay put side to side and front to back (you need to make sure the rear tires won't "spin" the wood off the ramps) and this will raise the car a bit to help clear the dovetail.

Cheers,

 

What brand of winch did you have? If you say "Harbor Freight" then you forfeit your car to me.

 

What I did on my trailer (enclosed) was to not only have ramps leading up to the trailer ramp but then I screwed down to the trailer ramp itself a 2x10 on each side where I would drive up which had my raised up enough so when I hit the dove tail I had an inch to spare. It's a problem with these cars when they are lowered. I know I wince every time I help Randy (RJFabCab) load his GT3 into his enclosed trailer and get to hear that scraping sound of the splitter wanting to rip right off