Feedback on Hoosier R80 or R100
#31
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First off, thanks for your feedback and the comparison with the Yoko's.
I can appreciate your strategy as you're one who races exclusively. My strategy is for a different application.
I spend a lot of time at open track days where I use a hard compound that lasts a long time (NT-01). I get about 6-8 sessions per day per 3 day weekend, I can't afford to use slicks for that application. I get 30-40 HCs out of them.
I also time trial with a 3 lap format that is ideal for the A6s. They heat up instantly but fall off at 4 laps. However i get like 8-10 HCs out of them. Qualifying, like you I wait for little traffic (or get there early) get mine done in 2-3 laps too, but don't you find the slicks are just coming in?
The slicks, as great as they are, take a few laps to come in. Too long to wait for a TT but perfect for a race, so i save them for that application. Considering you get 4 HCs out of them only.
However, when I raced in BMWCCA my class did not allow for non dot tires and I really didn't have that large of a budget so I would use RA-1/A6/R6 strategy, and it worked for me. At least thats what I tell myself. Basically 2 sets of tires per season not a set per weekend.
I know Mooty's application is similar so i was just trying to help, maybe now that you understand me better you may see why I advocate that strategy.
I can appreciate your strategy as you're one who races exclusively. My strategy is for a different application.
I spend a lot of time at open track days where I use a hard compound that lasts a long time (NT-01). I get about 6-8 sessions per day per 3 day weekend, I can't afford to use slicks for that application. I get 30-40 HCs out of them.
I also time trial with a 3 lap format that is ideal for the A6s. They heat up instantly but fall off at 4 laps. However i get like 8-10 HCs out of them. Qualifying, like you I wait for little traffic (or get there early) get mine done in 2-3 laps too, but don't you find the slicks are just coming in?
The slicks, as great as they are, take a few laps to come in. Too long to wait for a TT but perfect for a race, so i save them for that application. Considering you get 4 HCs out of them only.
However, when I raced in BMWCCA my class did not allow for non dot tires and I really didn't have that large of a budget so I would use RA-1/A6/R6 strategy, and it worked for me. At least thats what I tell myself. Basically 2 sets of tires per season not a set per weekend.
I know Mooty's application is similar so i was just trying to help, maybe now that you understand me better you may see why I advocate that strategy.
Oh and I get more than 4 HC's out of my slicks. I practice on them all day next time out or I could race on them if needed. Fortunately I've been blessed with lots of free tires this year thanks to Yoko's generous contingency program. Now if only Hoosier would go back to last year's contingency program of 2 tires per win. Unfortunately they cut that in half this year while Yoko stepped up their program giving away 3 tire per win. I'm a racing ***** when it comes to free tires....
#32
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FWIW, I put a set of take off 250/650 on my car today and they rubbed pretty bad. I couldn't even run 1 session. I'm going to adjust my setup and see if I can get them to fit.
-td
-td
#34
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Yup, really. They rubbed so bad that I didn't even get 1 lap. It was really bad in one braking zone that has a small dip that really compresses the car. I think there may also be a rotor issue as I noted in the ATE thread.
-td
-td
#36
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It isn't the rotors. Are your front struts rotated or are you only using shims?
#38
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*sigh* Car was rubbing on both front fenders at the top of the fender under braking, but primarily under heavy compression, and also the fender liner in the front and middle rear.
I raised the ride height and the tires still barely caught the front fender liner under full lock.
FWIW, we measured the flange of the rear OEM rotors and the ATE and there is some additional width, about 70 thousandths. For the life of us we still can't figure out why it rubs.
I drove it, it was OK, but I couldn't drive flat out. C'est la vie.
-td
I raised the ride height and the tires still barely caught the front fender liner under full lock.
FWIW, we measured the flange of the rear OEM rotors and the ATE and there is some additional width, about 70 thousandths. For the life of us we still can't figure out why it rubs.
I drove it, it was OK, but I couldn't drive flat out. C'est la vie.
-td
#39
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-td
what is your spring rate? my 250/650 is tight in the fender. i can't get my finger in the gap, but no rubbing on fender lip.
if you r rubbing front fender liner, maybe you have too much caster?
what is your spring rate? my 250/650 is tight in the fender. i can't get my finger in the gap, but no rubbing on fender lip.
if you r rubbing front fender liner, maybe you have too much caster?
#40
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I have stock springs, but I haven't checked the caster yet.
With the raised ride height, the serious rubbing went away. It only rubs now under extreme compression. The liner parts that are rubbing are superficial, and I'll probably just let it be for now.
I'll get the car looked at later this week to see if the alignment is off, or if something else is amiss.
-td
With the raised ride height, the serious rubbing went away. It only rubs now under extreme compression. The liner parts that are rubbing are superficial, and I'll probably just let it be for now.
I'll get the car looked at later this week to see if the alignment is off, or if something else is amiss.
-td
#41
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I have stock springs, but I haven't checked the caster yet.
With the raised ride height, the serious rubbing went away. It only rubs now under extreme compression. The liner parts that are rubbing are superficial, and I'll probably just let it be for now.
I'll get the car looked at later this week to see if the alignment is off, or if something else is amiss.
-td
With the raised ride height, the serious rubbing went away. It only rubs now under extreme compression. The liner parts that are rubbing are superficial, and I'll probably just let it be for now.
I'll get the car looked at later this week to see if the alignment is off, or if something else is amiss.
-td
#43
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The nittos are great tires they last a long time, like 30-40 hc's! They have good grip from new till cords very predictable. Not as fast as Hoosiers
The cup tires are pretty good but I personally don't like them. They are at least as fast as the nittos and like a second or so off a r6. They last about 25 hc's but then cycle out. They fall off way before that though. They are pretty hard to get in our sizes.
The cup tires are pretty good but I personally don't like them. They are at least as fast as the nittos and like a second or so off a r6. They last about 25 hc's but then cycle out. They fall off way before that though. They are pretty hard to get in our sizes.