Motons?
#32
^^^ Sounds like you should have picked up that immaculate red gt3 in Texas with the factory a/c delete
Off topic: gooner's silver gt3 was checked by Jerry Woods today and it's good to go He's busy this week, but it seems increasingly likely there will be a gt3 in my garage sometime next week. I'm already looking for open track days...
Off topic: gooner's silver gt3 was checked by Jerry Woods today and it's good to go He's busy this week, but it seems increasingly likely there will be a gt3 in my garage sometime next week. I'm already looking for open track days...
#33
I know I'll be happy with 2 way and from what I heard 3 way aint an easy task to set up. Budget what's that? I usually tell my wife after the fact and she goes ape**** but this time around I've been real good- she has total control of house remodel and the monies for it. But whatever I do -my main thing is mentality is get it done and forget about it- I dont want alot of headaches as my car now feels great but I want to go the next step. I've been thinking bout this for some quite sometime on my gt3 so I value everyone elses opinion here. Dell u did most of the strip yourself on the bsr rt? did u do the ac delete yourself?Mike
I started with 600/800 but jacked it up when I started using slicks exclusively. Spring rate is determined by what tires you're going to run. Are you going to run a racing slick? if so you need to be all monoball or you'll have issues under load with the rubber deflecting.
If i were to do it again with my wife actually knowing what i spent (big difference from not telling her ever) I would do monoballs and clubsport doubles with 600/900 (lex likes a 300lb difference) springs for DOT tires and
1000/1300 for slicks.
While you're doing it jack up your camber for the slicks and double your tire budget, you'll get a weekend out of them.
#34
GT3 player par excellence
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#36
Hey, the Motorsports line is really expensive like 9k. I can feel the different as well as the pro drivers that have driven my car vs one with the doubles. You can fine tune things like body roll. Lex at Moton gave me the settings to use and I had my coach fine tune it.
I started with 600/800 but jacked it up when I started using slicks exclusively. Spring rate is determined by what tires you're going to run. Are you going to run a racing slick? if so you need to be all monoball or you'll have issues under load with the rubber deflecting.
If i were to do it again with my wife actually knowing what i spent (big difference from not telling her ever) I would do monoballs and clubsport doubles with 600/900 (lex likes a 300lb difference) springs for DOT tires and
1000/1300 for slicks.
While you're doing it jack up your camber for the slicks and double your tire budget, you'll get a weekend out of them.
I started with 600/800 but jacked it up when I started using slicks exclusively. Spring rate is determined by what tires you're going to run. Are you going to run a racing slick? if so you need to be all monoball or you'll have issues under load with the rubber deflecting.
If i were to do it again with my wife actually knowing what i spent (big difference from not telling her ever) I would do monoballs and clubsport doubles with 600/900 (lex likes a 300lb difference) springs for DOT tires and
1000/1300 for slicks.
While you're doing it jack up your camber for the slicks and double your tire budget, you'll get a weekend out of them.
I am running the Brand new Moton 2 Way which has done away with the External Canister (Built in now)
980lb front / 1250lb rear (this includes the Tender) and it's superb... done the exact same as yourself, now gone through 4 different sets of spring rates
I work closely with the owner of Moton (he is a good friend) and if anyone requires any advice on the new set up please feel free to give me a shout, the system is slightly different from the external canister and has a bit more droop so requires a larger Tender/Helper.
#38
I ran several different combos and the best I found to be 900F/1100R
This of course was at a track like VIR which is very smooth. At a rougher track, I'd prefer a much softer spring rate.
This of course was at a track like VIR which is very smooth. At a rougher track, I'd prefer a much softer spring rate.
#42
Peter
#43
Peter I really understand your point and everyone else that yes better to get a cupcar. My situation is I don't plan on selling my car. Also I know whatever I do to the car it wont hold water compared to a cupcar but I just want my car set up for a race ie full rollcage and all the safety stuff. God knows I'm not going to win ne races but just going out there and race that's priceless to me. I have my old spec 83 gti(street car converted to spec) and still do- it aint the fastest but still a ton of fun when it did race. Mike
#44
Really comes down to how far you want to go... My car is only used for track and is trailered constantly, I don't look at my car with a value on it's head now, I treat it like a race car and if I have an incident or bin it then so be it (Knock on wood!!!)... Peter Cups can be very expensive to maintain but a lot of this does come down to how hard you want to drive and importantly how far you want to progress with the car.
#45
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...LNK-detail.htm