About to buy a GT3, need PPI advice...
#1
Racer
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First off, thanks to all of you that have given me advice about buying a GT3, It's been very useful.
The car I'm considering was mentioned in an earlier post: 2004, 22K mi, clean, stock, no track use, PCCB, Xenon, leather, newish tires. The car has an "issue", but we agreed on a price and the seller will cover the repair for the issue.
I was recommended Jerry Wood enterprises for PPI.
What should I be asking for specifically? I know I want (1) a leak down and compression test, (2) check for any hidden body/frame repairs, (3) verify LSD condition, (4) check brake system and rotor use.
What else? I don't know what of the steering, RMS, engine, clutch, gearbox, control arms, trans, etc. should be checked. Nor do I know which ones are just impossible to check without a lot of labor.
Thanks.
The car I'm considering was mentioned in an earlier post: 2004, 22K mi, clean, stock, no track use, PCCB, Xenon, leather, newish tires. The car has an "issue", but we agreed on a price and the seller will cover the repair for the issue.
I was recommended Jerry Wood enterprises for PPI.
What should I be asking for specifically? I know I want (1) a leak down and compression test, (2) check for any hidden body/frame repairs, (3) verify LSD condition, (4) check brake system and rotor use.
What else? I don't know what of the steering, RMS, engine, clutch, gearbox, control arms, trans, etc. should be checked. Nor do I know which ones are just impossible to check without a lot of labor.
Thanks.
#2
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I would check for range 1 and range 2 overrevs. From my knowledge range 1 overrevs are fine but range 2 are not. It is very difficult to overrev these engines but not impossible. Definitely something to check otherwise you are driving a time bomb.
#3
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Your standard PPI should locate any glaring defects. Then DRIVE! You won't regret it.
-td
#4
Racer
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^^^ yeah, will definitely be looking for no type 2s. I've been obsessively looking at the 5 pics I took of the car when I went to see it, don't think I'll regret it
Assuming the PPI checks out okay and I end up purchasing the car, all I need are some pads, brake fluid, and steel rotors. Then I'm hitting the track.
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#5
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I did track my Gt3 with stock seats and 3 point for a year then added all the safety stuff down the road. There was a '10 white GT3 at Sp with NASA today in our advanced grp( we were grouped with TT as well- lotta fun). He just had reg seats and 3 point. Beautiful car. Here I am(gt3 rear) and my friend(gt3 front)- its not our car : (. Mike
#6
GT3 player par excellence
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mike, i can get you a red 2010 GT3. your wife will never be able to tell the difference.
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#8
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Mike, you brought the Gay Kramer to the track?
Did he roll anything today?
Did he roll anything today?
#10
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Type 2s will lead you to the leak down. Even with a few it is not usually a big deal. The damage if any happens at the time of the event. It does provide you with a bargaining chip. My understanding is that the pulley and pressure plate are most often the parts that take the hit. From reliable sources in the "I get paid to drive world " they have seen >9,000RPM with no damage. These are great motors.
On the PPI , make sure a real body guy looks it over. Repairs can be hidden. As long as it was done correctly the car will be sound. THe top of the front strut attachment points can be a give away.
On the PPI , make sure a real body guy looks it over. Repairs can be hidden. As long as it was done correctly the car will be sound. THe top of the front strut attachment points can be a give away.
#11
Nordschleife Master
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Type 2s will lead you to the leak down. Even with a few it is not usually a big deal. The damage if any happens at the time of the event. It does provide you with a bargaining chip. My understanding is that the pulley and pressure plate are most often the parts that take the hit. From reliable sources in the "I get paid to drive world " they have seen >9,000RPM with no damage. These are great motors.
On the PPI , make sure a real body guy looks it over. Repairs can be hidden. As long as it was done correctly the car will be sound. THe top of the front strut attachment points can be a give away.
On the PPI , make sure a real body guy looks it over. Repairs can be hidden. As long as it was done correctly the car will be sound. THe top of the front strut attachment points can be a give away.
#12
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Mike: maybe take Mooty up on his offer. Can't have you drooling every time you see a 2010 GT3. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
That's a good list. The tech will do his usual check of stuff and do a DME dump to get the overrev counts. Unless you have receipts showing recent fluid changes, I'd also budget for that as well before you track it. It would be good to have your local mechanic do that before you hit the track.
Cheers,
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Cheers,
#13
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^No wonder the backside of sp had wet spots as I was dicing with it- exhaust sound is awesome. How much does JWE charge for a ppi? Never worked with these folks but heard awesome service from the grapevine. Mike