roberga

^ +1: I was always told to start with the end that has the issue. understeer start with adjusting the front, if that does not work look at the back.

KOAN

I agree with roberga. I usually work on the problematic end. I have never used locktite on the drop link nuts, because I like to be able to adjust them. One hole on one side at a time is good for fine tuning.

CT03911

My camber is 3.25f/2.5r. I forget the toe numbers, but know they were set for turn in. The car has been great all summer but my last event at NJMP's Thunderbolt and Lightning is where I saw the understeer.
Those tracks have very slow speed corners. I am talking about making a small correction here, the car is pretty good. That and my next event is a faster track so I don't want to change the car much for that place either. I just wanted to try a small adjustment and see how it feels.
I also was trying to figure out the postion to put the car in to relieve pressure on the sway bar bolt. I thought it was jacked up. It isn't. It is a very slight lift on the rear, I don't think the tire ever broke ground.
Thanks to all on the responses, especially the tire pressure question. I wanted to make a small pressure adjustment to play with oversteer/understeer too, within the very small window that MPSC's seem to like. Knowing which way to go on pressure is one thing, I wanted to know WHY. Got it now.

roberga

Micheline recommends 1.5 to 3 , but not more than 4 degrees negative camber. You smart guys out there how would a little too much camber effect understeer?

AllanJ

I ain't that smart, but I figure if you had too much negative camber that could reduce the contact patch of the front tires. That could be the same effect as skinny front tires meaning less grip up front.

Makes sense to me....mind you, I've been drinking rum.

Cheers,

996FLT6

I was going to let the another dumb guy answer the question - thanks AllanJ : )-JK but I was going to say the same thing : ). If u got -4 or above camber and not pushing it u aint utilizing the whole tire so less grip. Regards Mike

996FLT6

Another update on u guys from up north. Trackmaster racing is also hosting Infineon Nov 6(fri)- another awesome outfit and Nasa sat/sun. Ncrc has fri too but with Thill to let u Know. Regards. I have a Bday to go to Fri Nov 6 so I mite do Trackmasters if I have that time off. Regards. Mike

AllanJ

Ha, ha! You're welcome, Mike.

Can't do early Nov because I'm in Las Vegas then. I think my season is coming to an end in a few days with a track day tomorrow and then a 2-day event Sun/Mon at Oregon Raceway Park. My wife is a little annoyed at the lack of progress on the renos around here. Oops.

Right now I'm building a tire rack for my new trailer so I'll be ready for CA next season. I'll bring my truck down empty so I can fill it up with some of Mooty's spares.

Cheers,

DavidSB

Can someone tell me the GT3 sway bar settings (holes from the ends?) as delivered?
Thanks.

996FLT6

One from stiff front/back- that's what came delivered for my car. Mike

DavidSB

Thanks. To be clear (as I'm new to this), mine are set: fronts in the 2nd hole of 5 from the bar end (not the open end), and rears in the 2nd hole of 4 from the bar end. Is this how your's came from the factory?

996FLT6

David- that's correct. Inner hole means stiffer outer hole is softer. Mike

GT3 Chuck

as others have stated...you need to adjust the end with the problem and since you are nowhere near full soft in front..move the fronts one hole away from the bar...try it and if that doesn't do it move them to full soft...should be enough to make a noticeable difference in push...be alert because the rear will want to get more active...