Final Drive ratio
#16
I know people that have paid 10 i can see why, maybe the guards diff 2500 basic model and labor for that. It's about a grand per gear so 3k and 3k labor minimum plus the diff and associated diff labor and fluids. R&P is 2600 and labor. if done in house shipping and R&R of the tranny can be 800+
12k? Where are y'all getting your prices from? While I do not have my bill in front of me, I can tell you that the re-gear of my box (3rd-6th) with cup gears and the cup clutch packs for the LSD was nowhere close to 12K!
Sorry Vic, no getting dragged into subjective argument. All I did is state the facts and why regearing is the proper way to go. As I said (and John as well) the proper order would be.......
Best---> R&P and gearing
Better--> gearing
Good --> R&P
Sorry Vic, no getting dragged into subjective argument. All I did is state the facts and why regearing is the proper way to go. As I said (and John as well) the proper order would be.......
Best---> R&P and gearing
Better--> gearing
Good --> R&P
#17
12k? Where are y'all getting your prices from? While I do not have my bill in front of me, I can tell you that the re-gear of my box (3rd-6th) with cup gears and the cup clutch packs for the LSD was nowhere close to 12K!
Sorry Vic, no getting dragged into subjective argument. All I did is state the facts and why regearing is the proper way to go. As I said (and John as well) the proper order would be.......
Best---> R&P and gearing
Better--> gearing
Good --> R&P
Sorry Vic, no getting dragged into subjective argument. All I did is state the facts and why regearing is the proper way to go. As I said (and John as well) the proper order would be.......
Best---> R&P and gearing
Better--> gearing
Good --> R&P
I agree with your best, better, good...
For DE days... I think the "good" is great... JMHO
#21
Vic....actually the gearbox does NOT need to be inspected annually. However, you can (as I do several times a year) drain the gear oil and that will tell you just what you need to know.
AKAIK....the gears are not straight cut. Maybe the sequential box. However, I don't know enough about the gears sets themselves to speak as an authority. I rely on my race shop and Greg's credentials are second to none and at no time was an annual inspection reported.
AKAIK....the gears are not straight cut. Maybe the sequential box. However, I don't know enough about the gears sets themselves to speak as an authority. I rely on my race shop and Greg's credentials are second to none and at no time was an annual inspection reported.
#25
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^ i belive first is stuck on the shaft.
so regear 2nd - 5th
move 5th to 6th.
what gear depends on what track u are on. stop messing around mike, just drive the POS you got.
so regear 2nd - 5th
move 5th to 6th.
what gear depends on what track u are on. stop messing around mike, just drive the POS you got.
#26
1st and 2nd are on the shaft so you regear 3rd-6th. You can move 5th to so technically all you are replacing is 3 gears to get 4 new gears.
Unless you are racing and have unlimited budgets then you pick a gearset that is what you are looking for and you stick with it. You need to have somebody that knows what they are doing and has data on the tracks you are trying to build the box for. Greg (my race shop owner) and Copans spent a considerable amount of time discussing what gears to to use for each (3rd-6th) to maximize the build for my needs.
Unless you are racing and have unlimited budgets then you pick a gearset that is what you are looking for and you stick with it. You need to have somebody that knows what they are doing and has data on the tracks you are trying to build the box for. Greg (my race shop owner) and Copans spent a considerable amount of time discussing what gears to to use for each (3rd-6th) to maximize the build for my needs.
#28
I bought my GT3 with a regeared transmission that blew up third gear at my first event. I sent the transmission to Copans and we agreed to use the 4.0 ring and pinion and replaced the 1st and 2nd gear shaft with the cup car shaft, which addresses the 1st gear problem already discussed. The end effect was very nicely spaced gears throughout the range. I love this combination.
Brian Copans told me the 4.0 ring and pinion has a limited life compared to stock. As I recall, he thought it should be inspected and/or replaced at 100 hours of track use.
Brian Copans told me the 4.0 ring and pinion has a limited life compared to stock. As I recall, he thought it should be inspected and/or replaced at 100 hours of track use.
#29
I blame old age.
Cheers,
#30
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I bought my GT3 with a regeared transmission that blew up third gear at my first event. I sent the transmission to Copans and we agreed to use the 4.0 ring and pinion and replaced the 1st and 2nd gear shaft with the cup car shaft, which addresses the 1st gear problem already discussed. The end effect was very nicely spaced gears throughout the range. I love this combination.
Brian Copans told me the 4.0 ring and pinion has a limited life compared to stock. As I recall, he thought it should be inspected and/or replaced at 100 hours of track use.
Brian Copans told me the 4.0 ring and pinion has a limited life compared to stock. As I recall, he thought it should be inspected and/or replaced at 100 hours of track use.
yes 4.0 has limited and shorter life than stock. no free lunch there. if i were to do it again, i would stay stock and just get a cup car. trust me, if you track that much, it will ultimately cheaper just to get the cup and not mess up the street GT3. i know b/c i never listen to my logic side and keep f'k up and dump money in the toilet.
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