Ken89911T

Anyone know why I get leak of brake fluid from the bleeders after a flush? I tighten the bleeders down pretty snug, but I still get a leak that leaves a stain of Super Blue on my pretty yellow calipers. The leak stops - there isn't a continuous flow, just enough to irritate me. Do the bleeders need to be re-tightened after the calipers heat up??

KOAN

This is usually not a problem. Are you sure there is no residue when you disconnect the waste tube from the bleeder that is dripping down? Are you using stock bleeders or speed bleeders?

Ken89911T

Chuck,

I have been very careful to wipe down the bleeder thoroughly before capping with the nipple, which I also wipe dry. I have the stock bleeders. And it keeps happening, even though I am careful not to leave ANY residue after the bleed. Damn frustrating, even though the downside is just cosmetic. But if you saw my car, you'd know how **** I am about it.

TrackDays247.com

Nipple orifice always contains fluid - there is where it lies -

va122

that's what she said.

enthusiast

I would stop using the blue and go with the equivalent brake fluid, Ate TYP 200 (gold). As Craig pointed out, there is some fluid in the bleeder so try and absorb more with a paper towel before placing the caps on.

Leigh2

Try blowing the bleed screws dry with compressed air once they're done up. If they fill up with fluid after that then you have a sealing problem with the bleed screw. Were your calipers ever re-painted? Perhaps a contaminate such as paint has gotten onto the sealing surface and is causing a slow leak. Might be worth taking the screw out completely and have a look at the tapered seats to make sure they are not damaged.

TrackDays247.com

The bleed screws/nipple always have fluid within them after a bleed -

I like the air concept -

Idea: I use an old towel to surround the nipple and *use one of those 'dust-off' office dusters with the small extension/concentration tubes they come with* - protect your eyes and anything else needed, and fire away.

Works extremely well !

GrantG

Suction might work better than compressed air (might be less mess)...

Leigh2

I was picturing covering the air nozzle and bleed nipple with a rag and firing away. Definitely not the type of stuff to get in your eyes or on the paint. Might be worth picking up a new bleed nipple from the dealer if they are available separately just in case the one that's one that's leaking isn't quite right.

TurboCup87

you can also just clean them out by spraying with brake fluid cleaner before you put the rubber caps back on. Are you sure that the fluid isn't coming out from the base of the bleeder? If so, the threads in the caliper could be mildly stripped. I had to replace a bleeder on a previous car many years ago.

springgeyser

Qtips...

Gofishracing

speedbleeders offers a thread sealer. There are now applications for GT3 that we discovered. I am using them-

The thread sealant is now available in 1/2 oz. bottles so that you can replace the sealant that has worn off over time. It comes in a plastic bottle with a brush cap applicator. It is available for $10.00 and can be used in many other situations where a quality pre-applied pipe sealant is required. A little goes a long way. The recommended procedure for applying is as follows:

Clean the Speed Bleeder with soapy water to remove any brake fluid or grease and dry. A hair dryer does this nicely. With the brush cap applicator apply a small amount of thread sealant evenly to the threaded portion of the bleeder screw. (Leave the first 1 1/2 threads uncoated. This makes it easy to start threading into the wheel cylinder or caliper without cross threading.) After it is applied, dry with a hair dryer on high setting for about 1 minute. When cool and dry it is ready for installation.

asd123

1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.

2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.

3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.

For more info visit: http://www.buybrakes.com/motive

LVDell

Asd123....you chose your first post to be digging up a year and a half old thread and then not even address the op's problem???