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ATE Cayenne rotors for GT3

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Old 06-10-2009, 02:49 PM
  #61  
AllanJ
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I change wheels all the time so I'm moving to studs too. Those little screws are helpful, but do nothing when the car is on the ground again.
Old 06-10-2009, 04:06 PM
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D-Uber Cars
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Question? For those who are worried, how hard would it be to position and drill new holes for the little screws to hold the ATE disk in place?
Old 06-10-2009, 04:49 PM
  #63  
KOAN
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Much too hard to make it worth it!
Old 06-10-2009, 04:59 PM
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AllanJ
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Originally Posted by Chuck Price
Much too hard to make it worth it!
Bah! It's cast iron....very soft. I just drilled a hole with a countersink in under a minute with a cordless drill in one of my old cup rotors.



A simple locating jig would make drilling one hole super easy. That's all you need to use one screw to hold the rotor in place. I don't see any stress on that little hole causing cracks either (unlike like the holes in the swept surface of the rotors).

YMMV, do this at your own risk, blah, blah, blah....

Cheers,
Old 06-10-2009, 05:02 PM
  #65  
85Gold
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On all my cars the 1st thing I do is throw the screws away. Nothing like having 1 frozen is the hole when you are trying to change rotors.

Peter
Old 06-10-2009, 09:48 PM
  #66  
PK996C2
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Originally Posted by Craig - RennStore.com
So the wheel studs/bolts alone serve to locate and hold the disc on?

Y I K E S
Once the caliper is back on the rotor is rock solid. As I mentioned in my previous post, if you look at the philips screws you can see from their small size that they likely contribute fairly little in keeping the rotor in place. I've put two hard braking track days on them in Monticello plus the fellow who placed his 996 Cup car in first in a couple of the Watkins Glen club races few weekends ago using these rotors - no issues.
Old 06-11-2009, 09:41 AM
  #67  
mtn 3
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Ok go ahead and laugh but what size rotors do we have 330 or 350mm? I am pretty sure 350 just want to confirm before I order. Do I need any other parts to do this? Seems like a pretty straight forward change.
All this talk just made me go look at mine and I have cracks! headed to DE this comming weekend and need to order asap. Who can get them the quickest?
Stealer quoted me $1200 for installed stock!
Old 06-11-2009, 10:27 AM
  #68  
fhp911
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The ATE Cayenne are the correct size - Part # 24.1334-7123.1. I *think* they are 350 but the box doesn't say. TRUST ME! They are correct.

Installation requires no special tools or knowledge. 68 ft-lbs torque on the caliper bolt, IMO, btw.
Old 06-11-2009, 10:48 AM
  #69  
85Gold
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Originally Posted by mtn 3
Ok go ahead and laugh but what size rotors do we have 330 or 350mm? I am pretty sure 350 just want to confirm before I order. Do I need any other parts to do this? Seems like a pretty straight forward change.
All this talk just made me go look at mine and I have cracks! headed to DE this comming weekend and need to order asap. Who can get them the quickest?
Stealer quoted me $1200 for installed stock!
350 x 34mm No other parts needed. Install and give feedback.

Peter
Old 06-11-2009, 11:44 AM
  #70  
Holger B
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Originally Posted by AllanJ
Bah! It's cast iron....very soft. I just drilled a hole with a countersink in under a minute with a cordless drill in one of my old cup rotors.
Would drilling impact the balance of the rotor?
Old 06-11-2009, 12:23 PM
  #71  
AllanJ
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Originally Posted by Holger B
Would drilling impact the balance of the rotor?
Can't see it mattering. It's ~1/4" hole with a slight countersink and it's close to the center of the rotor. Not enough mass removal to make an impact. More tire "goo" will be distributed unevenly around the tire at your first DE and would have far more of an impact than this.

IMHO of course.

I ordered a set of these ATE rotors and will be installing them probably in late July. fwiw, I don't plan on drilling a mounting hole unless the installation is a pita without them. From what I read above I think I'll be fine though.

Cheers,
Old 06-11-2009, 01:54 PM
  #72  
CWay27
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Originally Posted by Holger B
Would drilling impact the balance of the rotor?
Only if you would drill one hole on the friction portion (overhang). The hole for the philips screw is still part of the center of rotation.
Old 06-11-2009, 03:00 PM
  #73  
Rob in VA
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I think we are over thinking this. It's not like we're launching a spaceship.

The rotors are fine without the set screw.
Old 06-11-2009, 03:33 PM
  #74  
TrackDays247.com
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As a complete and total aside, I've *1* set of DeMan rotors ready to ship, discounted $100.... from $695 to $595...lowest ever.

1 set, first come, first get - e-mail rennstore@comcast.net
Old 06-11-2009, 06:56 PM
  #75  
cchan
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Originally Posted by AllanJ
Can't see it mattering. It's ~1/4" hole with a slight countersink and it's close to the center of the rotor. Not enough mass removal to make an impact. More tire "goo" will be distributed unevenly around the tire at your first DE and would have far more of an impact than this.
Plus the "missing" mass for the screw hole in the rotor is somewhat substituted by the mass of the screw, so it is would only be the net mass difference.


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