Motorsport parts
04-15-2009, 10:51 AM
#31
Advanced
Thread Starter
Shifter: 997, cup, etc.
Part Number
For the 997 shifter, 997.424.010.00
For cup shifter, still cannot find it now (will edit once come across it again)
Alternatives
Numerous Short Shifter Kits (e.g. B&M, ad nauseum)
Numerous Shift Linkages
Useful Discussion Links
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...3-shifter.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...ml#post5216191
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...mechanism.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...er-cables.html
Installation guide, courtesy of B&M:
http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/ins...uctions/67.pdf
Summary
Many have complained about the stock shifter in the 996: long throws and sloppy. People rave about the cup cables and shifter, but it is seemingly a more involved (and expensive) change. The cup cables do not just simply bolt onto stock parts and additional hardware is needed. Though some say that one needs the cup shifter with the cup cables, some (via a tech) have done this switch though details are lacking. Can presumably be reversed to go to stock.
The 997 shifter has seemingly (slightly) shorter throws, straightens out the geometry, and some of the plastic might be of better quality. This is a bolt-in modification and can be done at a fraction of the cost of the cup conversion. It significantly improves the feel of the shifting. It is also fully reversible.
Numerous short shifter on the market. There are too many to comment on all of them. Many bolt into the OEM shifter bracket, but they do require some parts to be broken. Many comment that shorter is not better and though some like this modification, the majority seem to dislike the feel of short shifters in there cars. These typically are not reversible, but a stock 996 shifter can often be purchased for peanuts.
Numerous shift linkages on the market. They replace the plastic shift linkage (996.424.147.00) with metal. They reduce another area of "slop" in the whole shifting mechanism.
All these modifications are mix and match and can be combined in numerous ways.
As an additional note on how the entire mechanism works. During numerous discussions, people keep on referring to the white cable as the cable to engage reverse. This is only partially true. The White cable (attaches to the blue shifter piece, drivers side) transmits lateral motion to the transmission: i.e. the grouping of revers, 1/2, 3/4, 5/6. The Green [or Blue in newer versions apparently, va122] cable (attaches to the black shifter piece, passenger side) transmits fore-aft motion to the transmission, i.e. odd gears (and reverse) vs. even gears.
Photos
See the discussion links and B&M instructions for detailed photos.
Editorializing
I am trying to present the facts as much as possible without interjecting my opinion--that is what the discussion links are for--but at the same time presenting personal experience may be of benefit. One of the (only) things that i did not like in the car was the shifter. I opted for the 997 shifter in conjunction with a after-marked shift linkage. The 997 shifter is notably shorter (or maybe perception). The shift linkage replace the plastic linkage with metal and is much tighter, and transmits my input (and the cars input to me) much more precisely. The combination is great. Wish i can compare to a cup shifter/linkage at some point. If i do, i will edit and add this info.
For the 997 shifter, 997.424.010.00
For cup shifter, still cannot find it now (will edit once come across it again)
Alternatives
Numerous Short Shifter Kits (e.g. B&M, ad nauseum)
Numerous Shift Linkages
Useful Discussion Links
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...3-shifter.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...ml#post5216191
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...mechanism.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...er-cables.html
Installation guide, courtesy of B&M:
http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/ins...uctions/67.pdf
Summary
Many have complained about the stock shifter in the 996: long throws and sloppy. People rave about the cup cables and shifter, but it is seemingly a more involved (and expensive) change. The cup cables do not just simply bolt onto stock parts and additional hardware is needed. Though some say that one needs the cup shifter with the cup cables, some (via a tech) have done this switch though details are lacking. Can presumably be reversed to go to stock.
The 997 shifter has seemingly (slightly) shorter throws, straightens out the geometry, and some of the plastic might be of better quality. This is a bolt-in modification and can be done at a fraction of the cost of the cup conversion. It significantly improves the feel of the shifting. It is also fully reversible.
Numerous short shifter on the market. There are too many to comment on all of them. Many bolt into the OEM shifter bracket, but they do require some parts to be broken. Many comment that shorter is not better and though some like this modification, the majority seem to dislike the feel of short shifters in there cars. These typically are not reversible, but a stock 996 shifter can often be purchased for peanuts.
Numerous shift linkages on the market. They replace the plastic shift linkage (996.424.147.00) with metal. They reduce another area of "slop" in the whole shifting mechanism.
All these modifications are mix and match and can be combined in numerous ways.
As an additional note on how the entire mechanism works. During numerous discussions, people keep on referring to the white cable as the cable to engage reverse. This is only partially true. The White cable (attaches to the blue shifter piece, drivers side) transmits lateral motion to the transmission: i.e. the grouping of revers, 1/2, 3/4, 5/6. The Green [or Blue in newer versions apparently, va122] cable (attaches to the black shifter piece, passenger side) transmits fore-aft motion to the transmission, i.e. odd gears (and reverse) vs. even gears.
Photos
See the discussion links and B&M instructions for detailed photos.
Editorializing
I am trying to present the facts as much as possible without interjecting my opinion--that is what the discussion links are for--but at the same time presenting personal experience may be of benefit. One of the (only) things that i did not like in the car was the shifter. I opted for the 997 shifter in conjunction with a after-marked shift linkage. The 997 shifter is notably shorter (or maybe perception). The shift linkage replace the plastic linkage with metal and is much tighter, and transmits my input (and the cars input to me) much more precisely. The combination is great. Wish i can compare to a cup shifter/linkage at some point. If i do, i will edit and add this info.
Last edited by fve; 04-19-2009 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Correct information
04-19-2009, 08:21 PM
#33
Advanced
Thread Starter
Limited Slip Differential, FAQ
Link to LSD FAQ and discussion: [courtesy of Enthusiast]
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...ntial-lsd.html
Will add once the DIY is added by Enthusiast.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...ntial-lsd.html
Will add once the DIY is added by Enthusiast.
04-19-2009, 10:57 PM
#34
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Frank
As for the cup splitter, I had a real hard time mounting mine because the holes did not line up perfectly with the bumper cover holes. The double sided tape made it even more diffiucult to do because you couln't adjust things as you went along. Once the surfaces touch, they stick (that's the point, after all). Because the fit wasn't perfect, it had loosened up a bit on the drive to VIR and came off anyway when I sampled the trackside grass just south of South Bend.
Talk about a work in progress.
As for the cup splitter, I had a real hard time mounting mine because the holes did not line up perfectly with the bumper cover holes. The double sided tape made it even more diffiucult to do because you couln't adjust things as you went along. Once the surfaces touch, they stick (that's the point, after all). Because the fit wasn't perfect, it had loosened up a bit on the drive to VIR and came off anyway when I sampled the trackside grass just south of South Bend.
Talk about a work in progress.
04-20-2009, 09:57 AM
#35
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Stuttgart
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I very much like the structure VFW brought into this thread: A quick overview on the stock vs. CUP parts, the pros and cons and the links to further discussions. Good stuff!
But shouldn't we better leave the discusssions around individual topics out of this summary? No doubt, these inputs from the members are great and very valuable, but IMO this could better be posted in the original threads. Just a proposal....
Wolfgang
But shouldn't we better leave the discusssions around individual topics out of this summary? No doubt, these inputs from the members are great and very valuable, but IMO this could better be posted in the original threads. Just a proposal....
Wolfgang
05-09-2014, 06:33 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Carefree,
I hope that the sheet metal screws are not too long. The reason plastic screws are used is so that when (not if) the spoiler gets ripped off again, it will come loose without taking any or all of the bumper with it. That is one reason why many of use use small plastic fasteners and tape.
I hope that the sheet metal screws are not too long. The reason plastic screws are used is so that when (not if) the spoiler gets ripped off again, it will come loose without taking any or all of the bumper with it. That is one reason why many of use use small plastic fasteners and tape.
07-26-2014, 07:48 AM
#40
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
P/n for the GT3 RS spoiler blade, carbon fiber? I may be selling mine, and looking for current price. I found Suncoast at $8200, p/n 996GT3RSSPOILER, but want to confirm. Thx
