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Those with R&P swap or re-gearing of Tranny...

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Old 01-07-2009, 10:12 AM
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AudiOn19s
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Default Those with R&P swap or re-gearing of Tranny...

Can anyone put a rought figure on how your lap times improved based on just the gearing change (either option is fine). Obviously each track is going to be a little different but I'd like to see before and after times if anyone has those.

I'd ask in the "regular" 996 forum but nobody's done this mod over there.

Thanks

Andy
Old 01-07-2009, 12:48 PM
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996FLT6
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if doing standing start racing r/p will help. Overall maybe .5 seconds. With r/p u will need to use 5th gear. 5th to 4th gear takes getting use to. I blew my pressure plate/clutch going from 5th to 2nd. Someone will chime in on changing gear ratios. Mike
Old 01-07-2009, 06:27 PM
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redcar1
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I have been deliberating this change.
I'd love to see a summary of the before and after ratios for each approach.
Is there one consensus r&p that everyone switches to?
Thanks very much,
Mark
Old 01-07-2009, 06:32 PM
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DanH
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Yeah everyone switches to the OEM cup car one!

Have you got a GT3 as if not its a different gearbox. In fact didn't think the standard 996 box was even officially serviceable?
Old 01-07-2009, 06:36 PM
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redcar1
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Originally Posted by DanH
Yeah everyone switches to the OEM cup car one!

Have you got a GT3 as if not its a different gearbox. In fact didn't think the standard 996 box was even officially serviceable?
Mine's a street 996GT3.

So, did 996GT3 cupcars have the same transmission ratios as street cars, just a different final drive? What is that r&p ratio? (What was on street cars?)

Is that a better upgrade than the trans regearing some have done?

Thanks!

Mark
Old 01-07-2009, 07:10 PM
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AudiOn19s
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Originally Posted by redcar1
Mine's a street 996GT3.

So, did 996GT3 cupcars have the same transmission ratios as street cars, just a different final drive? What is that r&p ratio? (What was on street cars?)

Is that a better upgrade than the trans regearing some have done?

Thanks!

Mark
Search for "re-gearing" (whole thread and not just title) in this forum and you'll find all of the info you could ever want on this topic....except for lap time differences it seems.

On not being able to service the G96...BOTH an 8:32 ring and pinion and re-gearing solutions are now available for my tranny. I can see why it took forever though as other than racers it seems like nobody has done this on their cars. I think it's a good way to make the best of the 295hp that I've got at my disposal!

Alas it's not a cheap option, so hearing before and after lap time improvements would be helpful in that decision.

Andy
Old 01-07-2009, 08:35 PM
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DanH
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Originally Posted by redcar1
Mine's a street 996GT3.

So, did 996GT3 cupcars have the same transmission ratios as street cars, just a different final drive? What is that r&p ratio? (What was on street cars?)

Is that a better upgrade than the trans regearing some have done?

Thanks!

Mark
I believe cupcars had different final drive + different ratios.

These mods are $$$$$!
Old 01-07-2009, 09:53 PM
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996FLT6
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I think most who have done the regear path swapped 5th gear into 6th gear and changed gears 3-5. Gear 1-2 cannot be changed unless u change the mainshaft too. R/p on the gt3 makes 1st gear kinds useless it hits rev limiter when u say "rev limiter" and top speed will go down from 191 to 178 I think. I think the LSD is by far the best mod u can do. With a higher preload LSD(stock ones don't last long and has such a low preload wheels can still spin) like a guards unit u can shave 1-2 seconds off laptimes. Mike
Old 01-07-2009, 09:58 PM
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va122
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The cup cars have a different box with different ratios. Ours has a fixed first gear (maybe second too I can't remember) where the cup box all the ratios are interchangable easily. The cup has a Long first gear and the rest are close ratio.

Ask Dell he re-geared his box, but after you do it you have to R&R it annually to service it. PITA if you ask me, but from the cups I've driven it's awesome.

I'm going to do the R&P simply b/c i'm bouncing off the rev limiter right before certain turns on my home track, I find i lose too much time upshifting and then back down a second later for the corner. Also I autoX and the lower second gear would be very effective.

The R&P from PMNA is like 2600$ and you're looking at like a grand to install it and most shops will send it to copans rather then doing it themselves. It's a real PITA b/c you have to match it up to the diff and takes a long time.

Re gearing is the best option but $$$$$ at least double the R&P option.

Careful with your choice of R&Ps PMNA stopped making the 4:0 gear b/c it kept losing a tooth (it's one tooth less then our stocker to begin with). They just started making it again with the problem corrected.
Old 01-07-2009, 10:00 PM
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va122
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Gear 1-2 cannot be changed unless u change the mainshaft too.
Exactly!
R/p on the gt3 makes 1st gear kinds useless
Yup, 20mph less in each gear.

I think the LSD is by far the best mod u can do. With a higher preload LSD(stock ones don't last long and has such a low preload wheels can still spin) like a guards unit u can shave 1-2 seconds off laptimes.

+1000!!! I just put in the Guard GT and I melted more then 2 sec off my times and the car feels phenomenal.
Old 01-07-2009, 11:01 PM
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I have the 8:32 (4.0) old school PMS ring and pinon and while I cannot comment on lap time improvements with actual data... my butt timer (left side, butt dyno is on the right side ) says it is much quicker around my local track...

regearing is the "better" way to go and I inquired about it with Rothsport in Portland and was told off the cuff $10-12K... no thanks...

I bought a slightly used ring and pinion that was rem polished (before I knew about the old ones being a problem) and have had three track days and maybe 400 street miles since installation... no problems and very glad I did it.

I am finding that I am in the "meat" of the powerband all the time... I would do it again... even with the old one.

I asked my tech about the old vs. new and he said that he is realtively sure that the failures are in cup cars that are getting hammered on... and that a few (17 last year) de days should not pose a problem... easy for him to say.

I did the whole thing for $3K and I am happy...
Old 01-08-2009, 12:33 AM
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996FLT6
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1st time having the r/p I said oh my god what a difference( have lwf too) it makes but having it for 2 years unless i'm driving someone else's stock gt3 luster has gone away. In track about only thing is 3rd gear is more livelier and in the trq band. R/P would do wonders for autocross but I think regearing is the better alternative for the track. Mike PS- still don't regret doing the r/p because I still can't afford the regearing- it's much better then stock r/p- very noticeable on the street and a tad better on the track.
Old 01-08-2009, 09:17 AM
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Great feedback. I'm still leaning towards R&P but love all of the feedback.

I'm also fortunate enough to be located about 1.5 hours from B. Copan's shop which should help some too.

Still would love to see any lap time differences if anyone has them. I'm fairly sure I'll see a decent improvement at my home track (Mid Ohio) as I mainly use 3rd and 4th the whole lap right now. There are two places where I could use 2nd but I'd have to shift prior to finishing those turns so I go through both of those locaions in 3rd and loose drive off. I also go through T1-T3 in 4th because I can't finish the front straight without a shift to 4th and I'd hit the rev limiter before the exit of T1 in 3rd too. As a result the car struggles to pull out of T1 with the current gearing.
Old 01-08-2009, 09:39 AM
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KOAN
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Andy,

I spoke with Brian yesterday about the same things. My tranny is out, and I'm in "while I'm there" mode. First, I talked to TRG. Both say that the more aggressive ramps (50 or 60/80) for the LSD are good on the track, but bad on the street. They really emphasized this. TRG says that they keep the same ramps as stock on the cars they prep for racing anyway, and just use the Motorsport steel clutch packs. Brain Copans also recommended that I just change the clutch packs too, unless I wanted to spend much more for the Guard. Since my extended warranty is paying for the packs, that is the way I will go.
I also asked Brian about the R/P change. It is about $2800. It will help a little on some tracks. I think it would help me by 1-2 secs at Mid Ohio, where I am at the top of one gear for a few seconds bouncing near redline, waiting for the next turn and downshift ( back straight, turn 2). Regearing on my 993 saved me 1-1.5 secs at Mid Ohio for the same reasons. I was shifting a lot more, but the feeling of being in the power band was great...not sure it was worth the 10k, but that depends on how many k you have.

Hope this helps.

Chuck
Old 01-08-2009, 12:11 PM
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- as pro teams regear the car for each track, i think that is your answer
- at Mosport for instance, when i went with the 4.0 with my 997gt3, the big benefit i picked up was the launch out of turn 5b the slowest section on the track just before the long back straight
- it is a second gear corner and with the stock r&p the car was low in the power band but with the 4.0 it was a few thousand rpms higher and the car just jumps out of the hole
- it also helps in turn 3 (a 3rd gear turn) where again you are more in the heart of the power range and you can still get to track out at 8400rpms just before you have to shift

- from a tracktime perspective, i don't have data but at Mosport fast is determined by the size of your ***** and turn #4 (of which you need a full cage and paid in full insurance)

- i would do it again but would re-iterate the LSD upgrade as well (i went guard but the motorsport clutchpack gets you 90% of the result)

for me, the r&p is about three things
- fun (love it changing gears)
- making second gear shorter for launching out of the hole in hair pins
- puts you in top of 3rd,4th,5th (better spacing most of the time) - avoids the low rpm 3rd gear problem of the gt3 gearing


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