See if you can get your alignment shop to do a bump steer check for you. I recently had the ERP (bump steer adjustable) toe links from Tarett installed and the shop added shims to level out the toe links.

When the corner balancing and alignment was done, the shop checked for toe changes at the rear and documented the following:

With spacers:
- each wheel would lose (toe out) 11 minutes when the rear was raised 1" from ride height.
- each wheel would gain (toe in) 14 minutes when the rear was lowered 1" from ride height.

With spacers removed:
- each wheel would lose (toe out) 6 minutes when the rear was raised 1" from ride height.
- each wheel would gain (toe in) 4 minutes when the rear was lowered 1" from ride height.

So the spacers were left out. I'm running 12 minutes of toe in for each wheel and I'm glad this check was done.

Cheers,

 

Ken, there is no "trick". There is adjustable and there is non-adjustable. If you have adjustable links then they can bump steer the car for you which is CRUCIAL to a properly setup car especially if you have a lowered ride height.

 

Thank you very much for such a detailed response.

So do you think this rubber bush in the track rod flexing is what I can feel on some corners where the car is progressively weighting up and then I feel a shift from the rear of the car as though it has just gone over a little bump and loss grip for a fraction of a second?

 

Hey Dan,

Yes. I believe the track rod replacement (upgrade) will cure about 90% of what you're noticing as you described. The other 10% would be remedied by replacing the main control arm with the RSR monoball (inboard at subframe monoball) main control arm. The upper arms don't really need to be changed, but inspecting them for torn or worn bushings is always a smart practice.

 

I think the check was done wrong, you need to check with shock removed ord spring removed so you can se whats happend in cmpression to what happnes when you jump with the car

 

Will note everything that everyone is saying in this thread and others. The guy who works on my car is also a GT3 specialist as he owns one himself as well as prepares many other customer's 3s but the dude always listens what drivers has to say. We'll work together. Thanks gents. Will update once new ones are in.

 

I have no idea what method the guy used to check this, but he is a suspension/wheel alignment expert.

 

Allan,
I also believe it was done the wrong way, how much did he charge you to measure bump steer.? I it was done by just pulling the car down/pushing it up while taking readings of his alignment screen, it was done incorrectly. Feel free to give me a call here in Van.
Bernie 604-874-0744

 

Thanks for the phone call, Bernie! When I get my schedule sorted out I'll call you to arrange a visit.

Cheers,

 

Just spent a weekend at the track and wow... new toe-links make the car pretty stable especially under acclerating out from turns. No more inconsistancies from the rear end. But, I still do feel that floating feeling (between turn 3 and 4 at Summit Main). People say it's normal for that part of the track and I may need to take a different line and turn-in point. Haven't took a pictures of the shot rod-ends yet. Will do it before I send them to Tarret for the new rod-ends replacement.

Also, I got a new alignment and shop asked me to try the a bit toe-out in the front for better turn-ins. In last alignment, I had zero toe at the front setting. Since the car also see the weekend usage on the street, wondering whether I should reset my front toe back to zero to save some tire wears. Anyone here running front toe-out spec in their cars? If so, by how much? Mine say, -0.01 minute. My steering feel a bit heavier compare to old alignment spec. Do you guys think toe-out in the front could be the reason? I also have a bit toe-in for the rear at 0.12*. My steering used to be quick and light but now it's lazy. I don't know which is normal. LoL.

 

Your steering on the street will be a bit feel like it wants to track more and feel a little darty with toe out up front. If you have alot of daily driving in the car I would go back to neutral toe. I run toe out in front but then again my car is 100% track.

 

Yup, car is a bit darty. Steering follows the bumps and cracks on the road a lot more than before. Will go back to 0 toe. Thanks for the input Dell.

 

Can't wait to do my links dammit, then the real test will be the esses at VIR haha

 

Martin, what links did you end up going with? I know GMG just released a nice set for around $600. As well as a sick bump steer kit.

 

The esses test more than just the toe arms