Greygt3

For those of you that have trailers for your cars do you have any advice for a custom build unit? I've just ordered a custom open trailer and I want to make sure I put everything on it that I need. I'm having a toolbox/tirerack done. Should I have the "D" rings placed in a specific location? I'm having the trailer axles moved back a few inches to make sure tongue weight is correct. Anything else?

Thanks,

Dean

Jetmech

Spare wheel for the trailer? Lock for your hitch, when you want to leave the trailer behind. Fuel racks?, long ramps, for our cars are very low up front....trailer brakes on both axles? just a few things that come to mind.

enthusiast

I agree with Jetmech and the ramps are a bid deal for sports cars. Aluminum would be great especially for the ramps as longer ones in steel are back breakers.

I recommend getting a trailer long enough so that you have some space to move the car for balance and tongue weight adjustments. You may haul different cars with the same trailer so the flexibility is important (not many rear engine car models out there). I say this because you said you ordered the trailer with the tandem axles located further to the rear.

What about the deck material? The wood decks weather quickly. The solid steel decks are nice.

Having several tie down points on the trailer is really helpful. Some of us tie down the car by the wheels some by the frame, either way differnet trailer tie down points allow you options. Some trailers have runners of 'E trak' or other tie down tracks for the greatest flexibility on securing the cargo (car).

RJFabCab

You're concerned about tongue weight on an open trailer with a rear engine car? You must be towing with a really small vehicle.

You may also want to consider a V-nose (like what Trailex offers on their open units).

Why not pick up an enclosed unit?

1. At the end of the track day, throw all your crap in and lock up.
2. Protect your car from foul weather during transport.
3. Potential E-track and cabinet paradise.
4. Shelter at the track when it starts pouring.
5. A little extra security when you park it... it could be empty or you might have your CGT in there.
6. No hassle unloading with a flip down door... you ever try backing off an open unit with 11 foot ramps?

multi21

What's the price delta in general terms between an open and flat trailer? This might be something I'm looking for down the road, but not at this time.

Austin

Extra long ramps, light as possible, able to be stowed underneath the trailer.

jrgordonsenior

Exactly. Look at how Featherlite designs their aluminum open trailer....

Greygt3

I forgot to mention that I already ordered:
1. extra long aluminum ramps.
2. spare tire
3. trailer has brakes on all four wheels
4. It is a all aluminum trailer.
5. Torsion axles.
I considered a enclosed trailer but it was more money than I wanted to spend.

Good tip on the different tie down locations, I'll look into that.

Crazy Canuck

torsion axles

TurboCup87

[QUOTE=RJFabCab;5103617]You're concerned about tongue weight on an open trailer with a rear engine car?


Yes, it is a major issue, but probably not as you might expect. I towed my 944T for 14 years with my Trailex trailer without any issues, even at 75+ mph. First time I tried to tow the GT3, it swayed like an absolute MF at less than 50 mph. Had to load it *** first to get to the track. This winter, I'm going to move the axles back 12" to get it back in balance. If you are custom ordering your trailer, you should tell them what you're towing and they should be able to provide you with a well balanced trailer. If the trailer is long, like many of the Featherlites, they should be able to tell you where to position the car.

ABsolutely agree with aluminum for both the trailer and the long ramps. Kyle

lightguy

IMO the Aluminum trailers are not worth the differance in price vs the minimal weight savings for recreational use.
Moving the axles will make this a one use trailer; 911s.
Difficult to resell down the road ( or worth a fortune to the 911 guys ).
You can get a good used enclosed trailer reasonabley and get all or most of your money back when you sell it.
If you go with an open trailer get a wind/stone break for the front.

RJFabCab

[QUOTE=TurboCup87;5105356]I misunderstood the original post... for some reason I thought Greygt3 was trying to lighten the tongue weight by moving the axles, hence, the comment about the small tow vehicle.

spare tire

Here is a thought that you should consider and hold firm against salesman pressure. Order the trailer as long as you can fit in your garage or driveway. Sales people and manufacturers will sell you a big enough trailer for your car. But when you go to stap it down and your rachet straps are under your lowered car and the trailer is just long enough, and it is raining so the event is over early and you are in your white driving suit laying on your back in a oily puddle you will remember this post and the guy who told you to get a trailer big enouigh for an 72 Oldsmobile Vista Crusier. What ever they try to sell you, add 4 feet and spend the extra $231.00 for wasted space. YOU WILL THANK ME!!!

Jetmech

my suggestion...$4300 New..and can keep the gear inside it..no need to unload after a long weekend.

jrok

Get two spare tires. If you hit something nasty, it will take out both on that side. It's cheap insurance.

Every time you go into Lowes/Home Depot, start looking in the wood cutting area trash bin. If there's any stubby 4x4's or 2x10's ask if you can have them. (less cranking and soft ground)

You'll want the D-rings to be a few feet away from the car.

Try to get as many of the locks keyed the same as you can.

Get it insured, it's cheap. Trailers get stolen constantly.