benjy3

Anyone know about these: 'Park-King' American-Made Four Post Residential Parking Lift by American Custom Lifts? They seem really good, with round columns and all rounded edges + have a 3 1/2" cylinder which seems unusually large, and probably a good thing. Not cheap though, although personally I would not consider a Chinese made lift under any circumstances.

Rick in Colorado

Search in the www.garagejournal.com. The two most important aspects are: the quality of the steel and the design of the locking system. Go watch the comparison video at www.backyardbuddy.com.

Beware of "assembled in the USA" (but parts made in China).

LVDell

One thing that would be nice is if these lift companies would publish the pricing in addition to their specs. I have scoured several different lift companies websites and NONE listed their pricing. I'm not going to spend a minute of time on the phone with a salesman that has different pricing structures depending on how he feels that day. I'd like to be able to spend a short amount of time, list all the possible candidates, their specs, pro/cons, and COST!

I am sure there are some potential issues with buying a product made outside the US (namely Asian) but I haven't heard all the horror stories that the US dealers want you to believe are out there.

K964

Chinese, Japanese, Dirty Knees, Look at these, Money Please......

I agree with you on the pricing---how hard is that to publish?

Mr Michael B

I just went & looked all over my Direct Lift. I cant find any indication that it is anything but a big heavy lift. As a matter of fact the electric and hydraulic hard parts are made in Rockford, IL. I think the rest is made out of 57 Chevy.

LVDell

Michael, what did the Direct Lift cost? What about installation? How long have you had it? Any complaints to date? Thanks!

Mr Michael B

Dell, it was about $1600, and they sent a rep to install it (alone) which took him about three hours (they wanted my business for another product they sell so they did a bit extra for me).

I have 12 lifts total in my ownership from H U G E all the way down to this Pro Park 7. I own nearly every type of industrial/commercial version sold (all the USA brands included). It is a qualty unit in comparison with all of them. I have probably sold a dozen of them from guys just looking at mine. I dont tell anyone to buy it, I just let them see me work with mine and they call the place. However, it is indeed Asian made (with an Illinois powerplant).

So is Rotary though (as I just found out). Check this link:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Articles.asp?ID=152

Edit: Oh... I have had this one for about two years.

Chads996

What is the minimum concrete floor thickness required for the 4-post lifts? Backyard buddy?

Thanks,
C.

Mr Michael B

Q: What type of concrete is needed for a safe installation?

A: Two post and four post lifts require about the same depth of concrete. The larger capacity lifts will require more concrete depth than the lighter capacity lifts.

A two post, when lifting a car, is exerting an enormous amount of pressure on the “heels” of the column bases. The columns are “held” into the floor by anchor bolts, and (in the case of an overhead lift) the columns are also being held apart at the top by the cross bar. The depth and grade of concrete are more of an important factor in the anchoring of a two post than a four post lift. A four post lift (when loaded) has the weight actually trying to drive the base the columns through the concrete. A loaded four post lift is actually more stable than an empty four post lift.

Typically you will need four inches of concrete (3000 PSI) to properly support our two post lifts up to our 10,000 LB. capacity lifts. Our ProV12 (12,000 LB.) two post lift requires six inches. All our four post lifts, except our Atlas Pro14K (which requires six inches), require four inches of concrete.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Articles.asp?ID=160

mfennell

The ProPark sliding jacks are 2 for $900 when you buy them with a lift. They're hydraulic but manual.

I helped install a ProPark 7 from Greg Smith a few weeks ago. It went together nicely and seemed pretty well made.

Paul 996

Mfennell... thanks. I guess the sliding jacks are the best way to go with a 4 post lift.

john0719

Guys, how about a single post lifht like this one? Will it be strong enough to hold the weight of a car over time?

http://www.aclifts.com/parking/M1-65...%20FOR%20QUOTE

997Heaven

i put a Danmar 4 post in about 2 years ago .. no problems thus far ..cost around 1850 delivered.. wifey helped with install ..not hard at all..

Crazy Canuck

I believe he is Apex GT

jrgordonsenior

It always bothers me when I read that you can install these lifts on a 4inch slab. It reallty depends on the concrete and rebar in the slab and unless it's new you don't really know what's in the mix. You're going to being putting over 3,500 lbs. on 2 or 4 little feet. I would absolutely cut out and pour a 2ft. x 2ft.x 2ft deep footing with a healthy #5 bar grid and dowels into or under the surrounding slab. I would also use 16" deep anchor bolts into this footing. Of course I'm in So Cal where we got a whole lot of shakin goin on....