Cost of PCCB Pads
#16
Former Vendor
PMNA Greens.
Reading Rennlist, people report longer wear and less chunking with the Greens - which apparently reportedly contributes to an early rotor demise.
I've got em right here in stock.
Reading Rennlist, people report longer wear and less chunking with the Greens - which apparently reportedly contributes to an early rotor demise.
I've got em right here in stock.
#18
I've got on order a full set of street pads and cup ducts.
Was told by a couple different people that I trust that the race pads, unless up to temp, will wear the rotors significantly faster than the street pads, and I don't want that; I want the pads to be the consumables, not the rotors
Was told by a couple different people that I trust that the race pads, unless up to temp, will wear the rotors significantly faster than the street pads, and I don't want that; I want the pads to be the consumables, not the rotors
#19
Still plays with cars.
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
SH - Suggest you check. When I had my GT2, Porsche issued warnings about using street pads on the track with PCCB. On the Gen I PCCB, the street pads would overheat, crack and literally fall apart resulting in metal to rotor contact. Bad, very bad. Make sure that this is no longer an issue!
#20
SH - Suggest you check. When I had my GT2, Porsche issued warnings about using street pads on the track with PCCB. On the Gen I PCCB, the street pads would overheat, crack and literally fall apart resulting in metal to rotor contact. Bad, very bad. Make sure that this is no longer an issue!
I’m not that fast to begin with, and the new pads and ducts are my 1st line of defense; SRF is a close 2nd. The currently installed pads will be taken to the track also as a spare set; driving home is not optional, but a requirement. Also, I’ll be taking it pretty easy for my first event with the car.
I of course welcome any other feedback you might have.
#21
Nordschleife Master
So possibly stock pads for the street and PMNA greens for the track? Anybody have an operting temp/friction chart for the PMNA greens like Pagid has for their lineup?
#23
Burning Brakes
I’m not that fast to begin with, and the new pads and ducts are my 1st line of defense; SRF is a close 2nd. The currently installed pads will be taken to the track also as a spare set; driving home is not optional, but a requirement. Also, I’ll be taking it pretty easy for my first event with the car.
I of course welcome any other feedback you might have.
I would strongly recommend not taking the street pads on the track, they will be gone in 1 day
#24
Burning Brakes
#25
Former Vendor
SH - Suggest you check. When I had my GT2, Porsche issued warnings about using street pads on the track with PCCB. On the Gen I PCCB, the street pads would overheat, crack and literally fall apart resulting in metal to rotor contact. Bad, very bad. Make sure that this is no longer an issue!
+++++ a big 1
+++++ a big 1
#26
I'll weigh in a bit here. My car has 56,000 miles on the original gen 1 PCCB rotors. I now have something like 10-12 track days on them and many, many auto-x's. I don't know what the previous owners history was (car had 41,500 miles on it when I bought it). Rotors still look great and my last set of pads lasted about 7,000 street miles, many auto-xs, and 8-10 track days. They still had close to 50% pad left but the rule is, don't let it get lower than that as they can overheat and kill your rotors. I have cup brake ducts in front, I am not the fasted guy out there but I am not thinking about conserving my brakes while I'm driving and I drive as fast as my skill allows. It has been driven hard by an instructor who left foot brakes with no ill effects. I love the feel of the ceramics and I think if properly maintained, may not represent such a bad deal on the track. I have heard of folks with 80-100 days on one set of rotors. Try that with steel! Don't fear the ceramics!
#27
Former Vendor
It's a combination of thing - my opinion, based on 7 yrs of this:
Almost 1/4 pad remaining - TOSS EM
Chunked OEM pad - disc injury
Luck and good or bad fortune
Almost 1/4 pad remaining - TOSS EM
Chunked OEM pad - disc injury
Luck and good or bad fortune
#29
SH - Suggest you check. When I had my GT2, Porsche issued warnings about using street pads on the track with PCCB. On the Gen I PCCB, the street pads would overheat, crack and literally fall apart resulting in metal to rotor contact. Bad, very bad. Make sure that this is no longer an issue! +++++ a big 1
I'll weigh in a bit here. My car has 56,000 miles on the original gen 1 PCCB rotors. I now have something like 10-12 track days on them and many, many auto-x's. I don't know what the previous owners history was (car had 41,500 miles on it when I bought it). Rotors still look great and my last set of pads lasted about 7,000 street miles, many auto-xs, and 8-10 track days. They still had close to 50% pad left but the rule is, don't let it get lower than that as they can overheat and kill your rotors. I have cup brake ducts in front, I am not the fasted guy out there but I am not thinking about conserving my brakes while I'm driving and I drive as fast as my skill allows. It has been driven hard by an instructor who left foot brakes with no ill effects. I love the feel of the ceramics and I think if properly maintained, may not represent such a bad deal on the track. I have heard of folks with 80-100 days on one set of rotors. Try that with steel! Don't fear the ceramics!
Good point. All I know is VIR, but I hear CMP can be tough on them.
Again, new track, new car, just about new everything, so I'm not planning on pushing it very hard at all.
All great feedback, thanks guys. I did wind up purchasing a set of the PMNA Greens from Craig, just to be extra safe.
So it sounds my my new recipe is new Greens, Cup ducts, and SRF.
Now, if I can just get the car.......