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Cost of PCCB Pads

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Old 01-12-2010, 07:57 PM
  #16  
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PMNA Greens.

Reading Rennlist, people report longer wear and less chunking with the Greens - which apparently reportedly contributes to an early rotor demise.

I've got em right here in stock.
Old 01-14-2010, 01:25 PM
  #17  
mkk62
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how are the PMNA greens on the street?

thanks
mk
Old 01-14-2010, 01:42 PM
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SH || NC
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I've got on order a full set of street pads and cup ducts.

Was told by a couple different people that I trust that the race pads, unless up to temp, will wear the rotors significantly faster than the street pads, and I don't want that; I want the pads to be the consumables, not the rotors
Old 01-14-2010, 02:12 PM
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Bob Rouleau

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SH - Suggest you check. When I had my GT2, Porsche issued warnings about using street pads on the track with PCCB. On the Gen I PCCB, the street pads would overheat, crack and literally fall apart resulting in metal to rotor contact. Bad, very bad. Make sure that this is no longer an issue!
Old 01-14-2010, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Rouleau
SH - Suggest you check. When I had my GT2, Porsche issued warnings about using street pads on the track with PCCB. On the Gen I PCCB, the street pads would overheat, crack and literally fall apart resulting in metal to rotor contact. Bad, very bad. Make sure that this is no longer an issue!
Thanks Bob. I have been reading up on the PCCBs and track usage here on RL. From what I have read here and the TSB (read: OK for circuit driving), I think if I keep them relatively cool and manage them properly, I should be OK. I will most certainly be keeping a close eye on the system.

I’m not that fast to begin with, and the new pads and ducts are my 1st line of defense; SRF is a close 2nd. The currently installed pads will be taken to the track also as a spare set; driving home is not optional, but a requirement. Also, I’ll be taking it pretty easy for my first event with the car.

I of course welcome any other feedback you might have.
Old 01-14-2010, 05:39 PM
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So possibly stock pads for the street and PMNA greens for the track? Anybody have an operting temp/friction chart for the PMNA greens like Pagid has for their lineup?
Old 01-14-2010, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mkk62
how are the PMNA greens on the street?

thanks
mk
better than steel with rs29s but not as nice as street pads
Old 01-14-2010, 11:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by SH || NC

I’m not that fast to begin with, and the new pads and ducts are my 1st line of defense; SRF is a close 2nd. The currently installed pads will be taken to the track also as a spare set; driving home is not optional, but a requirement. Also, I’ll be taking it pretty easy for my first event with the car.

I of course welcome any other feedback you might have.
If you are not a fast guy you are likely braking more than the fast guys

I would strongly recommend not taking the street pads on the track, they will be gone in 1 day
Old 01-14-2010, 11:13 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Craig - RennStore.com
PMNA Greens.

Reading Rennlist, people report longer wear and less chunking with the Greens .
15+ days on rear greens, still > 50%
Old 01-14-2010, 11:38 PM
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SH - Suggest you check. When I had my GT2, Porsche issued warnings about using street pads on the track with PCCB. On the Gen I PCCB, the street pads would overheat, crack and literally fall apart resulting in metal to rotor contact. Bad, very bad. Make sure that this is no longer an issue!


+++++ a big 1
Old 01-15-2010, 12:22 AM
  #26  
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I'll weigh in a bit here. My car has 56,000 miles on the original gen 1 PCCB rotors. I now have something like 10-12 track days on them and many, many auto-x's. I don't know what the previous owners history was (car had 41,500 miles on it when I bought it). Rotors still look great and my last set of pads lasted about 7,000 street miles, many auto-xs, and 8-10 track days. They still had close to 50% pad left but the rule is, don't let it get lower than that as they can overheat and kill your rotors. I have cup brake ducts in front, I am not the fasted guy out there but I am not thinking about conserving my brakes while I'm driving and I drive as fast as my skill allows. It has been driven hard by an instructor who left foot brakes with no ill effects. I love the feel of the ceramics and I think if properly maintained, may not represent such a bad deal on the track. I have heard of folks with 80-100 days on one set of rotors. Try that with steel! Don't fear the ceramics!
Old 01-15-2010, 01:18 AM
  #27  
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It's a combination of thing - my opinion, based on 7 yrs of this:

Almost 1/4 pad remaining - TOSS EM
Chunked OEM pad - disc injury
Luck and good or bad fortune
Old 01-15-2010, 01:24 AM
  #28  
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Track config matters a ton too. Some tracks are brutal on brakes.
Old 01-15-2010, 08:42 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Backmarker
If you are not a fast guy you are likely braking more than the fast guys. I would strongly recommend not taking the street pads on the track, they will be gone in 1 day
This is an interesting concept, thanks; never considered that.

Originally Posted by Craig - RennStore.com
SH - Suggest you check. When I had my GT2, Porsche issued warnings about using street pads on the track with PCCB. On the Gen I PCCB, the street pads would overheat, crack and literally fall apart resulting in metal to rotor contact. Bad, very bad. Make sure that this is no longer an issue! +++++ a big 1
Right. I've been reading and re-reading the TSB. It says in plain English "Suitable for circuit use" for the Standard Brake Pad PCCB For Sport Driving Street Use.

Originally Posted by johnr265
I'll weigh in a bit here. My car has 56,000 miles on the original gen 1 PCCB rotors. I now have something like 10-12 track days on them and many, many auto-x's. I don't know what the previous owners history was (car had 41,500 miles on it when I bought it). Rotors still look great and my last set of pads lasted about 7,000 street miles, many auto-xs, and 8-10 track days. They still had close to 50% pad left but the rule is, don't let it get lower than that as they can overheat and kill your rotors. I have cup brake ducts in front, I am not the fasted guy out there but I am not thinking about conserving my brakes while I'm driving and I drive as fast as my skill allows. It has been driven hard by an instructor who left foot brakes with no ill effects. I love the feel of the ceramics and I think if properly maintained, may not represent such a bad deal on the track. I have heard of folks with 80-100 days on one set of rotors. Try that with steel! Don't fear the ceramics!
I had read a few more posts like this and I bought into it; managed properly, they will do fine. Posts like yours give me pause that the ceramics are not as fragile as most posts convey, however, I think most guys here are harder on their brakes than you and I perhaps, and can (and have!) easily destroy them.

Originally Posted by AllanJ
Track config matters a ton too. Some tracks are brutal on brakes.
Good point. All I know is VIR, but I hear CMP can be tough on them.

Again, new track, new car, just about new everything, so I'm not planning on pushing it very hard at all.

All great feedback, thanks guys. I did wind up purchasing a set of the PMNA Greens from Craig, just to be extra safe.

So it sounds my my new recipe is new Greens, Cup ducts, and SRF.

Now, if I can just get the car.......
Old 01-15-2010, 08:45 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SH || NC
...... so I'm not planning on pushing it very hard at all.


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