So I took my car in for an alignment yesterday. I asked the tech to set it up according to Kussmaul's recommodations for the street GT3.
He was able to match everything else, except for:

1. Ride height at front, Kussmaul 115mm, and my car would only go as low as 120mm.

2. Camber at front, Kussmaul -2.5 dgr, my car wold only go -1.4 dgr.


Now I'm obviously not too worried about the 5mm height difference but I'm wondering if the inadequate negative camber leaves me longing for something?
Is the car now really in "Kussmaul tune" with such a major difference up front?
Could this mean the car is more understeering than what it would be if the camber was set according to the specs?

I haven't had a chance to push the car so I would see if it understeers now or anything, but for the 30 miles I drove with it yesterday, it feels absolutely beautiful! Huge difference to pre-alignment feel! (I don't know how much my alignment was off from the factory specs when we started but my tech told me he had to do a LOT of adjusting to get to the Kussmaul specs.)

Now the question is, should I get shorter springs to achieve that 5mm drop and more importantly get the camber to -2.5dgr...?
Also, are there aftermarket springs I could use with the stock shocks?

Thanks for your input in advance!!

Juha

 

What kind of tires are you using, how much pressure on them?

You need to add 7mm of shims to reach the -2.5 of camber, or rotate the studs on the strut mounts.

The car will reduce the front height by using either approach to obtain -2.5 front camber.

 

Damn, you are a living GT3 databank!!

I'm running PS2's, 235/40/18 fr and 295/30/18 r, on the street 34psi/38psi (fr/r) cold. at the track same but hot.
I think they tried rotating the studs but couldn't get more out of it.
So shims would be a better way to go? That would be great since I really like the ride on stock suspension, not sure if I want to make it any stiffer. (at least yet).

Thanks for the info!

 

Juha, the max I could get when I was 100% stock was -1.5 up front. I had my studs rotated and not I have a floor of -2.59 and a ceiling of about -4.0

There are 2 ways to do it. Shims and rotating. This is like exhausts and tires, to each his own. Personally when I did the research I passed on shims and chose to rotate. Shims will introduce alot more caster than rotating. Other than that either way gets you what you need.

 

hmm... so rotating should work. I'm gonna call my shop monday and see if they could have another try at it! I would hate to dislike the Kussmaul settings due to incorrect camber in the front...

I can see how rotating is the better alternative too, I guess the only downside is that then you cannot run "normal" camber on the front anymore.
Rotating will also save a few grams of weight over adding shims...

Thanks for the hint!

 

juha, do some research on rotating the mount...the studs actually have to be moved to the other holes...if they just tried rotating with the studs in the same holes it won't work....

 

Check out this post to see the instructions for rotating the camber plates.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...78&postcount=7

 

Thanks!!

I love this site!!!

I hope some day I will also be able to contribute to this site like you guys do!