FixedWing

Another possible option, if there is the roof clearance, would be to raise the floor of the garage so that it was no longer flat but was instead ramped at an angle as close as possible to the the driveway angle. Not pretty but it might work.

Stephen

RussellNYC

What about slightly inclined (trapezoidal) blocks or speedbumps that I can place both on the driveway and in the garage to lift the front and rear of the car simultaneously over the peak?

As for NYC, I agree, but I'm not planning to drive it here much. Mostly for track work and weekend twisties outside the city.

RussellNYC

By the way, my other options here in the 60-80k price range seem to be the 996TT and 997S. My thought is that for tracking the car, which is what I most want to do, both will pale significantly next to the GT3. My other option (and the closest contender) would be an Elise or Exige, I suppose. But I've dreamed about the GT3 since it came out, and about the 911 since I was born. It's not like I'm in a hurry for any legitimate reason, but I sure am impatient to get one.

FixedWing

Yes, it might help. The speed bump in the garage would need to be placed in at the point half the wheel base of the car. So it would be specific to the car but maybe it could be made of wood so it could be moved for other cars. It could also be no higher than the ground clearance of the car. The only way to know if it would be enough would be to try it.

Stephen

Marv

If you would consider paying 10K for driveway improvements, how far would 10K go for secure parking somewhere else?

RussellNYC

In my neighborhood, there just isn't any. I'd be looking at garaging the car in Manhattan near my office for $350 a month, but that would introduce all kind of ridiculous inconvenience into the equation. At that point, I'd be giving up on the GT3.

Weird, I have been searching the internet like crazy for tips on getting cars up steep driveways and there just isn't anything useful.

Moogle

Redo the driveway.

ssarchi

As an architect who has worked on this problem with numerous clients, the answers are above:
1. Lower the floor of the garage to an acceptable angle which the car can navigate (expensive)
or
2. Change the angle of the garage floor to match that of the drive less a few degrees

Never done number two but as long as the clearance on the house side of the garage is adequate, it would work and can be done for a "reasonable amount"

Blacksport350

I have seen the above done in this exact situation and it works great! It ruins the garage for working on cars and practical storage as everything will be on an incline but isn't too expensive and will allow you to get the car in.

CT03911

Find a welding/ steel fab shop in the area. Have the steel guys fab a couple of ramps say 16" wide out of 1/2 inch steel plate. Run the ramps from the lip of the garage to the length required to be out in front of the car. Place them in line with the wheel tracks, the extra width for security, you can go wider too. They can weld side plates on the ramps for longitudinal rigidity, maybe two inches high, no clearance issues there.

Along the front weld additional steel bar to connect the two ramps, I'm thinking around 18" in front of the bumper. Make it very stiff at the two front conrners and build in two attach points, heavy duty style. Buy an electric winch to ceiling mount capable of weights well above 3k. You can brace the ceiling area with more steel bar up from floor to ceiling and a crossmember. Think I-beam style, beefy, relatively cheap, a good attatch point though.

Now you can drive your car up the drive way, into the garage on the ramps, park it, get out and lower it. Better yet get another winch and tow the car up the drive to the garage. You can attach to the car a variety of ways, front tow hook. rear hook. Autometrics tow hooks on the frame, etc, or a combination.

I would use jacks to position under the ramps upon entry as a stabilizing brace and lower the jacks a bit and winch it down then lower the jacks a bit more and so on. They will keep the car on the ramps from dipping to the driver or pax side as a safety measure.

Pyramids were bulit by hand and we went to the moon. You can get a GT3 home with steel and winches and it is all removable should the next owner not share your passion.

GT3 Chuck

CTO3911 almost hit the mark dead on...the idea of a ramp is not a bad idea...the ramp could begin at the garage entry and continue to slope upward to prevent any bottoming out at that point...that upward slant can then gently reduce angle to being level by mid point of your garage so the car will park level...although, a few feet above the ground...you can even have a platform with a step down for when you get out of the car...the roof of the car is so low this should even work if you have an 8' ceiling...good idea CTO....

I know this is crude...but you get the idea...you could even make the top of the ramp out of sheet steel so you could jack the car on the ramp and work underneath...good luck...

Duane993

Buy a GT3RS, it's even lower and then you'll have no option but to sell your house. It's worth it.

GT3 Chuck

GT3.my

Since you say you won't be driving it frequently, just get those ramps from the link you posted and use them if and when you need to.

Living in an apartment, I scrape the front lip everytime I enter the underground garage, and my ramp's definitely alot less steep than your's. Doesn't seem to have done any damage so far, though it does sound sickening.

khaug

My Porsche "Service Information" publication, says to treat front spoiler lips as wear items. like brake pads! Given the damage observed on my 997 GT3, this is rational advice!

Just bite the bullet, go for a quantity price on the spoiler and change it as needed. Mine is horrendous at 2400 miles! And it's lower than the 996 GTR3 cars, so quityerbitchin!