ArcticFox

I am at the shop right now and the rear tow will not come into spec. I/we suspect that the rubber bushing has given up.

I would like to go to an agjustable arm and get away from the eccentric bolt but do not know who would have these. I did a search and am still not sure who carries these.

I figure I will go ahead and do the camber control arm too.

Any recommendations/links/costs would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Tim

Holger B

Here's what I have:
http://www.tarett.com/Browse_Item_De...ontrol_Arm_(pr)
http://www.tarett.com/Browse_Item_De...Item_ID/978274

No eccentric & works great. Doing much fewer alignments now.

mooty

i believe austin at TRG also have some.

NelsonF

I'll vouch for the Tarett toe arms too. Just the ticket on GT3's for improved alignment life.

NJ-GT

Go with the Tarret toe arms if you run the stock ride height. Go with the Cup ones if you run a lowered car. Get new toe eccentric bolts, nuts and washers. Install the new arms with the bolts set all the way to the inside (toward the subframe's center).

If you set brand new eccentric bolts in one position, they won't move. I've almost 6 months with a similar setting, and the rear alignment has not moved at all.

RayGT3

I have Tarett arms #1 & 2 in my car, can't go wrong with these. No eccentric.

Blacksport350

I haved the Tarret arms and they now have a kit to remove the eccentric bolts so no worries on movement anymore. Build quality is OEM and they are very easy to adjust. Oh, they are very easy to install, I did one side and my wife did the other. Granted that I havce an amazing wife but if a women can do it....

Mike K.

I have the Tarrett toe links and think they are Great. I suggest that anybody that tracks their car change immediately. I have had some very scary incidents in high speed sweepers that I can only attribute to changes in the rear toe. The original arms just do not hold their position.
I looked at the site and saw that the latest locking plate kit( http://www.tarett.com/images/images_...KPLT01%20s.jpg ) is different than the one that I was supplied ( pic below showing how not to install) . I know I was one of the first to get this version and was wondering why they changed it ?
I installed mine wrong the first time which made for some very exciting rear steering.

ArcticFox

Thanks for all the info guys. Sounds like I will just go with Tarret.

Should I consider also changing the camber links? Just curious...I figure if they are an issue too, I might as well knock it all out in one shot.

The car IS lowered somewhat. Andrew had it aligned and lowered to the "ring" specs...I forgot exactly what it was, or from whom, but that is how I remember it. I know that will make it tougher on some of the nuts and bolts....

Thanks again for the input...Tim

Blacksport350

The kit was changed because when I got my hands on the prototype, I discorved that the bolt position through the metal plates would not allow the plate to fully bottom out(full negative) on the rear of the subframe as it bottomed out on the front first. The bolt was moved to the center to correct this. I don't think the earlier version would have been a problem, it just wasn't perfect.

ArcticFox

One more try to see if any of the other arms shoud be changed? Is the camber arm a problem too? What about the front?

Blacksport350

The camber arm does not appear to be nearly as much of an issue due to the way that it is loaded so I wouldn't worry about it as long as everything is in good shape. Maybe replace the adjuster bolt just to be safe if there is any question.

As to the front, it seems to hold up too. It is just the rear toe arm that was a really bad design and especially prone to moving when stressed.

Good luck!

ArcticFox

Many thanks!

Rickard 993 Turbo

Is this becouse of the cup one has the spacer to correct the bump stear..?

Anyone have a picture of the Cup one

NJ-GT

Correct.

This is the same unit I've in my car. This picture is from the 997 RSR. Notice that they use a spacer ring on top of the monoball bearing and one below. The one that matters is the one between the carrier and the toe link.

In my car I've both 5mm spacers on top.

Because of the suspension design, front and rear compression causes toe-out in the 996 and 997.