Help - Rear toe control arm replacement
02-07-2007, 08:33 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
so there is not a perfect one thenm the tarrett one eliminates the exentric but will not correct bump steer and the cup one have the exentric but reduse bumps steer
Tarrett is 450+ 85
Cup is 1000
Is this the right info
Tarrett is 450+ 85
Cup is 1000
Is this the right info
02-07-2007, 08:54 PM
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You can get the 997 GT3 Cup or 997 GT3 RSR subframes (no guided hole anymore) and use the Cup links.
You can also use the Tarret bolts and locking plates with the stock Cup toe link.
We put new eccentric bolts, we marked them and they haven't moved yet. I don't need to move them anymore as the adjustment is done with the threaded link.
You can also use the Tarret bolts and locking plates with the stock Cup toe link.
We put new eccentric bolts, we marked them and they haven't moved yet. I don't need to move them anymore as the adjustment is done with the threaded link.
02-07-2007, 09:05 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by NJ-GT
You can get the 997 GT3 Cup or 997 GT3 RSR subframes (no guided hole anymore) and use the Cup links.
You can also use the Tarret bolts and locking plates with the stock Cup toe link.
We put new eccentric bolts, we marked them and they haven't moved yet. I don't need to move them anymore as the adjustment is done with the threaded link.
You can also use the Tarret bolts and locking plates with the stock Cup toe link.
We put new eccentric bolts, we marked them and they haven't moved yet. I don't need to move them anymore as the adjustment is done with the threaded link.
seems a lite to expensive for me...
Can not the tarrett ones be modded so you can use the spacers to adjust bumps steer..?
02-07-2007, 09:11 PM
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Is the car on your sig a GT2? are you still using Euros?
No, the Tarret link can't use spacers, because the ball joint is sealed. However, they're a big improvement, and as long as you're running stock ride height, you should be fine.
No, the Tarret link can't use spacers, because the ball joint is sealed. However, they're a big improvement, and as long as you're running stock ride height, you should be fine.
02-08-2007, 06:46 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by NJ-GT
Is the car on your sig a GT2? are you still using Euros?
No, the Tarret link can't use spacers, because the ball joint is sealed. However, they're a big improvement, and as long as you're running stock ride height, you should be fine.
No, the Tarret link can't use spacers, because the ball joint is sealed. However, they're a big improvement, and as long as you're running stock ride height, you should be fine.
Im from Sweden and we dont have euros, we have swedich kronors..
This winte rmy car has gotten new BBS motorsport wheels with Yohoma 048 R tires and Öhlins Clubsport suspentions so im thinking to lower it some from factory spec...So i think the cup ones would be best
02-09-2007, 08:32 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by ArcticFox
I am at the shop right now and the rear tow will not come into spec. I/we suspect that the rubber bushing has given up.
I would like to go to an agjustable arm and get away from the eccentric bolt but do not know who would have these. I did a search and am still not sure who carries these.
I figure I will go ahead and do the camber control arm too.
Any recommendations/links/costs would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Tim
I would like to go to an agjustable arm and get away from the eccentric bolt but do not know who would have these. I did a search and am still not sure who carries these.
I figure I will go ahead and do the camber control arm too.
Any recommendations/links/costs would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Tim
Last edited by Analog Theory; 02-09-2007 at 09:03 PM.
02-09-2007, 10:22 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Atangi,
Also looks like the eccentric is in a less than optimal position, the slot slopes down to it's current position and you are lowering the outboard side to compensate. If you turn the eccentric 180 deg it will move the inboard attachment point up about 3/8" and you won't have to drop the outboard side as much. As you move the eccentric from outside to inside you also move the position from down to up. The lower you move the outboard connection the weaker the whole assy. becomes.
Also looks like the eccentric is in a less than optimal position, the slot slopes down to it's current position and you are lowering the outboard side to compensate. If you turn the eccentric 180 deg it will move the inboard attachment point up about 3/8" and you won't have to drop the outboard side as much. As you move the eccentric from outside to inside you also move the position from down to up. The lower you move the outboard connection the weaker the whole assy. becomes.
