Best tie down points?
#16
Originally Posted by TonyN
Well I'm not sure that we are all wrong, but you do have a valid alternative suggestion<g>. What's a kinedyne strap and where do you get it ?
i used them in a 24 ft enclosed trailer all the time so its no issue
#17
Rennlist Member
We are not wrong! Several ways to do this. I guess you think Porsche AG is wrong for using the wheel stub axle with purpose built, center lock tie down hook for the 993 and 996 race cars .
#18
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I'm trying to figure out what is needed to get the RR to work.
Same problem and fixed it by doing two things.
One was attaching a small "link" to the tie down and extending a bit.
The second fix is to bend the tie down itself down a bit, that also took the tie down further away from the oil return.
One was attaching a small "link" to the tie down and extending a bit.
The second fix is to bend the tie down itself down a bit, that also took the tie down further away from the oil return.
#20
Rennlist Member
I've been using Rennline tie down mounts on several cars. Rennline
They are hard, secure mounts. Easy to install and secure. They don't hang down so there are no clearance issues. Very easy to tie down. Very strong too.
I don't using wheel straps - just IMHO, but it puts load on the alignment. The Rennline ones are easier to use too. Reach under, hook and you are done.
I would not use the front jack points. Some do, but indeed attaching there depends on continued load to stay attached. Stretch the strap, have it slip - whatever and it is gone. I've seen a car back off a trailer on the highway because of this.
They are hard, secure mounts. Easy to install and secure. They don't hang down so there are no clearance issues. Very easy to tie down. Very strong too.
I don't using wheel straps - just IMHO, but it puts load on the alignment. The Rennline ones are easier to use too. Reach under, hook and you are done.
I would not use the front jack points. Some do, but indeed attaching there depends on continued load to stay attached. Stretch the strap, have it slip - whatever and it is gone. I've seen a car back off a trailer on the highway because of this.
#21
I've been using Rennline tie down mounts on several cars. Rennline
They are hard, secure mounts. Easy to install and secure. They don't hang down so there are no clearance issues. Very easy to tie down. Very strong too.
They are hard, secure mounts. Easy to install and secure. They don't hang down so there are no clearance issues. Very easy to tie down. Very strong too.
Where exactly did you mount the rear tiedowns on your car? Did you replace the factory bolts with something longer to make up for the thickness of the tiedown?
#22
Race Car
With the rennline tie downs, specifically the front are you guys having any interference issues with the straps and the front splitter or is that a non issue?
I like the idea of these on the rear. The idea of moving the ratchet points on the front inward makes me worry about clearance issues with my straps.
I used wheel straps last year without issue, revisiting the whole setup this year so welcome any feedback on these tie downs. Pictures of cars strapped down with the rennline mounts (front) would be really helpful.
I like the idea of these on the rear. The idea of moving the ratchet points on the front inward makes me worry about clearance issues with my straps.
I used wheel straps last year without issue, revisiting the whole setup this year so welcome any feedback on these tie downs. Pictures of cars strapped down with the rennline mounts (front) would be really helpful.
#23
My car is missing the front lip. I haven't ponied up for shipping costs to get a new one. I cross the front straps to the front in-deck tie-down points on an Aluma tilt-bed trailer and it seems there is plenty of clearance. I don't load the car up often enough to remember how much, though.
#24
I would avoid crossing straps diagonally. Doing so causes two problems -- it loads the car laterally if one strap lets go, which would tend to skew the car on the trailer, and it reduces the effectiveness of the strap in the most important direction, which is axially, or fore-and-aft. If you have an "event," it's likely that it will apply forces in the fore-and-aft direction -- say, from hard braking or a collision to the front or rear. Under those circumstances, you want your maximum tie down strength to be aligned with those forces.
Last edited by Rob S; 03-04-2016 at 12:35 AM.
#25
Three Wheelin'
I use Mac's tie down ratchet straps through the wheels. They have a soft cloth on the straps. I have used them for years on my Featherlite trailer with no issues. Maybe next year I will replace the straps with the current version because they are finally showing wear signs.
#27
Rennlist Member
Never had an issue with alignment or keeping the car planted during transport.
if you don't go crazy on ratcheting the crap out of the straps, you'll be good.
#28
Three Wheelin'
wow. Thread started in 2005, resurrected in 2016, and now in 2017.
Go with Rennline. 45deg for 996
http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Tie...oductinfo/E04/
Go with Rennline. 45deg for 996
http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Tie...oductinfo/E04/
#30
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The Rennline tie down/jack plates are the way to go. After many bad experiences with tire straps and long trips we decided to put them on all of our cars. They also make it easier to jack the car so you're not guessing where to put the jack.
We keep them in stock: https://rennpart.com/product/rennlin...set-frontrear/
We keep them in stock: https://rennpart.com/product/rennlin...set-frontrear/
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