Changing sway bar settings at the track.
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I could use some help.
1.Is this easy to do?
2. Front and rear?
3. Can I do with with just one jack?
4. Can I jack the rear up under the engine case (to get both wheels up)?
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1.Is this easy to do?
2. Front and rear?
3. Can I do with with just one jack?
4. Can I jack the rear up under the engine case (to get both wheels up)?
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Why can't you have uneven load on the bars? I have done this to fine tune the balance on my race car to no ill effect. Actually a race engineer told me it was fine to do.
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4Kurves:
I've done that multiple times. I've been using one jack (craftman aluminum).
For the front, lift the car from either side front jack point. The C4 body is so stiff, that both front wheels will be in the air. Turn the wheels full right and remove right nut, turn the wheel full left and remove left nut. Keep the wheels straight and adjust sway bar hole on left, put nut on left, adjust right and put nut on right. Tight to 50 lbs/ft.
For the rear, there is a center jack point. Lift the car right there and adjust both sides.
Uneven load sway bar setup is used to fine tune. My sensitivity is not develop to that level yet.
I've done that multiple times. I've been using one jack (craftman aluminum).
For the front, lift the car from either side front jack point. The C4 body is so stiff, that both front wheels will be in the air. Turn the wheels full right and remove right nut, turn the wheel full left and remove left nut. Keep the wheels straight and adjust sway bar hole on left, put nut on left, adjust right and put nut on right. Tight to 50 lbs/ft.
For the rear, there is a center jack point. Lift the car right there and adjust both sides.
Uneven load sway bar setup is used to fine tune. My sensitivity is not develop to that level yet.
Last edited by NJ-GT; 02-02-2005 at 03:01 AM.
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You may have done that using adjustable end links to "fine tune corner balance", but the reason for a sway bar is to control sway and if you have load on one end then the purpose of the sway is canlled out by the "pre load", by adjusting it when uneven.
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Kevin, you can do the rear bar without jacking up the car. I've done mine several times at the track. All you need is a 16mm socket and a 17mm open end. I'll change yours thur if you want, it takes 20min. carl
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Originally Posted by cosmos
You may have done that using adjustable end links to "fine tune corner balance", but the reason for a sway bar is to control sway and if you have load on one end then the purpose of the sway is canlled out by the "pre load", by adjusting it when uneven.
You don't use the sway bars to corner balance and in fact when you are corner balancing the car you unhook the sway (anit-roll) bars.
My sway bar links are similar to what the GT3 has but obviously are for a 993. Identical to the 993RS/Cup cars.
The rest of what you say is not decipherable for me. A sway bar setting of 2 from stiffest on one end and 3 on the other is just an in-between setting. I don't normally do that but I have had times were I had to make a quick adjustment (when a practice and qualifying are minutes apart) and just did so on one end. My mechanic who has more years of race experience (Porsche specifically) than any of us do said this was fine and was no issue.
Last edited by Greg Fishman; 02-02-2005 at 11:44 AM.
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In my experience when hooking up the sway bars of a race car with adjustable rod ends, it's the last thing you do after corner weighting and alignment is complete and to do it perfect the car needs to be at race weight with driver and fuel and on a perefectly level surface other wise you run the risk of unwanted preload on one side or the other, that could negate the corner weighting a little bit. Now I am embarrased to admit I haven't even looked at the sway bars under my GT3 yet but assuming the links are of a fixed length and there are several different hole locations to choose from on the bar then there's no way to achieve this with the GT3 so it really shouldn't matter how you get it up in the air as long as you use the same holes side to side that's really the best that you can do.
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I bit OT, but Kevin, thought you'd enjoy this link if you haven't seen it yet........
http://content3.us.porsche.com/prod/...sionstestdrive
http://content3.us.porsche.com/prod/...sionstestdrive
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Originally Posted by macfly
I bit OT, but Kevin, thought you'd enjoy this link if you haven't seen it yet........
http://content3.us.porsche.com/prod/...sionstestdrive
http://content3.us.porsche.com/prod/...sionstestdrive
Pretty cool. It always amazes me to see the test drivers at Weissach in the winter with snow everywhere except on the track. Can you imagine putting a wheel off in the snow - yikes!
Anyway, thanks for that link.
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#13
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I agree with the aforementioned. Actually with trg front links if I crank the tire all the way one way I can get to the link and change the setting. You will want to keep that end quasi loose and then do the other and then tighten it up afterward to make getting in and out of the holes easier. The rear is even easier of course. The front is somewhat of a pain as it has an allen head and nut but with an allen socket, it's no problem.
Everyone is right when doing the corner balance you unhook the bars and the bars are used to tune the bias to your liking, and more bar really isn't better less is so long as you can get your balance right. I learned the hard way with them 1 off firm on the street making my filling not only want to fall out, but also in the canyons having the car literally Jump around from bumps. The effective stiffness on the front end was like having stiffer springs. (I should have increased my valving up on my pss9's to compensate).
Everyone is right when doing the corner balance you unhook the bars and the bars are used to tune the bias to your liking, and more bar really isn't better less is so long as you can get your balance right. I learned the hard way with them 1 off firm on the street making my filling not only want to fall out, but also in the canyons having the car literally Jump around from bumps. The effective stiffness on the front end was like having stiffer springs. (I should have increased my valving up on my pss9's to compensate).
#14
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I have done the search and cannot find the answer I need. Can I (and if so where exactly ) lift the rear of the car by sliding a race jack in from the rear? I need to get the rear of th car up so I can swing my arms from my 2 post lift.
Thanks
Thanks