RS Drop Links ?
#3
The standard ones are rubber bushed and the RS version have the rubber removed using spherical rod ends, I believe. So in a sense some of the play is taken out of the RS ones. This would add some suspension noise but they would be more precise. Don't know for sure, but thats what I'm looking to find out.
#4
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 100
From: California Boardwalk, Skanderborg Denmark
RS Front links= 996.343.070.93
Cup front links adjustable=996.343.070.92
Cup rear links:
Left side is NOT adjustable=996.333.069.90
Right side is adjustable=996.333.070.90
Cup front links adjustable=996.343.070.92
Cup rear links:
Left side is NOT adjustable=996.333.069.90
Right side is adjustable=996.333.070.90
#6
Just so I know...
These are drop links for the sway bars. I know that to properly corner balance the car you need adjustable end-links on the sways, other wise, it will balance out on the scales, but not on the track.
Am I wrong?
Am I wrong?
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#8
Cosmos is correct that you need to be able to adjust the sway bar so that there is no pre load on the bars. I dont think you would ever know the difference in street driving but it does make a difference on the track.
Code,
Yes changing anything on the car will upset it but we normally use 10 gal of gas as a measuring point and go from there. Nothing is ever perfect but you just try to make it handle the best you can
Code,
Yes changing anything on the car will upset it but we normally use 10 gal of gas as a measuring point and go from there. Nothing is ever perfect but you just try to make it handle the best you can
#10
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 100
From: California Boardwalk, Skanderborg Denmark
When you corner balance the car you balance the wheel loads diagonally across the car front to rear. The wheel loads have to be dependent solely on the spring lengths without the influence of the stabilizer bars, so they should be disconnected during the wheel weighting operation.
Once the car is weighted the stab bars can then be reattached without changing the wheel loads only if the links are adjustable for length. Technically only one link per stabilizer bar needs to be adjustable to achieve this, note the Cup only has one adjustable link in the rear.
The advantage of eliminating the rubber from the links is to take the slop out of the system making the chassis more responsive to stabilizer adjustment and effect- at a cost of increased road noise.
Adding fuel only increases the front wheel loads since the fuel tank distributes the load from side to side evenly by design.
Once the car is weighted the stab bars can then be reattached without changing the wheel loads only if the links are adjustable for length. Technically only one link per stabilizer bar needs to be adjustable to achieve this, note the Cup only has one adjustable link in the rear.
The advantage of eliminating the rubber from the links is to take the slop out of the system making the chassis more responsive to stabilizer adjustment and effect- at a cost of increased road noise.
Adding fuel only increases the front wheel loads since the fuel tank distributes the load from side to side evenly by design.
#12
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 100
From: California Boardwalk, Skanderborg Denmark
I have not inspected the links, but I think the normal GT3 links have no rubber in them and are a metal to metal spherical bearing.
If the normal GT3 links are metal to metal, the RS links are probably just shorter to compensate for the lower RS chassis (if the links are not shortened as the car is lowered the stab bar starts to work at a funny angle) This line of thinking would imply the RS links are no advantage in a normal GT3, so why bother.
The Cup links on the other hand are adjustable and this would be an advantage, however the question here is are the links long enough to fit in the normal GT3 at street ride height?
Has anyone installed them who can comment?
Otherwise someone will have to buy a front and rear cup link to check if they will work in a GT3 at street ride height.
If the normal GT3 links are metal to metal, the RS links are probably just shorter to compensate for the lower RS chassis (if the links are not shortened as the car is lowered the stab bar starts to work at a funny angle) This line of thinking would imply the RS links are no advantage in a normal GT3, so why bother.
The Cup links on the other hand are adjustable and this would be an advantage, however the question here is are the links long enough to fit in the normal GT3 at street ride height?
Has anyone installed them who can comment?
Otherwise someone will have to buy a front and rear cup link to check if they will work in a GT3 at street ride height.
#15
I have installed the adjustable cup links on my 2003 GT2 and they fit fine. As noted above, without these you cannot get a proper corner balancing of the car. They make a difference and are not very expensive. I would recommend them for anyone planning to spend any time at the track.
JCM
JCM