Robert Epstein

I have a 996.2 GT3 and the stock suspension is completely blown. When you jack the car up, you can push the wheel up into the fender and there is obviously fluid leaking. The car is completely stock with factory half cage. I want to set it up to run mostly 100-200tw tires and maybe slicks in the future if I buy a trailer. This is a track day car, not a competition car so I do not want to spend an extra thousand dollars for a tenth of a second, although I am willing to pay the premium for high quality and long lasting parts. The car will be driven on the street here and there, along with driving to the track, but I don't want to compromise much track performance, or possibly adjustable coil overs would be nice.

Should I replace the blown shocks with upgraded ones or go for a full on coilover? Which ones are the best to get?

I think coilovers will be best but tell me what you, as experts, think? I am thinking about KW or Ohlins but I do not know what type of spring rates or exactly what models of coilovers within each brand. What is the best high quality bang for buck and what is the next best things from that?

I want to just get coilovers or new shocks for now, and then I will consider doing all of the other stuff like adjustable drop links, bushings, ect once I feel I have fully driven the car to its max on the coilovers alone.

spiller

Based on my experiencing owning a modified 996 GT3 road car with early 996 cup Sachs race dampers (non adjustable) and every bush changed to monoball, then moving to a 996 cup with factory Sachs double adjustable race dampers with factory rubber bushe; the difference between monoball and rubber is less than the "tenths of a second" you talked about. I would not bother ever spending the money on monoballs unless you were wearing through factory bushes at an alarming rate. If you haven't done so, get some motorsport rear toe links and locking plates, these are essential for any track driving IMO.

Ohlins and KW are supposedly both excellent options but I haven't tried them. From what I have read, the Ohlins spring rates are far too soft for my liking. I really, really liked the early 996 cup Sachs dampers (1998-2001 cup cars) on my last road GT3. Combined with heavy spring rates, approx 1000 lb front and 1200 rear, the car was amazing on track with good R-compound tyres and would have been brilliant on slicks. On the road the ride was obviously very bumpy but the dampening was no less comfortable than the factory bilsteins on my current road GT3.

Robert Epstein

Thanks for all of the info. If I got Ohlins, I would revalve or go with heavier springs but I don't know exactly how much heavier or how to revalve them correctly. I would rather have the car a little softer and add stiffer sway bars instead of super stuff springs, concidering the spring weights you listed seem very high to me. Can you explain what the toe links do and what adjusting them does along with locking plates?

craina

The Ohlins R+T can handle 600f/800r springs without requiring a re-valve. I have these with out of the box rates, 400f/800r, and the fronts are too soft on the track. Ohlins also now has a set of "Dedicated track" coilovers available on their Ohlins USA website. As I understand those are still a rung below the TTX line.

I would also consider MCS, JRZ, and Moton.

cgfen

996 GT3s do have coilovers front and rear from the factory, that's what you have now and nearly all replacement options are coilover (spring coil placed over, outside) the damper.
Best depends on your budget and use case.

For your described use case consider double adjustable JRZs (~$4500.00) with spring rates as suggested by your local race prep shop.
Next step up would be in the $7500+ range, better JRZs, Ohlin, Motion Control, Moton.

Please find and reach out to a good local shop for advice, you'll need them anyway most likely for install, ride height, corner balance.

where are you located?

Craig

AudiOn19s

JRZ motorsport 11 series or 12 series and or MCS 2 way or 3 way are entry points for "best" given your car is primarily a track car. I have an older version of the 12 series on my car and it amazes me how good they are even on the street when that's not what they are designed for. The car doesn't get upset by anything...you can bounce it off of curbs at the track or drive over expansion joints in the middle of freeway off-ramps and it takes everything in stride and stays planted and composed.

KW's and Ohlins are going to be a "better" street suspension that can also double up as a track setup and hold their own but the others are in a completely different league.

Robert Epstein

​​Thanks. The JRZ seems like the right price and quality I am looking for. I will talk to the experts near me. Do you know about the recommended spring rates at all?

Scuderia V

KW Competition EXR

If something else would be better - Porsche would choose it

Robert Epstein

Well this car is 16 years old so they couldn't have chosen what is the best in 2020 and also the car is made for fun street use with high quality track driving too, not exactly the other way around. Do you want to give more info about this setup?

powdrhound

I've been extremely impressed with latest version of the JRZ 12 series 3 way Motorsport dampers. I run these with 1700 lb front and 2100 lb rear springs and they are fantastic. Amazing control and compliance rolled into one for serious track use.

Dan Jacobs

MCS or JRZ for me If you can afford it and use it on the street I'd get the 3 ways
Wyatt at MCS or Tim Olsen at Olsen Motorsportsfor the JRZ's are who you want to talk to
I'm sure those springs work great for Powderhound but I'd probably go 900F 950 R max for very smooth tracks

powdrhound

Here are JRZ 12.32 3 ways at what has become a pretty bumpy track. Suspension is very well dampened with 2000 lb rates. I've found JRZ remote canister shocks even with relatively soft 1000 lbs springs to ride softer than stock OEM coilovers. Most guys are generally blown away when they experience it. I've found 1000lb is a great street/track choice for an R comp tire with JRZ remotes. For slicks if you will track the car with intensity and trailer, I would not go less than 1300-1500. There is an ingrained fear most people have of stiffer springs but with a quality motorsport remote canister shock, there are quantifiable benefits. I've run just about every permutation of springs rates from 700-2100 and have always found stiffer to perform better IF you have the right damper... Again, I'm talking track, not street use..

spiller

I couldn’t agree more. These cars need heavy springs if on track performance is a priority. Low 1000s front and rear is not at all unbearable on public roads with good dampening.

mooty

12 series JRZ and 3 way MCS motorsport are very impressive. but OP make sure you have a "real suspension" guy installing and fiddle with them.
they are not set and forget type, if u want their true potential and benefit
when done right, they are out of this world
when done wrong, they are OUT OF THIS WORLD

powdrhound

THIS ^^ wise advice. Suspension tuning is a bit of black art. I’ve been very fortunate to work one of the best in the business who has spent many hours getting my set up right.