RMS, Tranny Mounts & 4.0 Clutch Kit.
I sent off my tranny to Copans for a much needed rebuild (I got 50k miles out of his previous cup trans build) and while I'm in there, I will be replacing the RMS, tranny mounts and clutch/flywheel.
I don't drive it on the road very often so I don't mind a more solid or semi solid mount, I replaced the motor mounts recently. What updated tranny mounts are folks running these days? I have read about different RMS's (The squeaky 997 turbo units or updated 997 GT3 RMS) What's my best bet to make sure it stays dry and doesn't squeak? Finally, I am leaning towards the 4.0 Clutch and lightweight flywheel kit. Do I need anything else to make it work on the 996? Any other clutch/lwfw options I should be looking at? The car has a lwfw and ugraded clutch but at 50k miles on those items, I think I should replace to be on the safe side. Anything else to do while I'm in there? Any help/opinions would be greatly appreciated. |
The 4.0 clutch/LWFW requires the lighter RS crank pulley to go with it on the other end of the crankshaft.
I would do everything in there while it's apart. Sorry no knowledge to share on the RMS, interested in responses. |
My car had a cracked tranny mount when I got it 2 yrs ago. The shop that did the engine-out work, Dougherty Automotive, replaced them with Cantrell 60A durometer mounts https://cantrellmotorsport.com/transmission-mounts/
That's not a recommendation on my part, just what Dougherty used. I remember Bill Dougherty saying that if the car was going to see street time, the 60A were a better choice. In hindsight I should have probably used the 85A versions since my car will probably also see less street time. |
Originally Posted by Rootwitch
(Post 16444992)
My car had a cracked tranny mount when I got it 2 yrs ago. The shop that did the engine-out work, Dougherty Automotive, replaced them with Cantrell 60A durometer mounts https://cantrellmotorsport.com/transmission-mounts/
That's not a recommendation on my part, just what Dougherty used. I remember Bill Dougherty saying that if the car was going to see street time, the 60A were a better choice. In hindsight I should have probably used the 85A versions since my car will probably also see less street time. |
Originally Posted by Nickshu
(Post 16444927)
The 4.0 clutch/LWFW requires the lighter RS crank pulley to go with it on the other end of the crankshaft.
I would do everything in there while it's apart. Sorry no knowledge to share on the RMS, interested in responses. |
Originally Posted by Rootwitch
(Post 16444992)
My car had a cracked tranny mount when I got it 2 yrs ago. The shop that did the engine-out work, Dougherty Automotive, replaced them with Cantrell 60A durometer mounts https://cantrellmotorsport.com/transmission-mounts/
That's not a recommendation on my part, just what Dougherty used. I remember Bill Dougherty saying that if the car was going to see street time, the 60A were a better choice. In hindsight I should have probably used the 85A versions since my car will probably also see less street time. |
Originally Posted by LuisGT3
(Post 16445743)
Thanks for the heads up. I have the Evoms crank pulley on the car already. Would I need to replace it with the RS?
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Originally Posted by LuisGT3
(Post 16445743)
Thanks for the heads up. I have the Evoms crank pulley on the car already. Would I need to replace it with the RS?
I went with the 75A mount inserts from Torque Solutions and have no complains. It's a little loud, a little rattly but for how often you or I drive the car its tolerable. |
I’m also interested in the latest and greatest rms suggestion for our cars. Is the crank seal a straightforward r&r when the pulley is off, or are special tools and an expert’s touch required like with the rms?
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Originally Posted by ScottArizona
(Post 16446533)
I’m also interested in the latest and greatest rms suggestion for our cars. Is the crank seal a straightforward r&r when the pulley is off, or are special tools and an expert’s touch required like with the rms?
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I had the function first mount in my road car, nothing to fault with it.
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I use solid engine mounts and a 996Cup clutch. For track work, this clutch is far superior to the 4.0 clutch I ran prior to it. If it's a street car, I'd stick with the 4.0 clutch as the Cup clutch chatters a bit on engagement and has a narrower engagement point.
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