black04

GOOD INFO!!!!!
But $2700 just for parts? Looking at the list, I understand now

1. apparently it not only includes the coolant hoses
2. but any and every little part that can age or get damaged when removed or reinstalled.
3. Water pump and associated part
4. Exhaust related parts
5. Other cooling system (and heater) parts

That's awesome.
in order to make your list a complete "while I'm in there...list" one would add the Rear Main Seal and clutch parts
OR Conversely just order the parts for the cooling hose pinning
Great. Thanks again!

black04

One more question about your excellent parts list

Cell A2 of the spreadsheet says "Position" But I believe there should be a reference to a part fiche page description, like "Cooling System Page" or some such. Do you know what I mean?
Thanks for any assistance

Marv

Thank you!!!

The good news is that I was happy to see the second Excel 'Sheet' was empty!

Rootwitch

When my coolant lines were done recently the shop also replaced the coolant reservoir, something they said could fail with age.
Then I saw one fail on a track event recently.

996TWINS

Here is what I did (some mods/fixes done before the coolant pipes were welded):

Expansion tank
Water pump
Check valves (I thought there was only one, but there are two)
Oil pressure sending unit
Metal turbo oil feed lines checked
Waste gate vacuum lines
5 bar fuel pressure regulator
Clutch kit
Slave cylinder (found it was leaking a bit with the engine removal. Bad news/good news)
Pressure accumulator
Spark plugs
Water hoses
Fuel filter
Air filter
Crankshaft seal
Boost pressure test
Wastegate adjust
Throttle body seal
Transponder
Coil packs
Solenoid brackets
Engine mounts (RSS)
Trans mount (997 version)
Multi-rib belt
2nd gear detent

Martin S.

I haven't read all the other responses...but at first blush.....

Well while you're in there, lets do:
1. 993 RS Clutch and flywheel package, consider the Aasco flywheel,. Rumor has it that the Aasco flywheel is designed in a way to reduce the gear rattling in neutral,
Budget about $2,500 for parts,
2. Rear main seal (You'll need to split the tranny and engine from their symbiotic union,
3. Up date crankshaft pulley , BBI sells these, best to do it no when you have access to the engine. If you do it after the engine has been reinstalled, you'll have to remove the rear
4. Detail the engine and tranny, remove all cosmoline, road grime and coolant residue.

That should do it😁
super cover
4. Beef up the LSD to Guard Clutches.

enthusiast

After all these years I still find it hard to believe Porsche AG used adhesives on the coolant plumbing in a Cup engine. I think we all agree it was done to save money on manufacturing. I also assume they fixed only a few of these failures under the original warranty.
.

Martin S.

Viper Bob, is a great FL resource.

RennOracle

In Europe there are SO MANY owners that stuck their heads in sand and if dare to mention it they will just out you as a scarecrow that is exagerating a small rare problem and these are people that track them...

Rob S

It's true that all 996 and 997 Cup engines, just as with the street engines, had coolant pipes glued in. The R/RS/RSR race engines had threaded-in coolant pipes that weren't subject to this problem. It's interesting that when PMNA rebuilds Cup engines, they don't weld or pin; they remove the factory-original pipes, clean them up, and re-glue them using 3M Scotch Weld 1838 Green two-part epoxy. According to PMNA, they're confident in this repair and reportedly have never had one fail afterward. I'm not sure if this re-glue repair is done just once, or if it's redone for subsequent rebuilds, but it's my impression that it's a one-and-done fix. If it could be proven that this re-gluing is completely secure on all engines, it might avoid some of the attendant drawbacks of pinning or welding. Granted, race engines operate under somewhat different conditions than your average street car, but a track-oriented car is likely to be fairly similar in use. One important difference is that a Cup engine is a 50 to 100 hour engine, so it's not likely to log as many hours before a refresh. But then again the consequences of a failure are likely to be severe. Given this approach by PMNA and their reported success, it may be a path worth considering for repairs on a street or track car engine.

black04

Just because Cup Cars are re-glued doesn't mean that would be suitable for street cars. We have no way of knowing if the adhesive is the problem or the parts were not engineered or manufactured properly. Thus we re-glue and pin or knurl the pipe or weld the pipe.

NaroEscape

rbahr

I will go out on a limb here and claim that it is the application / use of the original adhesive as the root cause. I would like to think that in the last 20 years a lot of improvements have been made with current day adhesives. That said, I have pinned mine

NaroEscape

what I don't understand is...why not re-glue it then JB Weld the seams together (or some industrial JB Weld type sealant)? Wouldn't that work? I've seen JB Weld hold up to way more than this.

Issue I had here in Charlotte: we don't have any Porsche mechanics around that have done this anymore. The only guy that has pinned them and knows what to do is Cody Forbes at Black Forest Racing - who closed shop a month ago. He's doing this for me on the side as a friend. The dealer will just put the same adhesive on that came off - Porsche still will not admit there's a real problem.

RossP

I think part of the issue could be the age of the adhesive vs the hours on the motor. 50-100 hours on a cup motor is 1 season (6-10 months), where as the 996 GT3 platform is ~14 years old. That being said, if you are going to go to the trouble of re-gluing, why not just pin, just to be safe?