That would explain my lower lap times....

 

Like I said, a bit heavier. Brakes are the same weight true. But still more unsprung weight than a 996. After taking 8 lbs a corner off my GT3 in the last year, I can tell you every pound makes a significant difference.

 

Hey Matt - I'm mostly using the car on track (90 track / 10 street), running NT01's now, but will likely be switching up to Hoosiers (a track buddy is making the switch to paddle shifting RS car - and I don't want to be lapped Do you still recommend the 400 for the fronts or jump up to 600 for stickier tires?

Thanks!

 

Found this old thread. Post 15 may be of some use to get a good pice.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...s-r-and-t.html

 

Thanks for the link to the old thread - muy helpful!

 

What's the cost to have them revalved and sprung differently over the OEM rates? There's guys running hoosiers on 996 GT3 stock front springs with a 250lb rate with success. It's not ideal but it'll still work.

I'd look at the cost benefit analysis of changing things up front and see if it's really worth it vs. just trying out what's on there to see if you feel there's still room for improvement. I run spring rates that are pretty soft in my car and not close to ideal either for the tires I'm running but it still works just fine.

What you're going to find with the flappy paddle cars is most of them shy away from sticky rubber for fear of warranty implications hence they're really not that quick. Get to the gas before them on exit and you'll find they really can't put any distance on you. When they are on sticky rubber the mechanical grip they can produce is what really creates the gap from our old cars.

 

Personally, I would see how they run out of the box. But it also depends on where you are with your development as a driver. And this piece is important. BE HONEST. You will end up a better, faster driver if you do. That means means you need to consider your driving experience and what type of tracks/grip surfaces/setups you have experience with. The reality is, not everyone can drive a stiff car on slicks. Some (most) drivers will actually be faster on Hoosier's with softer suspension because of their ability to react to the car quick enough.

Ohlins is a very smart company when it comes to setup tech. My experience is that Ohlin's valving/spring rate setups are very close to optimum for the intent of that shock type. That is to say, for the 996 GT3, For that type of use of car, for that price point, that coilover is in its optimum bandwidth. Will it work with a re-valve and re-spring, YES, absolutely. But maybe a 2 way TTX is a better investment at that point. Yes its more, but, where are you going with all this (Honest question)?

My journey was to see how far I could push the car. Stock coilovers and RSS Lower control arms on R888 got me deep into 2:05 territory at Watkins Glen (2:05.32 to be exact). Hoosiers got me 2:02.10. 3 way TTX and full monoball top and bottom, 1:58.65. Each step has a complete different cost model but I made it about my driving (some coaching and a lot of days), setup and maintenance, but most important, Tire. When I could catch and pass those on the 'faster setup' I made the jump to the next tire. I have not yet had a reason to try a slick, but I am close.

 

Andy, you are as wise as you are fast - great advice! Thanks ... and seems like going out of the box is the best option at this point.

 

Again ... thank you for the reply, and wonderful advice. Honestly, not sure where any of this goes ... just trying to get more out of myself (with a little bit of car help) - I'm nearing 40k miles on original suspension, so it seems like it is time. I'm still learning the GT3 (4th year in the car), I had an aggressively set up 993 (PSS 10's and all the other bits) for the better part of ten years - loved that stiff set-up, but obviously, these are two different cars. Doubt I'll get to slicks, but Hoosiers are likely on the horizon - at least I'd like to experience the car with that type of grip.

Thanks again for all your help ... out of the box Ohlins seems to be the best bet.

Many cheers!

 

+1, some great posts above... these things work very well out of the box... TTX is the true race stuff from Ohlins if getting really serious about track/racing

 

Agreed - great sensible posts above!

Cheers

Matt

 

I am one of the guys that Matt has switched over to the Ohlin R&T's. Car was previously riding on 2x Moton's with very stiff springs. Something like 1150 lbs/in in the rear. Matt and crew set the R&T's up basically as suggested by the factory. I am never going to match Matt's 1:58, but 2:06's at the Glen are getting done from time to time. Frankly, I could hardly be happier given that I can keep up with 90% of the instructor group and am still able to take the car on the street occasionally. Hard to beat for the money.