Soft Brake Pedal After brakes get hot
08-26-2017, 10:48 PM
#16
Race Car
1) get the big GT2 / cup brake ducts
2) make sure your upper ducts are in place behind the radiators, theybwill attach to the coolant lines running to the front radiators.
3) stop using motul and go to Endless 650 fluid.
4) quit using the brakes so much.
2) make sure your upper ducts are in place behind the radiators, theybwill attach to the coolant lines running to the front radiators.
3) stop using motul and go to Endless 650 fluid.
4) quit using the brakes so much.
08-27-2017, 09:58 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Based on the symptoms it is pretty likely that your issue is fluid exceeding max head tolerance. Do you have cup ducts or regular street ones?
Also this is a stupid/obvious comment but if your rotors are installed on the wrong side the cooling vanes will do nothing. Speaking from experience as I did this and boiled my fluid
Also this is a stupid/obvious comment but if your rotors are installed on the wrong side the cooling vanes will do nothing. Speaking from experience as I did this and boiled my fluid
Do you have the part numbers for the upper ducts. I'll need to check for those and I guess I'll get the cup/gt2 ducts.
08-30-2017, 11:03 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...eflectors.html
Will get these if i don't already have them.
So for now, we're changing out pads and while at it taking a more thorough look at the calipers for any seal issues.
08-30-2017, 11:23 AM
#20
Race Car
You're talking about the upper ducts right. Like this post discusses:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...eflectors.html
Will get these if i don't already have them.
So for now, we're changing out pads and while at it taking a more thorough look at the calipers for any seal issues.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...eflectors.html
Will get these if i don't already have them.
So for now, we're changing out pads and while at it taking a more thorough look at the calipers for any seal issues.
08-30-2017, 10:50 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
It may not be obvious, brake fluid should be new and sealed when you flush the whole system. Returned a crf last year when the seal was broken on the shelf at northstar. Sitting on the shelf fluid will absorb moisture if the seal has been broken.
SRF rocks!
SRF rocks!
09-05-2017, 04:32 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update
Since I don't have time to perform the scientific method to find the culprit before my next track days, I've replaced the ABS module, re-checked calipers for any kind of leaks (there are none), got new Ferodo DS1.11 pads and flushed the system with new fluid.
So far, on street testing, it seems to have solved the issue. We were able to reproduce the issue on street testing before we replaced everything.
I'll also be adding the upper ducts to add additional cooling. Will update further after track sessions, but if its solved, we likely won't know the root cause.
So far, on street testing, it seems to have solved the issue. We were able to reproduce the issue on street testing before we replaced everything.
I'll also be adding the upper ducts to add additional cooling. Will update further after track sessions, but if its solved, we likely won't know the root cause.
09-08-2017, 04:06 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
I would think a soft pedal would be fluid or mechanical related, e.g. reservoir, a line, etc. You can have say 20% left on the pad and braking could still be 100%. However, if the fluid gets too hot or absorbs water you can have the best new brake pads/rotors and will get a soft pedal. I have been successfully been using the Pagid RS29 for several years with no issues, but each person's braking style is different.
