Fixing Oil starvation problem 3.4 engine
#16
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the help. I was using fresh Motul 8100 X-Cess oil. I dont get Joe Gibbs oil here but I can buy Motul 300V. So will a deep sump help? I was considering buying the LN Engineering kit. From what I can tell from reading the above it would benefit from using a deeper sump as well as Motul 300V.
#17
Thanks for the help. I was using fresh Motul 8100 X-Cess oil. I dont get Joe Gibbs oil here but I can buy Motul 300V. So will a deep sump help? I was considering buying the LN Engineering kit. From what I can tell from reading the above it would benefit from using a deeper sump as well as Motul 300V.
Your first priority should be follow Jake's advice and use a proper oil that can deal with the very high heat load we generate on track. Second priority should be to add volume and a more robust baffle (remember to extend the pickup tube if you add an extended oil pan). These are the two most common items (because they are easy and inexpensive) you will find in 996's with lots of relatively reliable track miles on them.
Lastly, a wet sump system designed for the street will likely never reach the oiling reliability of a true dry sump system designed for motor sports use.
#18
Drifting
One of the incidental benefits of having a deeper sump is that you can safely run the oil level a little lower than the maximum mark on the dip stick.You'll still have more oil to feed the pump than stock. It helps reduce the chance of oil overwhelming the AOS. Swamping the AOS with oil can be a serious problem. Others have covered this issue in previous Threads.
#19
Former Vendor
A larger volume always has a greater heat capacity.
Usually the deep sump helps in 20-30 minute sessions, as the added volume of oil won't become heat soaked in this period of time.
BUT we learned in endurance racing in 3-8 hour sessions that the added volume of oil needed more and more oil cooling.
As far as dry sump goes, I have my own system that I utilize on Stage 4 and greater engines. Nothing for it is a shelf item, except the fittings and hoses. Its mostly overkill, and not necessary. Run a proper oil, keep it within it's formulated operating temperature, and you'll be fine.
#20
Thanks - that means use-wise your application lines up 1 for 1 with Cervelli. Good to know, I'm not planning any endurance racing but I'd like to get some more DEs in during the next few years.
#21
thanks jake. motul fluids rock. question - the lightweight flywheel issues that i've read about - perhaps problems are related to them being less of a heatsink (letting more heat into engine internals) and less about the addnl vibration they cause?
#22
Former Vendor
The aluminum construction of the LWFW is just another problem with it.. The aluminum soaks up even more clutch heat than the dual mass.
The only Motul that I respect today is 300V. Its a great oil.
The only Motul that I respect today is 300V. Its a great oil.
#23
Rennlist Member
Until that greater volume of oil gets heat soaked.... Then, the oil becomes much harder to cool, and the engine.
Usually the deep sump helps in 20-30 minute sessions, as the added volume of oil won't become heat soaked in this period of time.
BUT we learned in endurance racing in 3-8 hour sessions that the added volume of oil needed more and more oil cooling.
Usually the deep sump helps in 20-30 minute sessions, as the added volume of oil won't become heat soaked in this period of time.
BUT we learned in endurance racing in 3-8 hour sessions that the added volume of oil needed more and more oil cooling.
Im leaning towards DT40 for my next oil change and maybe an x51 baffle and deeper sump soon to increase oil capacity and delay overheating which might be enough for HPDEs. It's still not a solution.
#24
Former Vendor
That's pretty much why I stated it could alleviate symptoms without being an actual solution. I'm starting to think the actual solution is either a dry dump system or at least some changes to the factory Porsche oiling system like changing the way (routing) or increasing the scavenger pump capacity to get the oil back to the pan. I'm sure you know more about this though. The difficulties associated with boxer engines are all new to me. Looking forward to taking your classes next year actually. I love learning new things.
Im leaning towards DT40 for my next oil change and maybe an x51 baffle and deeper sump soon to increase oil capacity and delay overheating which might be enough for HPDEs. It's still not a solution.
Im leaning towards DT40 for my next oil change and maybe an x51 baffle and deeper sump soon to increase oil capacity and delay overheating which might be enough for HPDEs. It's still not a solution.
Yes, HPDE requires a race oil...If you are wearing a helmet for the activities, then race oil is required.. That's my rule here...
XP series oils will take the heat.... XP 5,7 & 9 are the go to oils for these engines on the track.
#25
Rennlist Member
Just remember that DT40 is not a race oil... It was never developed specifically for the track. It was not the goal for this formula. It's a long lasting street oil.
Yes, HPDE requires a race oil...If you are wearing a helmet for the activities, then race oil is required.. That's my rule here...
XP series oils will take the heat.... XP 5,7 & 9 are the go to oils for these engines on the track.
Yes, HPDE requires a race oil...If you are wearing a helmet for the activities, then race oil is required.. That's my rule here...
XP series oils will take the heat.... XP 5,7 & 9 are the go to oils for these engines on the track.
#26
Rennlist Member
Will be switching it out soon.