Questions From Perspective New 996 Owner
#1
Questions From Perspective New 996 Owner
I am BMW (87 M6, 89 325iX, 90 325iC) CCA member looking to cross bloodlines into the Porsche family and am looking for advice from those with A LOT more knowledge than me so here are my questions in no random order. My budget is in the $20,000 dollar range. I'd pay a bit north of that if the car has already has the IMS, RMS and clutch replaced or less if I have to budget doing this myself.
1. Why am I finding so many more 1999 model year 996s for sale?
2. Is the 1999 car "better" because of the dual row IMS? Or just buy the newest car and budget for an IMS? Even though I understand the IMS failure may be somewhat over exaggerated I would still like the piece of mind having it replaced.
3. How many miles on a car before a clutch job? If not tracked and just driven normally.
4. Why are there so few White or Red cars? It seems the popular colors were Silver, Grey and Black with White, Yellow and Red being less popular.
5. I am undecided on C2 or C4. I like my BMW 325iX and it's all wheel drive but, I am not sure I won't or need the added complexity, weight, or narrowed buying selection of searching for a C4 996.
6. And probably the most controversial question... Opinions on cars with a "rebuilt" title? My logic being this, a Porsche that has a rebuilt title that was fixed CORRECTLY by a competent shop could save me some money. Yes, I would have the car checked out by an independent shop. Yes, I would want to know or see photos of the extent of the damage that resulted in a salvage title in the first place. Given that the 996 is probably the lowest values 911 in the eyes of the insurance companies would it not take much damage to "total" a car? I am not buying the car as an investment I am buying it to drive.
My preferences in the car I buy.
1. Coupe only.
2. Manual.
3. Under 100,000 miles. The lower the better with an emphasis on condition and maintenance records.
4. Any interior color other than grey.
5. Aero kit if the rest of the car checks out.
6. As stock and original as possible.
Any advice welcome.
1. Why am I finding so many more 1999 model year 996s for sale?
2. Is the 1999 car "better" because of the dual row IMS? Or just buy the newest car and budget for an IMS? Even though I understand the IMS failure may be somewhat over exaggerated I would still like the piece of mind having it replaced.
3. How many miles on a car before a clutch job? If not tracked and just driven normally.
4. Why are there so few White or Red cars? It seems the popular colors were Silver, Grey and Black with White, Yellow and Red being less popular.
5. I am undecided on C2 or C4. I like my BMW 325iX and it's all wheel drive but, I am not sure I won't or need the added complexity, weight, or narrowed buying selection of searching for a C4 996.
6. And probably the most controversial question... Opinions on cars with a "rebuilt" title? My logic being this, a Porsche that has a rebuilt title that was fixed CORRECTLY by a competent shop could save me some money. Yes, I would have the car checked out by an independent shop. Yes, I would want to know or see photos of the extent of the damage that resulted in a salvage title in the first place. Given that the 996 is probably the lowest values 911 in the eyes of the insurance companies would it not take much damage to "total" a car? I am not buying the car as an investment I am buying it to drive.
My preferences in the car I buy.
1. Coupe only.
2. Manual.
3. Under 100,000 miles. The lower the better with an emphasis on condition and maintenance records.
4. Any interior color other than grey.
5. Aero kit if the rest of the car checks out.
6. As stock and original as possible.
Any advice welcome.
#3
Rennlist Member
There were quite a few small improvements made on the 996.2 (2002-2004) if you can find one in your price range, including a slightly larger engine/more HP.
C2 (RWD only) all the way, particularly due to the above comment. Same HP but pushing much more driveline resistance. A few threads around on guys converting their C4's to RWD only.
C2 (RWD only) all the way, particularly due to the above comment. Same HP but pushing much more driveline resistance. A few threads around on guys converting their C4's to RWD only.
#4
I just got a 99 cab a couple months ago and have been a p-car owner for several years and was an e46 owner. Good car to cross over to as I also have a Mercedes so the garage is all German.
in regards to year, here are some things I wish the 99 had that the gen 2 has:
1. A global box
2. A three spoke steering (can swap anyways with newer but added expense)
3. A removable exhaust tip without taking the section off
minor annoyances but gen 1 is still a great car. I can't complain as I was not searching and the opportunity get this one with 127k miles for under 9 grand was a steal even with a minor fender bender.
i did the ims/rms/aos and clutch in the first month for piece of mind insurance. Was running the original bearing and was still in great shape. If you gonna replace it anyways it doesn't matter what is in there now.
in regards to year, here are some things I wish the 99 had that the gen 2 has:
1. A global box
2. A three spoke steering (can swap anyways with newer but added expense)
3. A removable exhaust tip without taking the section off
minor annoyances but gen 1 is still a great car. I can't complain as I was not searching and the opportunity get this one with 127k miles for under 9 grand was a steal even with a minor fender bender.
i did the ims/rms/aos and clutch in the first month for piece of mind insurance. Was running the original bearing and was still in great shape. If you gonna replace it anyways it doesn't matter what is in there now.
#5
Salvage title destroys resale value. If you are buying to drive and keep a long time - then go for it, but pay for an expensive PPI. And make sure you see and drive it in person. If you plan on ever trying to resell I would avoid it.
#6
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
1. Why am I finding so many more 1999 model year 996s for sale?
I think that's just an anomaly. Plenty of 2000-2005 out there.
2. Is the 1999 car "better" because of the dual row IMS? Or just buy the newest car and budget for an IMS? Even though I understand the IMS failure may be somewhat over exaggerated I would still like the piece of mind having it replaced.
According to many well-trained mechanics, and purists, the Mk1 cars of 98-00 are the best of the lot. Built before the fire in Stuttgart factory, and have better engines overall, plus the dual row IMS, cable throttle, mechanical frunk and engine lids, etc.
3. How many miles on a car before a clutch job? If not tracked and just driven normally.
Highly, extremely owner dependent. I can make a clutch last > 100k miles. Other drivers need a clutch in 20-30k miles. As a complete generalization, I would say about 70-100k, with a lot of variation tossed in.
4. Why are there so few White or Red cars? It seems the popular colors were Silver, Grey and Black with White, Yellow and Red being less popular.
I don't understand this one either. Silver, gray, black cars bore the **** out of me. Why anyone would own a silver 911 is beyond weird. But, may have something to do with the desire to be like Bentley, BMW, etc, and less like Lamborghini or Ferrari. Makes me sad.
5. I am undecided on C2 or C4. I like my BMW 325iX and it's all wheel drive but, I am not sure I won't or need the added complexity, weight, or narrowed buying selection of searching for a C4 996.
You already said it. I don't need or want the added complexity and weight of the extra drive. Plenty of folks have turned their C4 into a C2 by stripping out some or all of the FWD component. Body shape is wider, if you like that kind of thing. Not for me.
6. And probably the most controversial question... Opinions on cars with a "rebuilt" title? My logic being this, a Porsche that has a rebuilt title that was fixed CORRECTLY by a competent shop could save me some money. Yes, I would have the car checked out by an independent shop. Yes, I would want to know or see photos of the extent of the damage that resulted in a salvage title in the first place. Given that the 996 is probably the lowest values 911 in the eyes of the insurance companies would it not take much damage to "total" a car? I am not buying the car as an investment I am buying it to drive.
If it was a used 2004 Ford Focus, and I could be sure it was repaired correctly, I would consider a rebuilt title. For a 996, it just isn't worth the even lower price, poor resale, and it would always bug me that my pride and joy Porsche is a salvage. Ugh
My preferences in the car I buy.
1. Coupe only.
check
2. Manual.
check
3. Under 100,000 miles. The lower the better with an emphasis on condition and maintenance records.
check
4. Any interior color other than grey.
check
5. Aero kit if the rest of the car checks out.
check
6. As stock and original as possible.
partial check(IMSB, third rad, low temp t-stat mods)
Any advice welcome.
I think that's just an anomaly. Plenty of 2000-2005 out there.
2. Is the 1999 car "better" because of the dual row IMS? Or just buy the newest car and budget for an IMS? Even though I understand the IMS failure may be somewhat over exaggerated I would still like the piece of mind having it replaced.
According to many well-trained mechanics, and purists, the Mk1 cars of 98-00 are the best of the lot. Built before the fire in Stuttgart factory, and have better engines overall, plus the dual row IMS, cable throttle, mechanical frunk and engine lids, etc.
3. How many miles on a car before a clutch job? If not tracked and just driven normally.
Highly, extremely owner dependent. I can make a clutch last > 100k miles. Other drivers need a clutch in 20-30k miles. As a complete generalization, I would say about 70-100k, with a lot of variation tossed in.
4. Why are there so few White or Red cars? It seems the popular colors were Silver, Grey and Black with White, Yellow and Red being less popular.
I don't understand this one either. Silver, gray, black cars bore the **** out of me. Why anyone would own a silver 911 is beyond weird. But, may have something to do with the desire to be like Bentley, BMW, etc, and less like Lamborghini or Ferrari. Makes me sad.
5. I am undecided on C2 or C4. I like my BMW 325iX and it's all wheel drive but, I am not sure I won't or need the added complexity, weight, or narrowed buying selection of searching for a C4 996.
You already said it. I don't need or want the added complexity and weight of the extra drive. Plenty of folks have turned their C4 into a C2 by stripping out some or all of the FWD component. Body shape is wider, if you like that kind of thing. Not for me.
6. And probably the most controversial question... Opinions on cars with a "rebuilt" title? My logic being this, a Porsche that has a rebuilt title that was fixed CORRECTLY by a competent shop could save me some money. Yes, I would have the car checked out by an independent shop. Yes, I would want to know or see photos of the extent of the damage that resulted in a salvage title in the first place. Given that the 996 is probably the lowest values 911 in the eyes of the insurance companies would it not take much damage to "total" a car? I am not buying the car as an investment I am buying it to drive.
If it was a used 2004 Ford Focus, and I could be sure it was repaired correctly, I would consider a rebuilt title. For a 996, it just isn't worth the even lower price, poor resale, and it would always bug me that my pride and joy Porsche is a salvage. Ugh
My preferences in the car I buy.
1. Coupe only.
check
2. Manual.
check
3. Under 100,000 miles. The lower the better with an emphasis on condition and maintenance records.
check
4. Any interior color other than grey.
check
5. Aero kit if the rest of the car checks out.
check
6. As stock and original as possible.
partial check(IMSB, third rad, low temp t-stat mods)
Any advice welcome.
#7
Burning Brakes
As usual, I think Doc has it covered. The only thing I'd add is that I bought my 996 from a guy who used to be sales manager at a local BMW dealer. His opinion was that you see so many Porsches (and BMWs) in shades of gray and silver because they're the safest cars for dealers to have on the lot. As a sales manager, the last thing he wanted was to floor-plan a car that wouldn't sell right away because of the color.
He said that he would stock 3- and 5-series cars primarily in silver, gray, and black; for most other colors, they would order the car once the customer put down a deposit. This was not a very high volume dealer, but I'm sure his experience wasn't unique. We had talked about this because my car is such an odd color; he was certain that it would've been ordered because a car that color could sit on a lot for months.
He said that he would stock 3- and 5-series cars primarily in silver, gray, and black; for most other colors, they would order the car once the customer put down a deposit. This was not a very high volume dealer, but I'm sure his experience wasn't unique. We had talked about this because my car is such an odd color; he was certain that it would've been ordered because a car that color could sit on a lot for months.
Trending Topics
#8
Thank you for all the advice.
So a C2 it is with all things considered. The 996 won't be driven in the winter so the added complexity, weight and parasitic draw isn't needed.
My color of choice would be red and then white. The "bland" colors make sense from a business sense but in my opinion nothing is nicer looking that a red 996 with tan interior or a white with black. The blues are nice but they all seem to come with grey interiors that I just can't stomach. Too vanilla for my tastes.
I like the idea of actual throttle cables and mechanical front and rear hatch releases, possibly a more robust motor (why is this) and such of the first gen models but there is something to be said for buying a 5 or 6 year newer car if all else is equal.
Is the increased HP of the 3.6 over the 3.4 really noticeable?
So a C2 it is with all things considered. The 996 won't be driven in the winter so the added complexity, weight and parasitic draw isn't needed.
My color of choice would be red and then white. The "bland" colors make sense from a business sense but in my opinion nothing is nicer looking that a red 996 with tan interior or a white with black. The blues are nice but they all seem to come with grey interiors that I just can't stomach. Too vanilla for my tastes.
I like the idea of actual throttle cables and mechanical front and rear hatch releases, possibly a more robust motor (why is this) and such of the first gen models but there is something to be said for buying a 5 or 6 year newer car if all else is equal.
Is the increased HP of the 3.6 over the 3.4 really noticeable?
#9
Another preference of mine. Though I like the Euro package, what was Porsche thinking with that rear spoiler? It may be functional but, I'd much prefer a simple ducktail design. It just seems too "ricer" to me. But I know everyone has different tastes. No offense to those who do like the design.
#10
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Eindhoven, the Netherlands
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Don't worry about the rear spoiler. You are driving the other way so you don't see it. AND it is kind of nice to give the "finger" when you accelerate away from some loser behind you when you just turned up the highway.
Don't forget yellow, it is a pretty rare colour and very nice with an aero kit. My car also has the Euro ROW M030 kit (factory lowered). Looks SO much nicer.
Volkert
Don't forget yellow, it is a pretty rare colour and very nice with an aero kit. My car also has the Euro ROW M030 kit (factory lowered). Looks SO much nicer.
Volkert
Last edited by Volkert; 06-24-2017 at 02:56 PM.
#11
As usual, I think Doc has it covered. The only thing I'd add is that I bought my 996 from a guy who used to be sales manager at a local BMW dealer. His opinion was that you see so many Porsches (and BMWs) in shades of gray and silver because they're the safest cars for dealers to have on the lot. As a sales manager, the last thing he wanted was to floor-plan a car that wouldn't sell right away because of the color.
He said that he would stock 3- and 5-series cars primarily in silver, gray, and black; for most other colors, they would order the car once the customer put down a deposit. This was not a very high volume dealer, but I'm sure his experience wasn't unique. We had talked about this because my car is such an odd color; he was certain that it would've been ordered because a car that color could sit on a lot for months.
He said that he would stock 3- and 5-series cars primarily in silver, gray, and black; for most other colors, they would order the car once the customer put down a deposit. This was not a very high volume dealer, but I'm sure his experience wasn't unique. We had talked about this because my car is such an odd color; he was certain that it would've been ordered because a car that color could sit on a lot for months.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thank you for all the advice.
So a C2 it is with all things considered. The 996 won't be driven in the winter so the added complexity, weight and parasitic draw isn't needed.
My color of choice would be red and then white. The "bland" colors make sense from a business sense but in my opinion nothing is nicer looking that a red 996 with tan interior or a white with black. The blues are nice but they all seem to come with grey interiors that I just can't stomach. Too vanilla for my tastes.
I like the idea of actual throttle cables and mechanical front and rear hatch releases, possibly a more robust motor (why is this) and such of the first gen models but there is something to be said for buying a 5 or 6 year newer car if all else is equal.
Is the increased HP of the 3.6 over the 3.4 really noticeable?
So a C2 it is with all things considered. The 996 won't be driven in the winter so the added complexity, weight and parasitic draw isn't needed.
My color of choice would be red and then white. The "bland" colors make sense from a business sense but in my opinion nothing is nicer looking that a red 996 with tan interior or a white with black. The blues are nice but they all seem to come with grey interiors that I just can't stomach. Too vanilla for my tastes.
I like the idea of actual throttle cables and mechanical front and rear hatch releases, possibly a more robust motor (why is this) and such of the first gen models but there is something to be said for buying a 5 or 6 year newer car if all else is equal.
Is the increased HP of the 3.6 over the 3.4 really noticeable?
Not selling my C4S, BTW. Just putting in my .02c to your deliberations. Good luck and happy hunting for your perfect 911!
#13
Three Wheelin'
I love my 99 (Nov 98 build). Don't miss the glove box at all. Keep my stuff in the arm rest cubby. Easier to access than having to reach over to a glove box. I also like my 4 spoke steering wheel as it's a throwback to the 993. Mine's black which some may consider bland but with the M030 suspension, aftermarket wheels and factory aero kit I get tons of complements. I've lost track of the amount of times I've been at a stoplight and the guy in the car next to me rolls down his window to ask about the car and give compliments. Not too shabby for a 20yr old car that I paid about he same price as a Toyota Corolla for.
#14
Rennlist Member
Doc has it covered.
1999-200x, the market buyers just wanted silver black and sometimes white. It's just a style/timing thing of that era.
The 3.6l engines "feel" faster than the 3.4l engines because they have more torque down low. But in fact, they are not really faster, especially from 4200 RPM and up.
99s and 00s are generally cheaper but are a bit more basic.
I have only had RWD Porsche's, but I must admit, the wider rear end of the C4/S looks better. And coupled with the fact that Porsche really knows how to do AWD very well, I would not overlook a C4. Some people like RWD to have fun with throttle-on oversteer, but that's actually difficult to do with some much weight in the back even with just RWD. And even C2s in the winter are fine, so that's not even an issue either (doesn't apply to you regardless).
So that leaves you with pretty much all options on the table.
1999-200x, the market buyers just wanted silver black and sometimes white. It's just a style/timing thing of that era.
The 3.6l engines "feel" faster than the 3.4l engines because they have more torque down low. But in fact, they are not really faster, especially from 4200 RPM and up.
99s and 00s are generally cheaper but are a bit more basic.
I have only had RWD Porsche's, but I must admit, the wider rear end of the C4/S looks better. And coupled with the fact that Porsche really knows how to do AWD very well, I would not overlook a C4. Some people like RWD to have fun with throttle-on oversteer, but that's actually difficult to do with some much weight in the back even with just RWD. And even C2s in the winter are fine, so that's not even an issue either (doesn't apply to you regardless).
So that leaves you with pretty much all options on the table.
#15
I have been doing as much research as I can. Sometimes reading too much makes the decision harder but, eventually I will narrow down my choices and the right car will find me.
Even though I am in Massachusetts I am willing to travel for a nice car. I have bought others that came from Texas, California and Washington state. Zero rust is important to me.
I do like the pictures I have seen of the wider back end C4 body and I have read that, at least the later ones, have some of the same bits as the turbo car? In all honesty, the car will probably never be driver anywhere near its limits as I really wouldn't want to risk over driving my abilities and risking an accident, the car won't be tracked, but, my drive to work does have about a 20 mile section of very twisty road that runs along a reservoir and though the mountains that I can only assume would be a fun drive.
I have always been told not to buy a car based on color but, if I'm buying a Porsche it will be a color that stands out. My 87 BMW M6 is bright red and I wouldn't want it any other color.
If it matters, I consider myself a pretty competent DIYer. Currently doing an auto to manual swap in my BMW E30 iX and its not a challenge to me. Timing chains, water pumps, valve adjustments, fuel pumps, water pumps etc.. are well within my abilities. Mind you I have never done these on a 911 but, I don't think I would be intimidated at having a go at replacing my own RMS, IMS and clutch. Not having a lift may be a challenge but, I am not stranger to working under a car up on jack stands.
Even though I am in Massachusetts I am willing to travel for a nice car. I have bought others that came from Texas, California and Washington state. Zero rust is important to me.
I do like the pictures I have seen of the wider back end C4 body and I have read that, at least the later ones, have some of the same bits as the turbo car? In all honesty, the car will probably never be driver anywhere near its limits as I really wouldn't want to risk over driving my abilities and risking an accident, the car won't be tracked, but, my drive to work does have about a 20 mile section of very twisty road that runs along a reservoir and though the mountains that I can only assume would be a fun drive.
I have always been told not to buy a car based on color but, if I'm buying a Porsche it will be a color that stands out. My 87 BMW M6 is bright red and I wouldn't want it any other color.
If it matters, I consider myself a pretty competent DIYer. Currently doing an auto to manual swap in my BMW E30 iX and its not a challenge to me. Timing chains, water pumps, valve adjustments, fuel pumps, water pumps etc.. are well within my abilities. Mind you I have never done these on a 911 but, I don't think I would be intimidated at having a go at replacing my own RMS, IMS and clutch. Not having a lift may be a challenge but, I am not stranger to working under a car up on jack stands.