Thinking about a 996 for a daily driver???
06-12-2017, 12:46 PM
#16
Welcome! Yes, please be sure to check out our book and our free tech articles (posted below). They'll be a great resource to you and your 996. Also, the Bentley Manual may be a good book to have in your collection as well. We are offering 10% off on them right now. Anyways, good luck with the search/purchase. If you ever need anything please do not hesitate to let me know. 
101 Projects Book: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...bkdemp_pg2.htm
Tech Articles: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/996_tech.htm
Bentley Manual: http://www.pelicanparts.com/promos/1...72017/Porsche/
101 Projects Book: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...bkdemp_pg2.htm
Tech Articles: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/996_tech.htm
Bentley Manual: http://www.pelicanparts.com/promos/1...72017/Porsche/
06-12-2017, 03:01 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
^This^ is exactly what I was going to say. If you're driving it daily and only putting 5k on it in a year, that means lots of short drives... These engines do best when they get up to full operating temp. (200 deg. F). It seems like the ones that get driven regularly and spiritedly run for a long, long time Good luck
Good luck
06-12-2017, 06:19 PM
#18
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I'll make a few points. I think it's consensus that you don't need a low mileage example. Save money and get one that's been driven with good records. As a low mileage owner, I feel like I just paid a premium for low mileage without getting any benefits.
If you're thinking about the cab, it is great with the top down. With the top up, it's noisy and creaky relative to the coupe - also the rear set is more upright making it even more worthless than the coupe seats (which are not great to begin with). Also make sure all the convertible top apparatus is in good working order (including rear window regulators).
I don't know what you consider dependable. I try to do as much as work as possible, I've missed about 3 weeks of driving days in the past year as I was waiting on parts/finding time to work on it. It would probably be less for you as I'm a novice and I've broken things while working on stuff and had to wait for replacement parts.
If you're thinking about the cab, it is great with the top down. With the top up, it's noisy and creaky relative to the coupe - also the rear set is more upright making it even more worthless than the coupe seats (which are not great to begin with). Also make sure all the convertible top apparatus is in good working order (including rear window regulators).
I don't know what you consider dependable. I try to do as much as work as possible, I've missed about 3 weeks of driving days in the past year as I was waiting on parts/finding time to work on it. It would probably be less for you as I'm a novice and I've broken things while working on stuff and had to wait for replacement parts.
06-12-2017, 06:33 PM
#19
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I'll make a few points. I think it's consensus that you don't need a low mileage example. Save money and get one that's been driven with good records. As a low mileage owner, I feel like I just paid a premium for low mileage without getting any benefits.
If you're thinking about the cab, it is great with the top down. With the top up, it's noisy and creaky relative to the coupe.
If you're thinking about the cab, it is great with the top down. With the top up, it's noisy and creaky relative to the coupe.
I would love a Targa but they are tough to find so I was thinking about a Cab and then just getting a hard top for the winter.
06-12-2017, 06:57 PM
#20
I use my 2001 C4 cab as a daily driver. Just finished my first year, put about 8000 miles on it. The only things I have had to fix were not "commute" retated. I had the 60000 mile service done by the local independent, and replaced 2 window regulators. 1 Front, 1 Rear. Other than that, a couple of oil changes. Nothing better than climbing into the Porsche after a frustrating day at work. Best therapy ever. Top down, ready for a high speed drive home.
06-12-2017, 07:39 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
I use my 2001 C4 cab as a daily driver. Just finished my first year, put about 8000 miles on it. The only things I have had to fix were not "commute" retated. I had the 60000 mile service done by the local independent, and replaced 2 window regulators. 1 Front, 1 Rear. Other than that, a couple of oil changes. Nothing better than climbing into the Porsche after a frustrating day at work. Best therapy ever. Top down, ready for a high speed drive home.
06-12-2017, 07:46 PM
#22
The part was expensive! I found it cheapest from Gaudin Porsche in Vegas (about 720.00 with shipping). I did the work myself, took about 2 hours to remove and replace. I found directions online, a little confusing, but once I figured out what I was supposed to do, not a big deal. Hopefully it will be good for the life of the car now.
06-12-2017, 07:54 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
The part was expensive! I found it cheapest from Gaudin Porsche in Vegas (about 720.00 with shipping). I did the work myself, took about 2 hours to remove and replace. I found directions online, a little confusing, but once I figured out what I was supposed to do, not a big deal. Hopefully it will be good for the life of the car now.
06-12-2017, 08:10 PM
#24
there's a 996 pricing guide thread somewhere around here, but I can't seem to pull it up in search.
From my perspective there are some easy ways to reduce risk when buying a 996:
- give it a good, hard drive before buying. Make sure it can perform at a level you expect (once oil is warm).
- long term ownership a plus. Avoid cars with brand new IMS work unless documented with either a warranty or work by an LN certified tech. There are too many sob stories of new bearings with only a few miles on them being sold & promptly blowing up.
- something as simple as engine mounts can tip you off to deferred maintenance. Even if you just use it as a bargaining chip, figure out a few key areas you'll focus on and don't be afraid to use them to work on a fair price.
- Check the inside tread on the rear tires. I didn't spot some cracking there & was quickly in possession of a $700 bill for a new set of rears. From what a mechanic told me, the wear pattern on a properly aligned 996 should be biased towards the insides of the tires.
- Check the coolant level & color to make sure it's up to spec (full, no leaks in visible piping, etc.)
- A DME report is helpful & can tip you off to a motor with any recent range 2 overrevs (>limiter)
this list is far from comprehensive but may give you an extra idea or two to help
GL
From my perspective there are some easy ways to reduce risk when buying a 996:
- give it a good, hard drive before buying. Make sure it can perform at a level you expect (once oil is warm).
- long term ownership a plus. Avoid cars with brand new IMS work unless documented with either a warranty or work by an LN certified tech. There are too many sob stories of new bearings with only a few miles on them being sold & promptly blowing up.
- something as simple as engine mounts can tip you off to deferred maintenance. Even if you just use it as a bargaining chip, figure out a few key areas you'll focus on and don't be afraid to use them to work on a fair price.
- Check the inside tread on the rear tires. I didn't spot some cracking there & was quickly in possession of a $700 bill for a new set of rears. From what a mechanic told me, the wear pattern on a properly aligned 996 should be biased towards the insides of the tires.
- Check the coolant level & color to make sure it's up to spec (full, no leaks in visible piping, etc.)
- A DME report is helpful & can tip you off to a motor with any recent range 2 overrevs (>limiter)
this list is far from comprehensive but may give you an extra idea or two to help
GL
06-12-2017, 09:07 PM
#25
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I think 50-75K miles is fine. That's what I was looking for when I came across my current car.
The newest 996's are ~13 years old, they can start nickel and diming (and more) right away. To mitigate chances of a big loss, get thorough PPI. I find the IMS Pre-qualification addresses a lot of the big ticket items http://imsretrofit.com/pre-procedure-qualification/
If the previous owner hasn't had these addressed, you are looking at some time and $ do preventative maintenance - IMS, RMS, waterpump (every 4 yrs) and maybe new coolant tank, and AOS. If you don't want to wait, the Indy will charge $3-5K for this. There may be more if the clutch/flywheel need to changed.
Be sure to drive the cab with top up, down, with the hardtop and compare it to driving a coupe before you buy. I don't know that I could live with the cab if the top wasn't open most of the time.
The newest 996's are ~13 years old, they can start nickel and diming (and more) right away. To mitigate chances of a big loss, get thorough PPI. I find the IMS Pre-qualification addresses a lot of the big ticket items http://imsretrofit.com/pre-procedure-qualification/
If the previous owner hasn't had these addressed, you are looking at some time and $ do preventative maintenance - IMS, RMS, waterpump (every 4 yrs) and maybe new coolant tank, and AOS. If you don't want to wait, the Indy will charge $3-5K for this. There may be more if the clutch/flywheel need to changed.
Be sure to drive the cab with top up, down, with the hardtop and compare it to driving a coupe before you buy. I don't know that I could live with the cab if the top wasn't open most of the time.
06-12-2017, 10:31 PM
#26
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I just bought one as a daily and love it. A C4S in New England was hard to pass up when I found it. The mileage was low, but the service records back to the day it was purchased made me feel a bit better about the maintenance history. I had the IMS and RMS done immediately simply for peace of mind. I drive about 60 miles daily part in traffic but a good portion can be spirited driving, which I suspect will be my daily therapy.
06-12-2017, 10:56 PM
#27
It's a great daily driver. I've only driven mine one winter(it was stored the rest of them) but it was better than almost any other car in the snow(just put a good set of Blizzaks on it). From a repair standpoint, the A8 can't be cheap, so I would not be concerned about the 996.
06-12-2017, 11:53 PM
#29
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Agree with above comments. About 23k over the last year and a half plus a couple dozen autocrosses. Car is DIY friendly (unless you break the oil filler tube ;-) and a hoot to drive on the backroads or in mild traffic. I have other vehicles to drive, so if I just washed it, I may wait 'til tomorrow. If it's already dirty . . .
DEW-IT!
DEW-IT!
