996 Suspension Question
#16
#17
I'm open to any suggestions, I was at the race shop where my car is being built, I looked underneath several race cars that was on a lift, It was beautiful, everything was shiny and colorful and amazing. So I feel in love, so did my 996 cause she was on the ground gandering underneath those old girls skirts, cause I had my hands all in there glory.
#19
Burning Brakes
For the OP, coilovers are overkill. The stock suspension on these are very fun, even on the track. PSS10 are good road/track combo shocks but gain you nothing in a road only scenario. The Tarett JRZ package is the suspension package for the SP996 race cars. It's a great package on the track, but once again, not on the road. I would look at going back with stock or, if you want something a little firmer, the US M030 996 package. You can also just go with a new set of Koni struts and come out pretty well.
@ OP ... around here in Upstate NY, many of our secondary roads are lousy with potholes, and even some of our highways aren't very smooth. I'm in the process of upgrading my car to Koni FSD's, which I think will work well on our bumpy roads. What I'm hoping -- BTW, my car is street only -- is to get a little bit firmer handling while maintaining or improving compliance over uneven pavement. There's no way I would lower my car very much, given local road conditions. I had considered US M030 or maybe RoW M030, but nothing more extreme than that.
#20
I have the h&r street performance coilovers , matching h&r swaybars at both ends and critically street powerflex Poly bushes everywhere . ( these cars are of an age where bushes should be done)
This is an excellent performance street set up , and is quite a bit less than the pss10s .
The h&r sp coilovers are bilstein based but only adjustable for height .
They are very well set up , and unless I was tracking the car a lot I don't really see the need for fully adjustable ones .
I use the car for long trips and twisty mountain roads . And some boring daily driver work . They are fine even on Canadian roads
I had mo30 row previously and this is a much better set up.
I really like the h&r sp units , and they are made in Germany so are better quality than cheaper offshore units.
This is an excellent performance street set up , and is quite a bit less than the pss10s .
The h&r sp coilovers are bilstein based but only adjustable for height .
They are very well set up , and unless I was tracking the car a lot I don't really see the need for fully adjustable ones .
I use the car for long trips and twisty mountain roads . And some boring daily driver work . They are fine even on Canadian roads
I had mo30 row previously and this is a much better set up.
I really like the h&r sp units , and they are made in Germany so are better quality than cheaper offshore units.
#21
Rennlist Member
Here is my suspension list I put together when I was going to sell my track car. The prices are for new though I bought most of the pieces off of RL Classifieds.
* JRZ Cup 3-way adjustable Shocks with remotes ($10k) – The cup shocks are more heavy-duty but the rears are too short. So I custom fabbed an aluminum spacer to extend them and they work very well.
* Eibach main and helper springs ($650)
* Tarett Front Monoball Camber Plates ($450)
* Tarett Rear Monoball Shock Mounts ($435)
* Tarret Rear Droplink Bracket – ($250)
* GT3 Sway Front and Rear Adjustable sway bars ( $1100)
* Tarett Front and Rear adjustable drop links ($450)
* GT3 Lower control arms with solid thrust bushing and monoball subframe mounts ($2750) –
* GMG Front Adjustable Thrust Arms ($900) – These are ridiculously expensive. I was lucky enough to find a used pair because they are very nice for adjusting caster for 245/645/18 slicks
* Tarett Rear Toe Control Arms ($400)
* GMG Rear Upper Control Arms ($1050) – again, the GMG stuff is ridiculously expensive
* Solid Rear Subframe Busings ($400)
* Wevo semi-solid engine mounts ($300)
* JRZ Cup 3-way adjustable Shocks with remotes ($10k) – The cup shocks are more heavy-duty but the rears are too short. So I custom fabbed an aluminum spacer to extend them and they work very well.
* Eibach main and helper springs ($650)
* Tarett Front Monoball Camber Plates ($450)
* Tarett Rear Monoball Shock Mounts ($435)
* Tarret Rear Droplink Bracket – ($250)
* GT3 Sway Front and Rear Adjustable sway bars ( $1100)
* Tarett Front and Rear adjustable drop links ($450)
* GT3 Lower control arms with solid thrust bushing and monoball subframe mounts ($2750) –
* GMG Front Adjustable Thrust Arms ($900) – These are ridiculously expensive. I was lucky enough to find a used pair because they are very nice for adjusting caster for 245/645/18 slicks
* Tarett Rear Toe Control Arms ($400)
* GMG Rear Upper Control Arms ($1050) – again, the GMG stuff is ridiculously expensive
* Solid Rear Subframe Busings ($400)
* Wevo semi-solid engine mounts ($300)
#24
Rennlist Member
There are some kits that will allow sway bar adjustments from the cab and some of the electronic dampener systems have some controls but the idea is to get a setup that fits all normal driving and leave it. Then, if you ever go to the track, you can stiffen it up to a level you wouldn't want in on the street and turn it back when you are done.
#28
Race Car
#29
Burning Brakes