Camshaft position sensor location
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
It's really heartbreaking at the moment, I've thrown all the cash possibly for me to get this car restored, I have the sensor coming, I have some nice engine mounts to tuck my exhaust back up from worn mounts, I've done a ton of work to this Car. I've restored her back to original, but , now the engine is fighting me, I know these cars are very reliable and if taking care of they run great. Now I've jumped into this restoring full swing, I'm just trying to get these last few things button up. The aos job , I'll do that If I can, I'm just trying to keep her out the hands of a dealership right now. So far, I've not had her at the dealer for anything other than the code, cel code, then had a buddy back that code up with his scanner, so the code is showing up on 2 different obd
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
I have to get some rest now, I've been under this care hoping for a miracle that I can remove this sensor. find this sensor, but I can't feel or see anything. I've been under the car now for 6 hours straight, I have not accomplished anything but to bloody myself up pretty good. So I'm going to wash the oil and dirt of these tired s hands one more time and I'm going to bed, If anyone that's a Porsche 996 guy please help, I'm in Beaufort South Carolina and Im on a Marine Corpse base begging for help!!!
#18
P0343 is most likely a wire/connector issue and not the sensor itself. The factory manual says some wire is shorted to the +12v. However, I saw one case with the sensor disconnected that also caused this code. I would shift my focus to the wiring.
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
Can't get to the wiring either, she is done, I've waisted my time and money for to long, we will see how well she likes me now with a torch in my hand , lol. This car want get the best of this Marine, so I'll burn her down!! Salvage Guy sound very excited when I told him I was bringing a keltec ksg and 500 rds of 223 also
#22
Rennlist Member
your first mistake was throwing parts at the problem without properly diagnosing it. Given the prices of parts on these things, it'll drive you crazy very quickly. Though they're fairly easy to work on physically, they are also fairly complex from an engineering standpoint (y'know, the whole German thing...). What I'm trying to say is that it's often something very simple shrouded in codes and "parts"... Don't burn it yet 😉
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
I've gave the car a chance to work with me, plus there is no one here worth anything to work or fix this car, the dealer, there just crooks, called them, they said 3800 then that's possible it want work afterwards
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
I have not thrown parts at anything, I've only brought the car around from being a total piece of aftermarket crap, the paint has been redone, the broken convertible has been fixed, all the interior has been replaced, I've not thrown any parts at this that was not broken
#25
Drifting
Sorry for your loss.
These cars are complicated and sometimes obscure mechanisms. The learning curve is humbling & steep even for those of us who were (mistakenly ?) considered competent mechanics/engineers. Even with the help of this Forum ,there can be times you need a competent ,honest Indie. This case is a good example.
Without an Indie's dispassionate experience, at least start with list of potential causes for a a fault code.Give a list of all related work done and your competence level.
even without all that you got the answer anyway - Post 18 is the probable cause.Post 19 gave you links and a hint of how to find more. Problems like this can take hours of such research.
You could have found the answer by Searching by the Fault Code here or RennTech.
I recently did this because I failed to reattach the Cam Sensor connector when working in that area. It is very tight in that tiny space and difficult to illuminate.But it is doable. My fix was Zero cost in $ but huge cost in self humiliation.
To help you dispose of your car, why not advertise it here on Rennlist ?
These cars are complicated and sometimes obscure mechanisms. The learning curve is humbling & steep even for those of us who were (mistakenly ?) considered competent mechanics/engineers. Even with the help of this Forum ,there can be times you need a competent ,honest Indie. This case is a good example.
Without an Indie's dispassionate experience, at least start with list of potential causes for a a fault code.Give a list of all related work done and your competence level.
even without all that you got the answer anyway - Post 18 is the probable cause.Post 19 gave you links and a hint of how to find more. Problems like this can take hours of such research.
You could have found the answer by Searching by the Fault Code here or RennTech.
I recently did this because I failed to reattach the Cam Sensor connector when working in that area. It is very tight in that tiny space and difficult to illuminate.But it is doable. My fix was Zero cost in $ but huge cost in self humiliation.
To help you dispose of your car, why not advertise it here on Rennlist ?
#26
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
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It's not fighting you, but there are some damn difficult jobs on our cars.
Your engine is M96/01 confirmed.
Misfires on Bank 1, left side of engine, cylinders 1,2,3, as standing at the rear bumper looking into the engine bay.
The hall sender/camshaft position sensor is Part #34 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=103-00 located on the top rear of the Bank 1 Cylinder Head.
You will probably have to follow the same procedure for AOS replacement to get to it. A real PITA but doable with engine in car, dropped to the lowest level sitting on the cross-member.
Just realized I'm late to the game! Started reading on page 1 and only got through that. So sorry for the repeat information! However, heres hoping for success for your project
Your engine is M96/01 confirmed.
Misfires on Bank 1, left side of engine, cylinders 1,2,3, as standing at the rear bumper looking into the engine bay.
The hall sender/camshaft position sensor is Part #34 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=103-00 located on the top rear of the Bank 1 Cylinder Head.
You will probably have to follow the same procedure for AOS replacement to get to it. A real PITA but doable with engine in car, dropped to the lowest level sitting on the cross-member.
Just realized I'm late to the game! Started reading on page 1 and only got through that. So sorry for the repeat information! However, heres hoping for success for your project
#28
In addition to posts 18,19,25,26, you also need to walk away and calm down. These things can be very frustrating and being mad at while trying to work on it does no good.
Since you are going to change the motor mounts anyway, go ahead and remove them, and let the engine rest on the cross member, that will give you about 2 more inches of clearance in that area.
Remove the AOS, the procedure is well documented, find it.
Then check the wiring, and replace the sender if required.
Install new AOS.
Enjoy your car.
Since you are going to change the motor mounts anyway, go ahead and remove them, and let the engine rest on the cross member, that will give you about 2 more inches of clearance in that area.
Remove the AOS, the procedure is well documented, find it.
Then check the wiring, and replace the sender if required.
Install new AOS.
Enjoy your car.
#30
Rennlist Member
I think Hotrodaxle is a troll... I find it difficult to believe he bought this car, did all this work on it and then had it junked because he couldn't figure out a fault code... Really?
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Hotrod2147 (03-31-2021)