5CHN3LL

Nothing to be ashamed of. It's not rocket science, but there is some alchemy/dark arts involved; taking it to someone who knows the tricks is a LOT faster than leaving it disassembled until you accumulate the knowledge you need to put it back together with some expectation of it running.

I could use a LOT of professional help, but that's a story for RLOT.

robman

The mechanic called and told me he couldn't find anything wrong with the motor so he installed my eps Ims bearing and told me I could come pick it up. I can't figure out why I wasn't reading any compression on number six cylinder. May be my gauge is bad. Now I'll have to figure out why it wouldn't start.
I ordered new water pump , aos, oil pressure unit and plugs while I have the engine out. Anything else I should do while motor is out?
Clutch , throw out bearing , flywheel , pressure plate and rms only has 2000 miles on it.

Flat6 Innovations

it probably had a lifter hang a valve open... it'll probably happen again if that's the case.

Ahsai

Did they do any compression or leak down test?
​​​​​​You may want to check your compression gauge and its one way valve.

robman

They said everything checked out. It's a mystery to me.

Ahsai

I don't know how confident you are with your shop but if you want to do some sanity checks yourself before reinstalling the engine, this is a great tool


Just remove all the spark plugs and attach the tool to the cyl #1 spark plug hole. Turn the engine (clockwise only) until you hear the whistle. The sound should stop close to the tdc mark on the crank pulley. Then put the tool in cyl 6 and repeat. The tdc of #6 should be at 120 degrees after #1. Follow the firing order(1-6-2-4-3-5) to check the remaining cylinders every 120 degrees.

This test will confirm you have compression in the cylinders and the timing is in general correct.

You can also remove the green cam plugs to visually check if the timing is perfect on both banks. You will need to replace those with new plugs afterwards.

robman

Ok, I got the motor back in after having the ims replaced and it fired right up. But there is a knocking sound coming from the bank 1 side that wasn't there before and the check engine light came on. The code that came up was p1340 bank 1 timing out timing sensor. What tha hell? Is that going to be expensive to fix?

Schnell Gelb

Pop out the green plugs for the exhaust and Inlet cam on Bank 1 - do a visual check of timing at TDC.
Search for the long thread started by Insite for details
DO NOT DRIVE IT ! until you have done the Timing check
http://986forum.com/forums/performan...iming-m96.html
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi.../?_fromLogin=1

robman

Thanks, I look for the thread.

Schnell Gelb

See link above

Ahsai

Hence my post #22 above. I tried to warn you...

robman

If the camshaft sensor is bad can it throw the timing off?

Ahsai

No, it's the bank 1 timing, or the variocam actuator. The sensors have their own codes. It's likely the former given the work done on it hence Schnell's suggestion of checking the cams for proper timing.

Also check out this thread:

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/34821-ims-replaced-now-throwing-p1340-and-p1341/

Flat6 Innovations

Lots of missing puzzle pieces here..
Was the old bearing failing?
Were the cams and crank locked properly during the IMSR procedure?

This whole scenario seems a little too haphazard for my liking. Lots of things could have happened here.

robman

yes the Ims was installed properly by an Indy. I thought my original problem was Ims failure at start up. Turns out the Ims was fine.
It would not start and it sounded like it had jumped time while it was turning over. That's why I dropped the engine. The Indy couldn't find any problems with the timing so he installed the new Ims and I reinstalled the engine and it started right up but is making a slight knocking sound from bank 1 side and engine code was p1340.