Pseudo Nim

I think my best option is to find alternates, but it doesn't sound like an easy task considering shallow depth, hmm.

dan_189

I've seen it done on here before so its not impossible

thebowl

Do you have the Bose speaker system, with a "band pass" unit behind the rear seats that has two ports? Inside that are two drivers (5 1/2", IIRC). If so, install a decent power amp and head unit, match the resistance properly (those rear drivers are each 1 ohm. They need to be connected in series to run off of most power amps. Set the cross-overs, and play with the EQ. You will probably be surprised at the amount of bass you can get from the existing speakers.

ditto

I put 6.5's in my doors no problem. The door panels have a purpose made sealed space behind the speakers.

Esfoad

When I changed my HU for a double din Pioneer I also had a 5 channel Alpine amp installed in the factory location in the frunk. Then I changed the door and dash speakers for great quality ones and then my shop made a custom encloisure to go where the Bose one goes since I did not want to compromise the rear storage area. I don't carry people back there but we use this car for trips and need the additional space. The sub is an 8" one and the sound is glorious, not too much bass but the perfect complement to the mids and highs. Almost as good as the engine Anyways, this was not cheap but I am too old to fold myself into a car for stereo upgrades and the shop did an amazing job. It looks factory!

dporto

"I put 6.5's in my doors no problem. The door panels have a purpose made sealed space behind the speakers."

"No problem" is sort of a loaded statement, and highly subjective at best. Perhaps no problem for you, but a non-starter for some...

Pseudo Nim

I don't have a Bose system (had I had it, I probably wouldn't be in nearly as much of a pickle). You're suggesting I should find that bar for sale somewhere and install it, then run some wires? It might work, I was thinking of this - only problem is, I looked on eBay and people seem to want $600 for it, which completely inane considering one can get a custom setup for that...

Which brand/model of 6.5s did you get? Did you fit them into the existing brackets or did you have to chop and saw?

ditto

Speakers are: Polk Audio DB651s Slim-Mount 6.5-Inch Coaxial Speakers (Pair)

There was some cutting required. It took 2 minutes per side with a hacksaw. Then I epoxied the surfaces to make them level and t fill holes. Last step was to screw in the speakers with silicone sealant.

The second pix is the cutting, the first is the epoxying. The third is the silicone prior to screwing the speaker in. So not too difficult if you can use basic tools. If you are all thumbs (DPORTO) you will stall out removing the door card. The speakers don't rattle in the doors.

zak996

I put an 8" Bazooka tube behind the rear seats. It fits right into the space and is mostly hidden from view. The benefits of this setup is that the sub is powered (has it's own amp) and can also run off the rear speaker leads. I ground it at the rear under the foamy carpet and ran power to the battery under the centre console.

It can be removed anytime you need the space you just unplug the unit and leave the harness aside. It doesn't look great as far as presentation goes, but you dont notice it from inside the car just if you look in the rear from the outside.

Pseudo Nim

Nice. How do you find the bass though, considering these are basically midrange speakers? This wasn't what I had in mind when I was thinking subwoofers in the doors, but if this is the only way ...

ditto

The bass is fine for me. Given that the music has to compete with a loud engine I think was a good choice. I have a modest sized Alpine Class D amp that takes up the space where the disc cassette was. Real subs need a much large amp and I didn't want to lose the storage space.

It's not a competition system. My MR2 Spyder system sounds better but it has a 300 W amp, high end JL Audio speakers and a small JL Audio sub.

I pointed out that 6.5's fit in the doors thinking that the OP might put subs in there, although at 6.5" some would call them mid bases.

Pseudo Nim

As I said, I'm definitely not looking for earth-shattering bass - so I'm really glad to hear that door-mounted mids at 6.5 make enough sound to make it worthwhile. What do you have in your dash and rear panels?

dporto

2 minutes per side cutting with a hack saw? Sounds unlikely at best...Looks like a bit of a "hack job", but functional. The only big negative in my book is that those aren't subs, and if they're being fed by the stock amp (which is a 2 ohm crossed over/lp signal) I doubt they sound very good or any better than the stock speakers. **I've had both door cards off speakers out etc... I thought I was going to have to replace my subs, but it turned out that the screws were just loose - a little blue loctite took care of them.

ditto

Jeez man, why did you decide to get on my case?

I did the work and I know what it took to do it. You haven't but you've decided to interpret my work for others?

To set you straight. It took me 2 minutes a side to cut off the plastic in the way. There isn't much plastic to be removed. My craftsmanship that you have decided to diss is 100% appropriate for work inside a door. I did the work 2 years ago and no problems so far. The speakers aren't subs. I didn't want subs. Subs could be installed the same way, that was my point. If you read all the posts, I replaced the stock amp with an Alpine Class D. If you care, it took lots longer to mount the amp than the door speakers. The door speakers sound way better than the stock paper coned 5.25". Way better. 18 year old paper speakers are at end of life.

If you want mega bass this approach is not for you, but it fits nicely into the car and is easy enough to install.

I was trying to help the OP with an option, nothing more.

I was not the first to put 6.5's in the doors. A search will find a much more detailed explanation that I used as a reference.

dporto

Wow... easy there bruthah! Whatever you say