Key FOB programming? What's the problem?
#1
Key FOB programming? What's the problem?
2 questions.
Key #1: when I press the unlock button, its a quick solid single flash of red light, and nothing happens. What does this mean?
Spare Key #2: When I press unlock, its a quick blinking red light (as it normally is) but nothing happens. I tried to lock, unlock, then press the key again but it didn't recognize. I used it to unlock and start car, and it still didn't recognize. What's the problem?
Key #1: when I press the unlock button, its a quick solid single flash of red light, and nothing happens. What does this mean?
Spare Key #2: When I press unlock, its a quick blinking red light (as it normally is) but nothing happens. I tried to lock, unlock, then press the key again but it didn't recognize. I used it to unlock and start car, and it still didn't recognize. What's the problem?
#2
Assume you have new batteries in each key fob - CR2032. Next up, either both keys have broken circuit boards or you have lost connection with the immobilizer. Try the battery reversal process, open the key fobs and insert the batteries in reverse for a few seconds. Then put the battery in correctly, unlock car and start the engine. Then shut it down and try the key fobs again. If that doesn't work you are SOL and if you don't want to keep using the manual key to lock/unlock...order new key fobs with a new security code and make a trip to your nearby Porsche dealer to get the keys programmed to the car. Most of the time in old keys it is the circuit board that fails. Mine failed years ago and I simply use the key to lock/unlock.
There are three parts to the key - the laser cut blade which is removable to transfer to a new key fob; the key fob with circuit board; and the passive RFID pill. The circuit board and passive RFID pill tell the car "this is the correct key". The immobilizer is recognizing the passive RFID pill because your key still starts the car. The RFID pill does not need power to be recognized by the car. What is not happening is for the circuit board to transmit, or the immobilizer to not recognize the transmit signal. Did you check under the seat for any dampness? This often leads to problems.
There are three parts to the key - the laser cut blade which is removable to transfer to a new key fob; the key fob with circuit board; and the passive RFID pill. The circuit board and passive RFID pill tell the car "this is the correct key". The immobilizer is recognizing the passive RFID pill because your key still starts the car. The RFID pill does not need power to be recognized by the car. What is not happening is for the circuit board to transmit, or the immobilizer to not recognize the transmit signal. Did you check under the seat for any dampness? This often leads to problems.
#3
^^good advice from Joe... but the only point I'd disagree is the "flipping the battery" technique. Changing the polarity in an electronic device such as a keyfob is risking and usually doesn't work as intended. Normally, if the electronics are malfunctioning, it hasn't nothing to do with 12V polarity.
OP, Are you locked out of your car?
Can you manually open the car using the laser cut portion of the key and start the car?
OP, Are you locked out of your car?
Can you manually open the car using the laser cut portion of the key and start the car?
#4
Similar question. I have a new fob (maybe 6 months old), but it has stopped working with vehicle entirely when I press the lock/unlock button. The red light does not flash and it appears to have stopped communicating at all. I can operate the vehicle and can manually lock the car, but when I unlock (manually) the car the alarm sounds until I turn the key in the ignition.
Don't mean to hijack, but not sure if my issue may caused by something related to the OPs problem.
Suggestions?
Don't mean to hijack, but not sure if my issue may caused by something related to the OPs problem.
Suggestions?
#5
Bump
Bump
Similar question. I have a new fob (maybe 6 months old), but it has stopped working with vehicle entirely when I press the lock/unlock button. The red light does not flash and it appears to have stopped communicating at all. I can operate the vehicle and can manually lock the car, but when I unlock (manually) the car the alarm sounds until I turn the key in the ignition.
Don't mean to hijack, but not sure if my issue may caused by something related to the OPs problem.
Suggestions?
Don't mean to hijack, but not sure if my issue may caused by something related to the OPs problem.
Suggestions?
#6
2 questions.
Key #1: when I press the unlock button, its a quick solid single flash of red light, and nothing happens. What does this mean?
Spare Key #2: When I press unlock, its a quick blinking red light (as it normally is) but nothing happens. I tried to lock, unlock, then press the key again but it didn't recognize. I used it to unlock and start car, and it still didn't recognize. What's the problem?
Key #1: when I press the unlock button, its a quick solid single flash of red light, and nothing happens. What does this mean?
Spare Key #2: When I press unlock, its a quick blinking red light (as it normally is) but nothing happens. I tried to lock, unlock, then press the key again but it didn't recognize. I used it to unlock and start car, and it still didn't recognize. What's the problem?
I'm assuming the former. It's common for the light to keep working long after the remote stops being useful for locking/unlocking the car. It COULD be that you need to check the solder joints on the PCB for the remote and see if there are any loose connections that can be corrected by reflowing the solder on the affected pin(s).
The remotes have a finite lifespan. I replaced both of mine after my "good" one started acting up. I purchased new key heads online, transferred my key to the new heads, and paid the dealership to pair them with the car; this was significantly cheaper than ordering the keys from the parts counter.