I'm I being too picky???
#16
Agreed. It's a one owner car which I initially liked. The seller (small Indy shop/dealer) said it had a new clutch which is not listed on the Carfax. It also went to auction. I'm wondering if the original owner traded it in and the dealer dumped it at an auction due to the clutch being dead (among other things).
#18
Ok guys... here's another angle on this car.
What is the likely hood that the current owner forgot to close the sunroof properly, got rained on and soaked the interior. Instead of doing the right thing and getting the interior completely dried out, instead he carelessly let moisture build up to the point where mold started to develop on the floor mats. Instead of killing the mold on the floor mats, he then threw them in the frunk where the mold spread onto the spare tire cover and elsewhere. It's possible.
Another possibility is that the owner put the floor mats in the frunk while not driving it and parked it in a high moisture area, and then neglected to close the frunk tightly. (maybe he kept it partially opened to allow for a battery trickle charger?) possible?
Anyway...
I wouldn't rule out this car; instead, I'd use the mold/mildew issue as a bargaining point. But if you're like me and have bad allergies, I wouldn't get in that car until all of the mold and mildew are completely eliminated. It can be a seriously health risk.
What is the likely hood that the current owner forgot to close the sunroof properly, got rained on and soaked the interior. Instead of doing the right thing and getting the interior completely dried out, instead he carelessly let moisture build up to the point where mold started to develop on the floor mats. Instead of killing the mold on the floor mats, he then threw them in the frunk where the mold spread onto the spare tire cover and elsewhere. It's possible.
Another possibility is that the owner put the floor mats in the frunk while not driving it and parked it in a high moisture area, and then neglected to close the frunk tightly. (maybe he kept it partially opened to allow for a battery trickle charger?) possible?
Anyway...
I wouldn't rule out this car; instead, I'd use the mold/mildew issue as a bargaining point. But if you're like me and have bad allergies, I wouldn't get in that car until all of the mold and mildew are completely eliminated. It can be a seriously health risk.
#19
I bought the first 996 I looked at and drove in '06 and still own it. I was happy with the ownership history and records. Most important was the condition inside and out. Look for the 996 that doesn't exhibit obvious issues(like mold), or owner neglect. Stick to your guns and keep hunting for the right 911 for you.GL
#20
That's a possibility but I'm going to keep looking. Wasn't just the mold that turned me off. The way the car drove, not feeling tight and the stumbling idle combined with the broken interior bits doesn't have me running to the bank to pull out $22k.
#22
No. And be as picky as you can afford [the time spent]. I'm very picky and would be an annoying buyer to almost any seller (and I apologize for that up front to them). It takes me a long time - maybe 4-6 months to find the car that I really want. I have the time because it's a hobby of mine.
The 996.1s are cheaper for lots of reasons, but to me, they are just as good a driving machine as the 996.2s as long as we're talking about the basics.
The 996.1s are cheaper for lots of reasons, but to me, they are just as good a driving machine as the 996.2s as long as we're talking about the basics.
#23
I looked for 18 months before I bought my '99 C4 Aero.
Then looked for 6 months before buying my current car.
The hunt is half the fun.
That being said, prices are going to go up about 10% starting in a month or so due to the tax refund/spring fever buying season. Inventory will not stay on the market long. Labor Day to just after New Year's Day is the the best time of the year for a buyer. March, April & May the best time to sell a car.
Then looked for 6 months before buying my current car.
The hunt is half the fun.
That being said, prices are going to go up about 10% starting in a month or so due to the tax refund/spring fever buying season. Inventory will not stay on the market long. Labor Day to just after New Year's Day is the the best time of the year for a buyer. March, April & May the best time to sell a car.
#26
agree with that.
small things like a missing button or malfunctioning cupholder.....yea I think you're being too picky. For a 75k mile car in your price range it's not going to be absolutely perfect.
Big things like mold or stumbling idle; yea I'd pass unless you really like the car and negotiate the price down
small things like a missing button or malfunctioning cupholder.....yea I think you're being too picky. For a 75k mile car in your price range it's not going to be absolutely perfect.
Big things like mold or stumbling idle; yea I'd pass unless you really like the car and negotiate the price down
#27
Sounds like you drove a piece of sheet 996.2 go find one that someone actually took care of. If you are willing to spend 22k - 26k then there is no reason to settle for a car with a long list of issues. There are so many 996s for sale you have choices. As a buyer in the 996 market, YOU are in the position to pick an choose.
#28
I think I am more leary of a dealer that would not prep a car well enough to remove the mold more than the car itself.
Like others have said, 996.2 in the mid 20's will buy you a clean well sorted car.
Cars bought and sold at auction do not really scare me, you just need to make sure you are putting your eyes on the car. Getting a PPI can really vary by the shop and what you are willing to pay. If you cannot get a comprehensive ppi or do not want to spend the money then make yourself a checklist of items to check and plan on at least a 30 minute test drive.
If it's a dealership schedule yourself a time early morning to look at the car, then show up a half hour earlier than anyone will be there. That way you are there for the first start of the day. That will also give you a few minutes to walk around and really look at the exterior of the car to find flaws and potentioanl body work.
Check production date on tires, get a visual on pad wear, look on ground and engine block for oil and coolant leaks. During test drive make sure to check every single button and switch works. If the dealership has a lift ask to put on the lift and get a good visual under the car, bring a flashlights. Stick your head under the seats, pull back carpet in the trunk.
I drove 5 hours to pick my car up, was assured it was "perfect" got there and predictably it was not. Passenger door latch needed replaced as the window was not dropping, and turn signal was not turning itself off. Both common 996 issues with lots of DIY write ups. I played dumb to that, told them I was going to leave if we could not get it repaired that day or price adjusted, and I meant it. The dealership conceded, I got retail price and labor rate off the car for those repairs and I drove the car home.
The thing I noticed during my shopping for 996 is the difference between a super clean 996 and a very nice 996 is about 4-5k, and difference between a nice 996 and rough 996 is about 6-8k.
Decide how you are going to use the car and budget you have. My 996 is an extra car in the house, but I drive it 5-7k miles a year. I also have a 4 year old that likes me to drive her to school and soccer practice in the car. I did not want a perfect car, I wanted a really nice drivers car. My car is not cosmetically perfect enough for me to flip out when my daughter walks past brushing against the car, or crawls in unassisted into her car seat.
You are on the right path looking at multiple cars, keep your eyes open, set search alerts for new listings on Autotrader and eBay. Nice cars come and go quickly, overpriced and rough cars languish in listings.
Like others have said, 996.2 in the mid 20's will buy you a clean well sorted car.
Cars bought and sold at auction do not really scare me, you just need to make sure you are putting your eyes on the car. Getting a PPI can really vary by the shop and what you are willing to pay. If you cannot get a comprehensive ppi or do not want to spend the money then make yourself a checklist of items to check and plan on at least a 30 minute test drive.
If it's a dealership schedule yourself a time early morning to look at the car, then show up a half hour earlier than anyone will be there. That way you are there for the first start of the day. That will also give you a few minutes to walk around and really look at the exterior of the car to find flaws and potentioanl body work.
Check production date on tires, get a visual on pad wear, look on ground and engine block for oil and coolant leaks. During test drive make sure to check every single button and switch works. If the dealership has a lift ask to put on the lift and get a good visual under the car, bring a flashlights. Stick your head under the seats, pull back carpet in the trunk.
I drove 5 hours to pick my car up, was assured it was "perfect" got there and predictably it was not. Passenger door latch needed replaced as the window was not dropping, and turn signal was not turning itself off. Both common 996 issues with lots of DIY write ups. I played dumb to that, told them I was going to leave if we could not get it repaired that day or price adjusted, and I meant it. The dealership conceded, I got retail price and labor rate off the car for those repairs and I drove the car home.
The thing I noticed during my shopping for 996 is the difference between a super clean 996 and a very nice 996 is about 4-5k, and difference between a nice 996 and rough 996 is about 6-8k.
Decide how you are going to use the car and budget you have. My 996 is an extra car in the house, but I drive it 5-7k miles a year. I also have a 4 year old that likes me to drive her to school and soccer practice in the car. I did not want a perfect car, I wanted a really nice drivers car. My car is not cosmetically perfect enough for me to flip out when my daughter walks past brushing against the car, or crawls in unassisted into her car seat.
You are on the right path looking at multiple cars, keep your eyes open, set search alerts for new listings on Autotrader and eBay. Nice cars come and go quickly, overpriced and rough cars languish in listings.
#29
Thanks DB. A lot of great advice there. I reached out to a guy in NC with a black 99 w/aero. If I can find a local rennlister to go take a look at the car that would be a huge help. If I could arrange a PPI and a flight out there that would be the next step.
I'll be using the car in a very similar fashion to you. I have a 4 yr old daughter too and the 911 will be used for weekend canyon and coast runs with the wife and kid.
I'll be using the car in a very similar fashion to you. I have a 4 yr old daughter too and the 911 will be used for weekend canyon and coast runs with the wife and kid.
Last edited by Bash Hat; 12-29-2016 at 02:09 PM.
#30