shudder in first gear
11-10-2016, 10:50 AM
#16
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, hmm. The flywheel explanation does make sense, as much as I don't want it to.
As it's driving fine today, I'm not running down to the indy shop to drop the engine and trans right away. I'm sure the shuddering will come back and get worse over time- any downside to putting this inspection/ repair off until the symptoms come back/get worse? As in...am I setting myself up for worse damage or damage to other components by not fixing it right away? I figure if that's the culprit, clutch plate and flywheel will need to be replaced and not just 'fixed.' I'd hate to go through the expense of this now based on symptoms which have disappeared. But...does this somehow lead to IMS doom???
appreciate the info, guys. And don't worry, washed her yesterday.
As it's driving fine today, I'm not running down to the indy shop to drop the engine and trans right away. I'm sure the shuddering will come back and get worse over time- any downside to putting this inspection/ repair off until the symptoms come back/get worse? As in...am I setting myself up for worse damage or damage to other components by not fixing it right away? I figure if that's the culprit, clutch plate and flywheel will need to be replaced and not just 'fixed.' I'd hate to go through the expense of this now based on symptoms which have disappeared. But...does this somehow lead to IMS doom???
appreciate the info, guys. And don't worry, washed her yesterday.
11-10-2016, 10:59 AM
#17
Similar thing happen to mine, i ve taken the plunge and changing the flywheel etc. I am not sure if you run it longer the way it is will cause other issues. but its worth doing the imsb, aos clutch when you have the gearbox out, so price in all of those.
I have read on here about some issues with single mass flywheels, i am not sure if a failing dual mass would cause similar affects. I didnt take the risk.
I have read on here about some issues with single mass flywheels, i am not sure if a failing dual mass would cause similar affects. I didnt take the risk.
11-11-2016, 10:56 AM
#18
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Ok, hmm. The flywheel explanation does make sense, as much as I don't want it to.
As it's driving fine today, I'm not running down to the indy shop to drop the engine and trans right away. I'm sure the shuddering will come back and get worse over time- any downside to putting this inspection/ repair off until the symptoms come back/get worse? As in...am I setting myself up for worse damage or damage to other components by not fixing it right away?
As it's driving fine today, I'm not running down to the indy shop to drop the engine and trans right away. I'm sure the shuddering will come back and get worse over time- any downside to putting this inspection/ repair off until the symptoms come back/get worse? As in...am I setting myself up for worse damage or damage to other components by not fixing it right away?
11-11-2016, 11:45 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
When were the plugs/coils last changed? Your rain induced "shudder" could be an engine miss caused by cracks in the coils. This is relatively common on high mileage 996s.
11-11-2016, 06:56 PM
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No idea when the coils/plugs were changed. The previous owner had the car for ten years; no mention of this in any of the service records he provided.
So, sounds like new plugs/coil packs would be in order even if that's not the culprit. Adding it to my list. Is this something the average home mechanic can DIY? I'm assuming access is the major issue.
So, sounds like new plugs/coil packs would be in order even if that's not the culprit. Adding it to my list. Is this something the average home mechanic can DIY? I'm assuming access is the major issue.
11-11-2016, 07:00 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Straightforward DIY project IMO. You will need the right combo of tools to get the socket back to the plugs since they are in there pretty deep. A couple of cylinders are a PIA but it really isn't difficult, just aggravating.
sucked in by a 7 year old thread! 
08-08-2023, 10:14 AM
#24
Hi everyone- just started having a new issue with my 2003 C4 S and thought I'd look to the collective wisdom here for a short list of places to start with for diagnosis. I noticed 2 days ago that the car shudders when going from stop to moving in first gear (manual transmission)- almost like its trying to stall. No problems once I'm moving a few MPH, no problems in any other gears, although I noticed this symptom in reverse yesterday as well. It almost feels like the clutch is slipping, if that makes sense; but once I'm moving I don't see the revs jump up or anything that would going along with a slipping clutch (from what I've read on that issue in general, anyway), and again no problems in any other gear. Car has 91K miles, not sure if its the original clutch or not. No change in clutch pedal feel.I checked the brake/clutch fluid reservoir and the fluid is at the max fill line- was hoping it would be something simple like that that I could start with.
Sorry if this has been covered here before, but a rather extensive search has not yielded a thread that seems to be helpful for this.
So I'm thinking:
-clutch or related component, throw out bearing, etc?
-engine mounts?
-other bad things that I hope I don't have to think about right away
Any thoughts as for how to start diagnosing this would be GREATLY appreciated.
Sorry if this has been covered here before, but a rather extensive search has not yielded a thread that seems to be helpful for this.
So I'm thinking:
-clutch or related component, throw out bearing, etc?
-engine mounts?
-other bad things that I hope I don't have to think about right away
Any thoughts as for how to start diagnosing this would be GREATLY appreciated.
Last edited by ermandadana; 08-08-2023 at 12:07 PM.
08-08-2023, 03:39 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
The dual mass flywheel rubber bond ages with heat and time, IT gets softer.
Then add a worn disk and if it shudders because of low speed slip, the dual mass flywheel can amplify the affect.
I find my car doesn't like the clutch being slipped, for the smoothest takeoff, you have to get your foot off the clutch,
with small throttle input and feed it throttle AFTER its engaged.
You can feed a bore scope in through the air vent on the passenger side of the bell housing
and look around for broken pieces , it's tight and all grey so not a great view without fiddling.
Then add a worn disk and if it shudders because of low speed slip, the dual mass flywheel can amplify the affect.
I find my car doesn't like the clutch being slipped, for the smoothest takeoff, you have to get your foot off the clutch,
with small throttle input and feed it throttle AFTER its engaged.
You can feed a bore scope in through the air vent on the passenger side of the bell housing
and look around for broken pieces , it's tight and all grey so not a great view without fiddling.